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About Mr_Orange

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    Trials Newbie
  1. I you, i was thinking it's got to be something with this particular type of rim design. I wonder if this is a good or bad thing for the strength of the rim that tire pressure increase tension. Tension does seem to be the same throughout still. I'll stick with this for a few days and see if the noise goes away. Hopefully the ti would hold up for a bit. I usually only break spokes in the back, and I don't ride as hard as matt coplon or even some people with full ti wheels.
  2. So i looked this up and most people say spoke tension should decrease after inflation because the tire pushes the spokes inward towards the hub and that you should get the rim to the right tension uninflated. Mines did the exact opposite. Spokes got tighter after wheel inflation. First time i built it, i tensioned it to 80kg (max recommended for my rim). Trued it and then got it all to equal tensioned. Stressed the spokes a bunch. Rode it a few times. Nothing crazy. Wheel seemed fine. Then, after noticing the tension was actually tighter (about 15kg tigher, a quarter turn per spoke) when inflated, I decided to loosen each spoke by a quarter notch until spokes were down to the recommended 80kg when inflated. Stressed the spokes some more after that and rode for a bit After doing this 180, the spokes started to make popping/creaking noises and kept doing so. This wasn't the case after the first ride session. So should i have kept it at the previous tighter setting where it was at 80kg uninflated? Here's the thing though... I built a weird wheel with half titanium spokes on the inside and half steel spokes on the outside. I saw this Matt Coplon bike check:,46040/Matt-Coplon-and-His-Custom-Bike,130541/Karl-Poynter,55711 I've since been told this was a dumb/pointless idea... Too late, already bought/built everything. Is this what cause the spokes to get tighter after inflation though..? This was my first wheel build with a truing stand. I medium tensioned it, then lateral true, dishing, radial true, tensioned it, and then stressed it. Here's my parts: - Hashtagg front rim: - Jitsie race front hub - trialtech sport lite fork -Maxxis grifter tire Wheel seems fine other then the noise? Any suggestions?
  3. Is your bmx frame a spanish bb or mid? Do you know if the echo isis bb fits bmx mid bb frames?
  4. i might have to read a more thorough tutorial on wheel building before referring back to this thread. I didn't even know what stressing spokes is. My wheel build technique was pretty basic. I remember reading that you're supposed to grip the spokes with plastic pliers when you tighten the nipples. Do you start to check for twisting after you've gotten all the spokes pretty tight? Also, I'm going to re-build my rear wheel after i build this front one (without buying new spokes though). Does anyone ever undo all the nipples and reapply spoke prep to the threads? is that even necessary? Or should i just get all the spokes pretty loose and go from there?
  5. I've never used a dishing tool but I'm familiar with side to side truing on a frame. So it sounds like you have to go back and forth with the truing stand and dishing tool to make sure the side to side adjustments don't mess up the roundness and vice versa. My truing stand is a cheap one (spin doctor ii) and i heard the built in roundness/dishing gauge on those is not good. Which is why i bought the dishing gauge.
  6. I've built a 36h rim before with no measurement tools. Just trued it on my bike. Didn't come on so good though. Never was really that true or round. Now I've got a tension meter, dishing tool, and a truing stand and i'm building a 28h 3-cross pattern front wheel. 1) Is 3-cross on a 28 hole rim the same technique as on a 36h? Most tutorials show 32h or 36h for 20" wheels. 2) What is the proper tension value for this 28h wheel (i have a park tools tensionmeter)? I heard it also depends on the spoke type and rim (using USA double butted spokes: , and i have this rim: 3) What is the order in which i use the tools? I'm assuming first true it on the truing stand, then round it on dishing gauge, then tighten it to the right tension on the tensionmeter?
  7. Been watching videos of Flipp and noticed he bunnyhops twisting frontside too:
  8. That does kinda make sense. I'm all over the place when it comes to spinning. When i snowboard, my natural spinning direction is to the right, but I'm much more comfortable doing grabs that twist to the left. On a skateboard, i can 180 to the left much better than i can in my natural direction.
