robkerly

chain lube may or may not work long term as some types are designed to go sticky to stay on a chain. pesonally would avoid just in case. silicone spray lube or silicone grease is safe on the rubber piston seal and wont turn to glue. fork seal grease is fine if you have some, but its expensive so dont buy it specially for your levers. best of luck. honk

i mucked about with this idea on my old zebdi. ended up with a 2x front set up, with a half bash ring and a fairly chinesium tensioner. chain slap is obviously more than on a singlespeed tenioner setup as it needs more chain. a better tensioner would probably help a lot. i also fabricobbled a front chain device, mostly because a dcd wont fit the square chainstays. hope the pictures help if anybody wants to try it.

If you have any stackers under your stem, worst case is if you find the rise too much, you can drop it down a bit.

I'd vote for the because. Got vague memories of the brake mount on the DOB being under the seatstay and being a ballache to set up. Until now i had repressed them!

yep the kool chain kmc 710 is pretty much as good as it gets in my opinion. the 610 claims to be the same strength, but without having one side built up for bmxers to grind on. just make sure you get one with the strong split link (3 pieces)

its an anodized coating. wont come off without a lot of sanding

still think of the 2005 on magura levers as 'the new shape' never liked em

HI Vanis. If you have 3/32 sprockets then a 3/32 chain will definitely be a better fit. I'd recommend a kmc 610 or 710 in the 3/32 width as they are pretty cheap and damn strong, far stronger than an average 8 speed chain. I happily run a split link, but only the type that has a second side plate and spring clip as i feel the quick springy snappy ones are far less tough.

nice job. looks ripe for some goofing. im fairly local to bristol. in summer i ride there most weeks so give me a shout if you want somebody to ride with / show you around

i agree with james, i've set bikes up to what im used to before, and ruined them just because it initially felt comfortable and 'normal'. I reckon now to try and treat each bike as a tool for its specific purpose, so my old xc bike is super long 90s geo. street bike is fairly short and really high, stock is as low and as long as i can get the front end and the new enduro bike is mid to long reach with a titchy stem. switching bikes only feels odd for a few seconds, and then just feels like home.

Awesome Andrew. Been watching your videos for years for inspiration. You make massive lines look effortless

No worries, its always nice to help out new people to the scene. i'm meeting some mates tomorrow evening in Bedminster, depending on whereabout in Brisol you are i could swing by before that, around 6. After that im away for a couple of weeks.

Hi Sammy. I happen to have a lonely drive side onza zoot crank arm. I'm in Bristol fairly frequently working or riding. Happy to jam it on for you one day when I'm around.

bikes flex a lot once you start looking at them! its when it doesnt flex back again thats the problem. worth having a look at the back side of the fork crown / bottom of the steerer tube to see if you have any stretch marks or cracks anyway as its just good practice.

Hey. welcome to trials. Good purchase. Bar and stem should make that feel pretty good for learning on. A couple of basics first might be to check that it has a good chain on it, and make sure its adjusted properly to stop it sagging like that. That will slow down the engagement when you push on the pedals. Half-link chains tend to stretch fairly quickly so a regular bmx chain is fine, or the kmc 610 and 710 are pretty damn good and reasonably priced. Some soft sticky v pads will help you out a lot too. The standard freewheel may not have many engagements, and arent really strong, so that could be a worthy upgrade down the line. lastly, check the cranks bolts before every ride. those older type square taper cranks can round off easily if they come a bit loose. thats it. have fun!

personally, yes, my feet hurt pretty quickly if i ride in a shoe with a thin flexible sole, like your average skate shoe. I tend to ride with a shoe with some more stiffness in it, like the specific trials shoes by monty or ribo. they tend to be pricey and wore out quite quickly. Current fabourite is the adidas terrex swift solos. very grippy sole with fairly small tread and have lasted over a year on some regularly sharpened pedals. you will probably find however, with a stiffer shoe comes less pedal grip, so having really grippy pedals is more important. hope that helps.

make sure its spotlessly clean. oil from the chain or tiny amounts of weepage from the brakes or even off the tyres if youve ridden across a damp road spreads everywhere. brake cleaner is good. personally i find meths and a clean rag is great on rims.

yep you can boil both the pads and the rotors. it does a pretty good job of lifting out oily residue. while they are out give the calipers a good clean. brake cleaner or meths on a rag work fine. the slx brake may come with a semi sintered pad designed to work under more heat and mud/water than a trials bike expects. my personal experience is that organic compound pads have the most bite from cold, therefore suiting trials better than sintered or kevlar compounds. i have used many of the cheaper after market pads in the past like AtoZ and superstar components and reckon the genuine shimano ones are better quality but give yours a thorough clean first and see how it goes

first up just make sure they are perfectly clean. boiling the rotors and pads will make sure they are as free from contaminates as possible. then make sure the calipers are set up perfectly square with the rotors. if a pad on one side is hitting first or if the pads are at an angle this will make a big difference. super anal levels of perfect alignment makes a noticeable difference. you can tell by pulling the brake lever on and off while looking really closely at the rotor, if it flexes to one side, or twists at all, it can be made better. If you get them running perfectly square and you still want more power, bigger rotors or softer pads are the solution. the brakes them selves have the potential to be plenty powerful. personally i find shimano brakes run best on shimano branded rotors, and I have had very good results from the trialtech branded after market pads

doesnt need to be that one specifically, im not even sure its in stock. i have previously found dmr singlespeed hubs on ebay cheap that have the same kind of fittings for sprocket and disc. also, there are now splined type ones which wouldnt be compatible with your current sprocket, and older tryall branded ones floating about that use a traditional shimano cassete type spline. either could work but you would need to use the right type of sprocket for them

you can convert to discs no matter what type of cranks you have but the type of parts you need will vary. the zoot comes standard with a front free wheel setup, where the ratchet is screwed onto the cranks, and a fixed sprocket on the rear hub. this is also screwed on. the hub width is 135mm for the rear and usually 32 spokes (count them) . the hub has a thread on one side to screw on the sprocket and you will need one that has this thread on one side and 6 disc mounting holes on the other side. as reference tartybikes sell a 'trialtech sport 135mm rear disc hub' the front hub can be any standard mountain bike front disc hub. a trials brand one will usually have bolts instead of a quick release skewer, which do hold the wheel in better. unfortunately the rear hubs are rather expensive, and may require a different length spoke when laced into your rims so be prepared for that extra cost. you may find it cheaper to buy a set of used wheels or even an entire bike which already has disc breaks and disc ready wheels to scavenge for parts

drain it, but make sure you use something clean. pin is fine but boil it first

ah, in that case either the bb cup isnt screwed in tight or the bb is worn. if you unscrewed it to fit that extra spacer, it maybe loose. if not, its the bearing in the bottom bracket, which are cartridge type and non adjustable. trials is pretty harsh on drivetrain components and they tend to get play fairly quickly. if you can put up with a bit of wobble, it will probably last that way for ages and ages, or you need a re[placement bb

can you explain better where this movement of 1 to 2mm is?

first things first, don't panic. most front free wheel setups seem to spin the cranks with the chain while you are pushing the bike. there is usually slightly more drag in the freewheel mechanism that the bottom bracket bearings. in time you might find the cranks sometimes spin and sometimes not, if they find a slightly tighter spot on the bb once it been used a bit. as for forks, look like neon judging by the logo, which looks factory rather than a sticker. somebody else on here might be able to tell you more. also, they could be a 24 or 26 inch fork as often they have a very similar axle to crown length (sometimes the 24 is actually longer) look tasty though