Jump to content

DYAKOV

Members
  • Posts

    901
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    6

Everything posted by DYAKOV

  1. Could it have been a COSTAESTE video? Hmmm…
  2. Hi all, I can’t seem to find an old video I’ve seen ages and ages ago. It was something on the lines of “Monty Days 2006” or “Monty in Barcelona”… essentially a massive group ride with close to 100 people in it all riding Monty 221ti/pr (you know the shape), so it must have been 2004-2006 era... In the beginning they all lined up for a group photo (urban environment) then the scenery changed to rocks and natural riding. Or any other Monty videos worth watching excluding Gerardo Garcia and Marco Grosenick (I’ve seen them all). Cheers, Nas
  3. Ah there it is - trialtech 120x17 is the stem you want! Last time I checked on online shops I could only find the 130x25 geo but I was sure that there was a shorter one… might be an older model which is now discontinued or last stock here and there but you should be able to get one second hand. Think that’ll work well on your bike, also you might want to upgrade to jitsie or trialtech high rise bars to give you some leverage over the front.
  4. Love the Magellan Tucana! Yeah, you’ll notice that old school bikes from that era had pretty short and slammed stems, still I think a 100x20 might be way too short though. I’d say get a trialtech 130x25 or even a comas 130x20, you’ll like that much more paired with mid rise bars. Should be a happy medium between rolling moves and moves to front.
  5. I’ve got carthy levers on new shape magura pistons front and rear. I’d been using the setup for a full spring/summer/autumn seasons and when weather got cold in the winter last year my brakes started leaking from the lever pistons. I got in touch with trialtech to ask if changing to alu pistons would make things better. They advised not to because the lever body is made of a very soft alloy and the alu piston might scratch it. Their tip was to change all seals and a general service + use their fluid which would grease the whole system as well as won’t freeze/expand/get absorbed in the rubber/plastic components etc. Got new seals (the carthy setup incl a silicone seal and an o-ring) and bled with the trialtech fluid. Brakes stopped leaking for another spring/summer/autumn and last week during a ride the rear started leaking again so badly that every 15-20min my lever would bottom out completely and I kept topping up the fluid. Got home, changed the o-ring which btw looked brand spanking new - brake was still leaking. Removed the silicone seal and switched to a double o-ring setup - brake started running super slowly, not returning well and still leaking. Is it possible that the piston shrinks because of the weather? I mean it’s chilly but surely not that cold if we’re talking physics… has anybody else had the same issue? Should I just bite the bullet and switch to an alu piston instead (never had issues with alu pistons)? Anything else I might have not considered? Cheers, Nas
  6. I’m pretty sure that I’ve seen a video (possibly on daylimotion many moons ago and long lost) where the guy was riding a Frankenstein Monty 221ti with a rear shock. Not sure if the rider was generally good or the shock helped but he was riding massive stuff for the standards back then. The video must have been mid 2000, would be great if anyone could dig it up. Surely shocks have evolved a lot since then, would be interesting to see an integration of a lighter “mini shock”, just not sure how the frame would cope with side stress. Having said that, there are full sus BMX bikes already, so might be an option to explore. Nas
  7. On that note, I’m sure you all know that in Europe we do have couriers where as a sender/seller you would go and drop off your parcel in their office. It gets weighed, put in on the system and you can choose from the following: - send the parcel and pay for the shipping beforehand - send the parcel and buyer pays for the shipping upon receipt (delivery to the company’s office at the other end) - send a parcel and buyer pays whatever amount you’ve requested as a payment in order to be able to receive the parcel - send a parcel and request the buyer to send another parcel from their end travelling the opposite way. Once available for collection, the two parcels need to be reviewed by the respective receivers at the same time and if both happy, a quick call between the offices authorises the trade/swap - you can also select the option to let the receiver inspect the parcel before they decide to pay and receive it - since everything is dealt with by the courier and in their offices both sides are completely safe - or you can simply use the courier to collect from an address and to deliver to an address by paying for the service beforehand (as we do in the uk) And as a receiver you can: - review the item in your local courier office and decide that you’d like to return if the item arrives “not as described” or if you’d agreed on a price and all of a sudden the seller puts a higher amount for you to pay in order to receive Essentially the company combines PayPal/western union + a courier service but allows lots of flexibility for both sides and usually deliveries are overnight e.g. drop off parcel before 5pm to be available for collection at 9am the day after. Wish we had this type of a service here in the uk…. Cheers, Nas
