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gage-mann last won the day on January 19 2017

gage-mann had the most liked content!

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About gage-mann

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  • Birthday 09/23/92

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  1. Single speed steed
  2. When you get a puncture pop one bead/side of the tyre off the rim fix or replace tube then when you put the bead back on make sure you can get most of it on without it catching against the grind then the last bit just pop it on like normal then use a light sand paper to take off any dirt/rubber, much easier than having to regrind the rim
  3. Can confirm slx is a good crank if you can get them to fit i did a 9ft drop at 17st and had 70psi
  4. I’d opt for a large tapered axle like the one in wellgo mg-1 pedals if you’re the paranoid type. I’ve snapped a echo cnc crank and still the wellgo pedals were fine not the best pedals if you are a big pedal basher though (magnesium alloy body’s)
  5. Get the sharpest pin you can and try not to put a big hole to drain the fluid, use a dab of super glue over the pin hole if you’re desperate to ride but keep you’re eye on it
  6. Best looking one I’ve seen good work
  7. Nah just looks like white water transfers Like the arcade bars
  8. Those decals will come off no problem
  9. Sacked off the fury for a intense have more trust in it
  10. Just got this GT fury last week absolute weapon
  11. I used to fly the holy roller tyres on a hex with a 35mm rim and a continental freeride tube at about 70psi, never punctured that and I ranged from 16-17stone over the 10 months i rode it
  12. That looks like the best mod/bmx to ride ever. Good job
  13. Just get the front wheel up and land pedal purposely makes attempting bigger sidehops easier for me at least.
  14. Modern comp bar angle too! Massively different than 10 years ago the old beast make you feel weak after riding something like this. I'd diss the stem pad but from past experiences thats a good shout especially with that bar angle. Looks a nice build
  15. Flappy pad with the grinder to create the slope after cutting the steerer tube flat and make sure to mark the steerer with the sloping stem, get the angle right then just take a couple of mm off each time you check until the topcap will do its job You can also have the steerer flush with the top of the stem slope and cut out where the top cap needs to sit to still tighten the headset but this takes a little longer to do