c/p - sorry if it's a bit of a repeat.
Well i've been busy.
90% of the time I have also been absolutely scared senseless, i'll explain - So I updated my ecu firmware last week to the latest version which now has an altered dwell time (no idea what that means but apparently it stops the ecu from burning out), I now have a revmeter, I now also have a coolant display, I also now have a fuel pump shut off once primed which is awesome as before it continued to pump on ignition.
That's all great, I did however had absolutely no fire up what so ever... I copied over the base map, my map from Chris @ efi and altered some settings thanks to the help from those who had the same ecu as me however it didn't fire at all. The ECU was sensing so RPM. I spoke with a guy at work who has the same ecu as me on his mx5 turbo and told me to play with the crank trigger setting, it can either decent the signal when its rising or falling. Mine was set to the wrong one after the update and luckily changing this to falling fixed it - it then fired up.
I was more relieved after this fix compared to the first fire when I fitted the engine, I think it was more because it's only a week before the re-map!
I brought a chair downstairs because I knew it was going to be a long night haha
I received a new track day helmet. Absolutely love it.
The next thing on the back of my mind was the brake cooling duct. I originally bought 100mm ducts but didn't want to run 100mm ducting purely because of the size of it. So with a 100-50mm reducer and some 50mm tubing it's all secure. I want to get a laser thermometer to see if it actually makes a difference, and consequently have a play with different sized deflector plates if it doesn't.
The next thing I did was install the emergency hammer and seatbelt cutter. I've opted for this place as it's very easy to reach when strapped in tight in the harnesses.
Started with my favourite invention, the riv nut
I made a better more secure false floor out of 2mm steel plate and some grip tape. It feels much better now compared to the fake carbon fibre abs plastic I had in there before.
I also wired in my N75 valve (boost control) properly, I was told that I could just wire in my carbon canister wiring to the boost solenoid and it would work, nope! Turns out you have to wire in a 12V feed to one side of the N75 valve whilst ONE wire from the carbon canister acts as a switched earth for boost control. It's a massive saving grace that I found this as it wouldn't have been working on my first mapping session...
Engine bay pics now it's all finished...
Edgy interior pic to finish
I'm buying some front discs and pads tomorrow (£250!! fml) ready for delivery in the week then fingers crossed i'm all pretty much ready for mapping mk2.
Ah so is it an extension of the I-drive type thing but with the whole shell moving rather than just a separate rotating component? Looked like the frame designers forgot to put somewhere to bolt cranks and just chucked that cnc lump on the bottom!
It's a floating linkage that acts when the shock linkage moves meaning that the cranks stay in the same (relative) place, which in turn means the chain doesn't have any funky tight/loose situations no matter where the shock is in it's stroke, or how much the effective chainstay length changes throughout that stroke. It's really quite a piece of design when you get to see and poke around it in the flesh. Pluuss the entire frame & s/arm is a massive tanky carbon MF, so y'know, that helps too...