Guantanamo

Spoke Chain Tensioner

54 posts in this topic

If anything 18-14 with a stretched chain would set the wheel towards the back of the dropouts, 18-15 should go straight on without an issue.

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If anything 18-14 with a stretched chain would set the wheel towards the back of the dropouts, 18-15 should go straight on without an issue.

I'll try 18/15 again then even though I don't really like the ratio.

Edited by niconj

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What ratio have you been running previously as the chain seems fine in all the pics in your bike pics thread

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What ratio have you been running previously as the chain seems fine in all the pics in your bike pics thread

18/14 with a half link. Since this snapped a couple days ago, I'm reluctant to use a half link again.

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What chain?

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What chain?

KMC Z610HX with a single halflink.

Edited by niconj

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Slam the wheel in the dropouts, get the chain so it will almost join then add 1 link. Should be a perfect fit at that, if not get a pic up of how it looks.

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Slam the wheel in the dropouts, get the chain so it will almost join then add 1 link. Should be a perfect fit at that, if not get a pic up of how it looks.

That's what I did and it worked fine for 4 months. Then the halflink snapped and I kinda lost confidence in using them.

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I don't mean a halflink

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I don't mean a halflink

It is not a perfect fit. Not for 18/14 nor 18/15 even though 18/15 is the slightly better option. With 18/14 I can almost take the wheel out with the chain still on the cogs.

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Pic?

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Well, I don't have a picture right now as it works with the spoke tensioner. But as you can see in the picture above, the chain is fairly long and you can imagine how far I can pull the wheel w/o the spoke tensioner.

For 18/15 it was like this with a new chain:

12088392195_c153b85da1_z.jpg
Because 2 von niconj auf Flickr
Now while it was alright with the hope bolt (didn't have to use the snail cams) it isn't with the Echo hub where the M6 doesn't provide enough clamping force to hold the hub in place even with serrated washers. With the Trialtech steel snail cams it works but they are too small if I want to use a 15T w/o a halflink as it is too far out for the snail cam to reach the cam bolt.

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Is there enough meat and clearance of the chainstays to file the dropout further in?

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Can you measure the distance from the centre of the BB to the centre of the axle with it as it is currently?

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Is there enough meat and clearance of the chainstays to file the dropout further in?

There is but moving the wheel further in would leave the magura pads standing over the rim quite a bit. They already do in their highest position with the wheel all the way in the dropouts.

Edited by niconj

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There is but moving the wheel further in would leave the magura pads standing over the rim quite a bit. They already do in their highest position with the wheel all the way in the dropouts.

you can get brake clamps like the try-all ones, that give you further adjustment over standard magura clamps?

Also, are the serated washers ali or steel?

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They are aluminum and I can't find any steel ones.

I have the Echo Clamps and with the wheel all the way in the dropouts there's at least 3mm overlap. I don't think that any clamps give that much more adjustment.

I have one option though. I will take out the snail cam bolt and use a grub screw instead. That might give me enough space to use the 74Kingz as the snail cam bolts are in its way now.

Next step is to become a basher and wreck the frame to justify buying a new one.

Edited by niconj

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They are aluminum and I can't find any steel ones.

I have the Echo Clamps and with the wheel all the way in the dropouts there's at least 3mm overlap. I don't think that any clamps give that much more adjustment.

I have one option though. I will take out the snail cam bolt and use a grub screw instead. That might give me enough space to use the 74Kingz as the snail cam bolts are in its way now.

Next step is to become a basher and wreck the frame to justify buying a new one.

The try-all clamps have 3mm more adjustment than usual ones ;)

However, the grub screw idea is properly the best idea, and mount the tensioner inbetween the hub and snail cam

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Did you say you have an Echo TR hub? If so then what you need is one of these

8877237_orig.jpg

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Did you say you have an Echo TR hub? If so then what you need is one of these

8877237_orig.jpg

Yes. I do have an Echo TR Hub. Where do I get one of these? And how would I mount it on my horizontal dropouts. I would also get rid of my snailcam won't I. Right now the hub is modified to fit the snail cam inside the frame.

It is alloy as well isn't it?

Edited by niconj

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Yes. I do have an Echo TR Hub. Where do I get one of these?

It is alloy as well isn't it?

Alloy main body with a small, serrated steel ring on the underside. This allows the washer to really bite into the dropout, helping keep the wheel in place more effectively than a smooth faced axle bolt washer.

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Gladly swap my black ones for some echos ;)

Serious? I got new Echos.

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Are you up for a swap?... because fukyeah (Y)

Edited by *gentlydoesit

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