  8. Just seeing this 3 years later… My name is Nas, I’m also based in Glasgow! I try to ride somewhat regularly - depending on weather and mostly in my back garden - I’m always on the lookout for other Glasgow riders to make friends with and organise some group rides, give me a message if you’re still into trials? N
  9. You can just make your own dude, there isn’t anything too complicated and you can play with the design (at your own risk, of course). I’ve made quite a few adapters and they’ve all worked pretty well. I’m sure you’ll figure out the dims but one tip from me is make sure you use a pillar drill! Are you based in the uk? I can post a piece of aluminium flat bar and bosses if that helps? Cheers, Nas
  10. I’ve been riding the “new geometry” bikes for the past 2-3 years and I still can’t get used to the geometry (more so on my 20”). I’ve tried a few different stem/bars combos including the following: clean pro stem 142x27 paired with trialtech high rise bars then clean high rise bars clean pro stem 164x27 paired with clean high rise bars clean forged 165x25 paired with clean high rise bars crewkerz 145x20 paired with crewkerz high rise bars tms 180x35 stem with jitsie 110 rise bars And none of these feel natural to me. I had a similar experience on my 26” until I tried comas 130x20 stem paired with clean low rise bars and instantly it felt so natural… Since I discovered that setup I’ve run it on 3 different frames and it never disappoints which leads me to the thought that despite variations in the frame geo a good front end setup will ultimately feel comfortable. Wish I could find a similar setup for my 20” but I don’t really know the “rule of thumb” when it comes to front end geometry, so it’s always a matter of trial and error. Can anyone point me in the right direction? I assume I can’t just run a 150x30 stem with mid rise bars as I would have done back in the day because the frame geometry of my maestro has nothing to do with frames from 10 years ago. Basically, my 26” feels a lot more stable and I feel like the centre of gravity is further back over the rear axle making it almost effortless to stay on a back wheel with my body straight up. Whereas my 20” feels like it’s pulling me forwards, so staying on rear wheel means slouching over the front and a constant effort to keep the bike up (think that’s probably more to do with the high bb). Not to mention that turning the bars forward feels disgusting on my wrists but with that amount of rise I can’t really have them pointing up unless I want that maestro to look like a bmx…. Any tips? Cheers, Nas
  11. I need some parts for my clean bb30 cranks and I was wondering if there are other (non-trials/more widely available) models cranks which have the same “accessories”? 1 - I need the larger outer dia spacer which slots in after the freewheel 2 - I need the 2 thin plastic spacers/washers 3 - I need extraction caps Alternatively, is there anyone who can machine these for me? I have another full set of cranks, so I can provide the original parts that I need duplicated… Cheers, Nas
  12. There was a 20” maestro selling on the forum some time ago. Worth finding the add and messaging the guy, hunk it might be still there.
  13. I remember that old BT Raven frames came with 1100wb but they seemed to be quite fragile.. Also adamant A2 had 1100wb and were solid as a trials frame can be but a bit on the heavy side (there’s currently a full adamant A2 selling on Facebook). They’d have a higher bb rise though. I can’t really think of a long trials frame with low bb…
  14. A guy on Facebook is selling a decent adamant 24” which would be the bridge between street and comp (similar to the 24” jitsie mentioned above) and is going quite cheap at £250 Ono…
  15. Also, they don’t have to be the carthy pistons, if you want to save a few quid the standard ones will work just fine (personally, I’d opt for the carthy ones cos otherwise you’re essentially running a standard trialtech lever setup)
  16. No alloy pistons on those levers. Even though there are ones that you can use, guys from trialtech recommended me to stick to the plastic ones (I’d enquired on that before). Best bet is to change the o-rings and see if that helps and if not, then just get a new set of pistons.
