Bruiser1

Crosspost from OTN. Still rocking it after 4 years. I found a crack in the driveside seatstay/seattube weld last year at a comp, but I don't want to give up dual disc just yet. This is the strongest, most consistent, reliable, maintenance free braking I've had on my bikes. It. Just. Works. Always. Next frame I'll go back to rear V's, but I'll miss rear disc. Some part changes for this year, with lots of light stuff managed to get it at 19.6 lbs now. Went back to 16/14 gearing with a 16t echo Ti threaded cog, Breath CNC cranks, DT revo 15/16g spokes front and rear, and ti bolts. Trial zone 203mm rear rotor, and Ashima 97g front 180mm rotor. Had to use a half link and a KMC quick connect link to use 16/14 on this frame. Latest shot with some new parts. For whatever reason I couldn't get the rotors to work 100%, and with Raccoon Rally coming up I had to put my G3's on again. I'll give the light rotors another try after the comp, maybe there's too little pad contact area. More rainbow Ti bolts. Don't normally need a tensioner, the funbolts are more than strong enough on their own. But since I changed gearing, the axle sits further back and slips a bit into its old indentations. Snail cam takes care of that. Trying out caged pedals, super grippy. Echo TR with rockman cages, had to grind 3mm from each mounting post. Ti rotor bolts. Red alu bolts on the XTR levers and grip stops. Chainring bolts More rainbow Ti Will try for some clearer non-phone pics

First off, "Last visit Dec 22 2005", daaamn it's been a while. I pretty much had to ask this queston only here though. I'm getting that Tryall stem for stocks, and don't wanna get the usual boring flat bars so I got thinking about those onza carbon flats. What's the general opinion on them, are they strong/last a while? I pretty much have to get a bar with a lot of sweep, since I broke my wrist my Tryall bars are just painful. I'd love a set of the Onza risers, but they're still too flat for what I'm looking for. Oh and supercycles has the flat ones for like 35 gbp, which is about the same price if not cheaper than zoo/echo/bt/tryall on this side of the pond. What are they like in terms of shipping overseas, and getting orders sent out quickly? Any other shops carry these bars? Thanks

Yes, it will work fine. I've been running my XTR one like that for 2 years, and have had zero problems. However, I wouldn't want to run it with up tension. My chain is tight enough to allow it, but you'd have to have zipties or something pulling up on the derailleur, and that's not gonna allow for any flex when you hit the bash, or even just pedaling along, so it's gonna give you crappy, uneven tension. I run mine pushing down on the chain. OBVIOUSLY, you aren't gonna run the derailleur locked out like you would with a normal derailleur. There won't be any spring to tension the chain, and it's just gonna come loose on you all the time. It would be like running a Singulator locked out... To the ones that say they've had problems: what went wrong? I can't see any way for any problems to happen to mine, so maybe you guys had different setups, or tried to lock the derailleur out. I'll post pics of mine with my most recent setup, Kool chain and 16t rear cog. I'm running just the one cog, but back when I had 5, the barrel adjuster allowed me to shift between 4 cogs with 8sp spacing with no problems. Loved it for when it was time to ride long ways.

Echo's been busy with external bb's. Go to the echobikes site (and the other deng brands) if you missed the news. I think the most significant advantage is now the bearings are MUCH larger than on current ISIS bb's, so they're not gonna explode on you like they tend to do now. About the external cup issue, we'll just have to wait and see how they hold up to smacks. I know I do hit my bb shell everynow and then, but i guess it's nothing a piece of plexi glass and some heat can't protect (make a cool protector plate that follows the shape of the bb area.... or something). Plus you can't deny they look pimp, and come in every color. The gold one would look quite nice on my white levelboss.

Holy old topic! Glad to see people still like these mods though :closedeyes:. Everything is still holding up just fine. The XTR is going on 3 years now, and I've had no problems with it. Funny to see the XC'ers cringe when they see it chopped up and used singlespeed. I don't have use for the pad bodge anymore, Heatsink pads take care of that just fine. The 10mm batch B let me use a 521 in my levelboss frame, and now the 8mm Konigs do the same with a DX32. If I went back to a 521, I'd have to use the bodge again though, since the Heatsinks aren't 10mm anymore. I still have my pedals like that, and yes they are pretty painful when you grind your shins on them, but I wouldn't give up that no-slip no-shifting feeling for anything.

With a 185mm rotor, you can get an avid 160mm adapter and run that on the forx. Would be like having a rotor 2.5mm less in radius, so part the very top of the pad won't contact the rotor. It would work, if you absolutely have to ride asap, and manage to get your hands on one. Your local shop should have Hayes 6" front adapters, those do the trick just fine as well with a 185 or 190 rotor. Getting a 6" adapter and a 190mm rotor from hope sounds like probably the easiest to do, so go for that if you can. The mono trial rotors look real nice. Magura also makes 190mm rotors, which is what Koxx supplies their stock bikes with, but they don't look as nice as the mono trial rotors if you worry about that type of thing. You can also get a 8" setup, by using a rear 203mm adapter upside down, or a front 160mm adapter with a bunch of spacers.

Perfect slo-mo side shot of Vincent hooking a massive ledge during the Koxx days Paris ride. Vid inside: http://www.observedtrials.net/vb/showthread.php?t=13463

A bit different geometry on the frame, 40 mm bb rise. How nice are those powdercoated white rims, mmmmm.

Monty X-Hydra pads, 35mm long.

The front wheel isn't turned when you measured, is it? Flip the bike upside down, align the front wheel with the downtube, and measure axle to axle, centre to centre. Measure from both sides of the bike, it should be the same. Forks will change the wheelbase, some are longer than others, some have more or less rake than others, etc. Just to add, and I know this doesn't make that much of a difference, since front hub spacing is narrower than rear hub spacing, your measuring tape will read a longer distance it will be triangulated about 18mm. :turned:

The first rider is Marco Hösel.

Contact avid, tell them you're a 150 pound XC rider using 160mm rotors, just to be safe.

I've seen this happen to 2 other calipers, that snapped clean off, but only because the adapers had to be cut a whole lot to fit on Brisa forks. But you guys didn't have to do that for your forks, did you?

I use the coins as well. It does ruin them after one use, but whatever. Right now, I can take my cranks off without tools though, so it's all good. A bolt works perfectly as well, and won't get deformed like coins. The derailleur hanger bolt is perfect for this.

Use the tape. Duct tape is super strong and comes in lots of colors. It's wide, so you won't need to double it up for any rim. Electrical tape comes in lots of colors as well. Go once around the rim, sticky side up, and then another loop, sticky side down. Depending on the rim width, tape width, and hole size, you might need to do 2 loops of each. I've seen people use different colored tapes side by side, for a stripe effect, some with different colors in each hole, and some that use wood molding strips like what you find along the edges of bookshelves cabinets etc. Others use a loop of tape sticky side down, and sprinkle glitter in the rim holes from the outside, for a glittery finish. I guess you could smear honey in the holes on the tape, leave the rim outside overnight, and find a nice collection of ants, flies, and bugs stuck to it to impress kids with. I'm gonna try some 1" wide gift ribbon, with maybe some wide clear tape sticky side up first, and a loop of tape over everything at the end. The ribbons come in tons of metallic colors, so I figured I'd use it.