  9. I thought the twist was more for getting really tucked without the seat or back tire hitting your ass. Your explanation makes sense too though. So you're saying it's likely that people are just rotating towards their more natural spinning direction during a bunnyhop which tends to be towards their back foot? My comfortable way of spinning 180's is clockwise, towards my back foot, so it's strange that my body wants to twist counterclockwise at the height of a bunnyhop. btw, found image comparisons of what i'm talking about. I look like the 1st guy. Most people look like the second guy:
  10. Working on bunnyhopping higher. I noticed for all high bunny hops, when fully tucked at the top, the rider drops their ass down low towards the back foot side of the frame. The bike is also twisted 45 degrees. Like this (look up bunnyhop contest videos, they're all like this): For high side hops though, it's the opposite. The rider drops below the frame on their front foot side. Side hop: Is there a reason for this? I ride left foot forward and when i try to bunnyhop high, my body naturally drops below the frame on the front foot side and the bike turns 45 degrees to the left. So, I tuck more like a side hop when i bunnyhop, almost like my body wants to face perfectly forward. I've never even worked on this too, it's just what my body wants to do. Is this bad technique? My hops are progressing but very slowly so I'm wondering if this is holding me back. I can kinda twist it the other way, but it just feels way more unnatural and harder.
  11. Got it. you, when reading through threads, it seemed like most people say the higher BB is easier for trials stuff, but there were also a few people defending the lower bb too. Is there such a thing as short chainstay + very low bb? How that would feel like? I ran across this: It's a 26" bike with 13.6 chainstays. They did this by cutting a groove into the BB (you can see in the pics). Say you took that same style frame construction (with the BB cutout thing) and did a 24" wheel version. This means you can have a 24" bike with 12.6" chainstays (there are bmx frames this short and commonly used too). However, unlike a bmx frame which has BB rise, you give this a 20mm BB drop. So 24" tires, with 12.6" chainstays, and a 20mm BB drop. I wonder if the BB drop will give you the same extra leverage bunnyhop feel of a longer chainstay bike, while short chainstay gives you the benefit of a much shorter wheel base for spins.
  12. I only have vague glimpses into the trials world from just browsing videos online so please excuse my naivete. I definitely get the whole 'trials is more about being on the back wheel' thing though. And yes i get that BB rise refers to height above the imaginary line across the two wheel axles. Isn't there stuff though where guys are riding across really thin hand rails or thin train tracks. Doing 180s and landing back on the same thin rail. That's why i thought 2 wheel balance might've been equally important. Also, there's guys doing pretty much street bmx tricks on those 26" octane frames. It's not just a dirt jumping thing. So what's the deal with those Inspired frames. I guess it would be nice to have something where i can do street bmx type tricks along with trials stuff too. Is that what I'm looking for? Are there other companies like Inspired?
  13. I ride bmx bikes and the bb height range is from 11.5 inches to 11.8 inches off the ground, and people even have particular preferences between such a small spectrum. When looking at even just mod frames, it goes from +50 all the way to +90mm. And when you factor in the extra height of 24" and 26" wheels, it seemed like trial riders are on a huge range of bb heights. I was originally looking at 26" dirt jump bike frames like this, which has a bb rise of just 3mm. I assumed the reason the bb rise was so low was to take into account the extra wheel height, lowering you to a more tolerable elevation closer to where the bb's on bmx bikes or 24" bikes are. Then when i looked into 26" trial frames with bb's ranging from +10 to +70mm, it seemed like that all went out the window.
  14. So you're saying as long as your bars/stem is in an ideal position, that'll make all the difference in balance, despite being physically higher up? What if you really exaggerate this idea and made a bike with 60 inch wheels. Your saying as long as your bar/stem position is ideal, the lateral stability is really not going to be affected by you bb being that high up? Are you really not loosing any lateral stability by being higher up in terms of actual physics, or are you just saying that this 3 inch difference isn't so hard to get use to as long as your bars are in your comfortable ideal position; even though there actually is a slight loss in lateral stability.
  15. Do stock bikes feel like they have a very high bb? I'm mainly concerned with lateral (side to side) stability/balance. Tracking standing. Riding through narrow sections. A mod bike with a bb of +70mm is really placing you 70mm + 10 inches (from ground to axle center of a 20" wheel) off the ground right? But a stock bike frame with +70mm bb would be 70mm + 13 inches (from ground to axle center of a 26" wheel). Like this frame: That's an additional 3 inches right? So isn't that supposed feel like riding a mod with +146mm bb? Are stock's just way harder to balance side to side than mod bikes?