  17. Ok guys, to most of you this won’t seem like a big deal but I’m not a phones kind of a guy and I just got a new iPhone 13 pro max which I found to be quite expensive. Having had my old phone falling off the tripod cos of strong winds and getting dings to the display, I want to make sure I don’t get this one smashed in no time. Can anybody recommend a good heavy duty case they’ve used and happy with? I’m not too fussed about aesthetics as long as it’s bomb proof. Cheers, Nas
  18. For the sake of diy (I love diy) - do it! You’re very unlikely to achieve a precise positioning of the calliper against the rotor, so you might end up having to experiment with rotor sizes / washers etc but if you take your time in measuring the adapter before you go ahead with fabrication, I don’t see why it wouldn’t work. Of course, no matter how well you fix it to the 4 bolt mounts and the rear axle, it will develop some play, especially if the brake bites well. But hey ho, you wouldn’t expect it to work as well as an integrated brake mount anyway. Keep us posted on your progress and good luck! Needless to say - safety first! Nas
  19. Thanks Mark! I did go on the dpd website but I can’t seem to find my way around it. To start with, they have the dpd official website and a dpd local as well, not sure where to look. Somehow I got to a page where I saw different options e.g. economy, air class etc varying around £20 but the max size allowed was 60x60x60. Then I managed to find an option which was up to 135cm in length and up to 30kg which was great but once I selected that a pop up came up saying that this service isn’t available. I’m very confused with the dpd interface. I will have a look at the other couriers you’ve mentioned above. Parcelforce are giving me quotes of £200 and over…. Cheers, Nas
  20. So after brexit I’ve only received bikes and parts from Europe, never sent one. I’ve got a 20” bike packages up parcel dims: 100cm x 40cm x 50cm @ 10-12kg that I want to ship to France. Can anyone recommend a courier company which won’t cost an arm and a leg to ship? Thanks, Nas
  21. Ok, so I don’t know who the rider was, I don’t know what the bike was, I don’t know what the music was and I don’t know where it was filmed either - haha! All I vaguely remember are clips at a coastal site (possibly Spain) at sunset and a guy riding a bmx for trials (what appeared to me at the time, now thinking 20” megamo). The guy was pulling some decent manuals and 360s but I also remember him doing massive pedal kicks and side hops (maybe it wasn’t all filmed at that beach alley spot), it was very Gerardo Garcia like. I’ve watched this video around 2008-2009 and it was already pretty old, so only the OG’s would know it… Not much help in the description but hoping that someone would have the same flashbacks as me? Cheers, Nas
  22. I’ve got a tech 3 trial zone on the rear and I find it slightly spongy compared to magura brakes I’ve tried on friends’ bikes. I’ve tried tech 3 levers on other bikes and they all seem to be spongy, so it’s not a matter of bleeding or pads alignment. I was wondering if the trial zone levers which have a simpler design would feel better but I guess I’ll be looking for another tech 3 lever based on everyone’s feedback. Thanks, Nas
  23. On that note, is there any major difference between the tech 3 lever and the old trial zone lever? I’ve noticed that Benito Ros is still using a trial zone lever and I was wondering if that’s better suited for trials as opposed to the tech 3 which has been designed to be compatible with all types of callipers? I guess that the tech 3 has more options for modulation with the reach and biting point bolts. It’s also chunkier, so I assume that it has a bigger reservoir and a bigger piston, does that mean it’s more powerful as well? The blade seems shorter than the one on the trial zone lever. I don’t know any of the specifics and these are my observations, I might be wrong. I’m just asking cos I’ve been toying with the idea of building a front brake using the old trial zone lever and the new trial zone calliper but I don’t want to spend the money to only find out it doesn’t work.
  24. Right, so I might have had that happening on other bikes in the past and never really cared much but the older I get, the grumpier I am… So, I noticed that when I’m squeezing the rear brake the rim moves to one side. I don’t think that the frame is flexing and I’ve got a steel 2 bolt brake booster to stiffen it up. The slave cylinders seem to be at equal distances from the rim, pads are somewhat equally worn. Using echo washerless clamps, so unless the mounts aren’t super straight I don’t see why the rim would move. I can only explain that with one slave cylinder not being powerful enough, so the other one pushes stronger but I’ve recently bled the brake and I’m positive that there isn’t any air trapped in the system. Any thoughts or tips? Cheers, Nas
×
×
  • Create New...