GavLawson

Do the pinch wheels have to be actuated regularly or is it just for wear compensation? The force increases in a solenoid to 100% at full stroke because as the plunger is drawn into the coil the number of turns increases. To get the force to be constant(ish) you need the plunger to have the same number of turns for 100% of the stroke. So the plunger needs to stay the same diameter and extend through the coil at both ends of the stroke. Providing the coil is sized correctly and the current in the coil and opposing force remains the same, it will stay in one position. you will need to be able to vary the current in the coil using a controller to move the plunger for adjustment. I would suggest you take the problem to a decent electrical engineering firm with a winders workshop, you will probably want them to wind the coil anyway. It’s a pig of a job!

The last Scottish independence referendum was an absolute farce. There were two main reasons to vote for an independent country either you hated the english or you hated the tories for cutting your benefit. In Aberdeen where I live, the arse has completely fallen out of oil. The north sea is simply not viable with oil under $50. People are losing jobs, defaulting on their mortgages and signing on. All the SNP can do is blame Westminster. The SNP are only interested in independence. I think the public is looking into the Scottish EU vote in the wrong way. In Scotland a nation known for being Pro-EU and Pro-Labour over 1 million people voted to leave. I was expecting something close to 90% remain. The last thing Scotland needs right now is more instability. Independence is not a solution. On a slightly different note. The Scottish referendum divided families, friends and co-workers. It was fought with passion from both sides. you simply couldn't get away from it for months. In Aberdeen at least the EU Ref was shit in comparison. Nobody cares here and the only thing that people seemed to know before the vote was that neither side could be trusted.

Sorry I was a bit harsh on your advice. I just dis like people dishing out electrical advice without thinking about the consequences. When it comes to DIY electrics. Like George says I make a lot of money out of repairing people's simple mistakes. A socket which would have cost you half an hours labour ends up costing you a couple hundred. If you want to work on your own house then that's up to you. But be aware that if you cause an electrical fire. It's classed as self inflicted damage and you have voided your home and contents insurance. b&q also sell boilers and gas fires but 99% of the public wouldn't try to diy install them.

I'm glad you got it fixed but i just wanted to say that /\/\/\ is pretty bad advice. Sockets are not all the same their terminals are in different positions so the photo idea is stupid. Switch all the power off? how do you know you've switched all the power off? Put whatever you want off but just prove its dead before you work on it. If the cores are brittle they should be replaced.

Series doubles the current through the same resistance coil. Series I=V/R =8.4/.05 = 168A Parallel I=V/R = 4.2/.05 =84A At 168A your batteries will last less than 3 minutes

As said above your best bet is a VSD/VFD just bear in mind you will need a larger supply to suit. You will also have to de-rate the VSD by at least 50% if you supply a 3ph VSD with single phase.

Don't go ripping out anything until you've had a sparky look at it. I'm a spark to trade and would say a lot of faults I have encountered look worse than they actually are. I just gave you a quick description on how to track the fault down I can give you a better one later when i've got time, but if you don't feel confident you should probably get someone out. I just re-read your post how do you know theres a short between earth and neutral? did you physically disconnect both the earth and neutral from the board before testing? on most UK/EU systems the N+E are actually combined at the incoming fuse.

I doubt the circuit is wired in series. Its probably a radial. The first thing to do is unplug everything and Isolate the circuit. Make sure all earths are connected. Then test at the board between l-e l-n n-e using a megger or ohmmeter. Half the circuit and repeat until you have narrowed down which cable is causing the problem.

A reciprocating saw would be my choice.

I would like to make it along to some of these dates but it'll depend when I'm offshore. Is there any paperwork/clubs to join or is it just entry a few weeks before? Cheers

A brand new iPhone locks to the first network sim you put in. You'll have to get EE to unlock it for you or jailbreak it. I don't think Apple will do it for you.

The black stuff is a potting compound used for heat dissipation as well as strength and anti vibration. From memory the top right corner of the board in the picture is closest to the terminals of the battery so it wouldn't surprise me if the heat generated when the battery shorted has damaged the transistors/melted the compound.

I know quite a few people who have taken their car back to the dealer at the end of the agreement and been charged fairly significant amounts for excessive wear. I also know a few people who have purchased the car at the end of the agreement which seems like a very expensive way to buy a new car. Personally PCP is not for me, but I can see the appeal of owning a fiat panda 4x4 and they are incredibly popular in european ski resort car parks.

Properly Soldered joints are not as prone to fatigue failure as badly crimped crimps are. Also fatigue failure usually occurs when a wire has been soldered into a cup or onto a terminal and not fixed properly/wicking has occurred. It doesn't usually happen on lap splices because of the flexibility of the rest of the wire. Crimps are also prone to corrosion,vibration, water wicking and can be pulled out. I'm all for crimping but use a ratchet crimper stagger the crimps and seal the joint with self amalgamating tape. Also never solder then crimp, it doesn't work.

A guy I used to work with tracked his evo 6 tommi mac, to be honest it was a total money pit. He spent the best part of 15k on it the sold it for 10k If it was my money I'd buy a ready prepped car. I suppose it depends if you want to build it or not.