Rob Leech Posted October 28, 2011 Report Share Posted October 28, 2011 How do all, found a few topics where people have asked how they can do this, just so happens that i had one in today so i thought i'd make a guide to it . This is probably something that not many people on here can do, but if you know the details, its a lot easier to explain to a machinist/welder. Right, what we started with- Uploaded with ImageShack.us Pretty standard set of pashleys, steerer just under 190mm, the man (Mr Hopps) wants a higher bar and stem, but is not too sure on how much higher, so, to get started, we need to think about measurements of diameters and lengths- Uploaded with ImageShack.us As shown, pretyy straight forward, you want the extension the same diameter as the steerer at one end and slightly larger than the internal diameter on the other ( about 0.1mm to achieve an interference fit, which is needed to keep the extension square to the fork). Seeing as I didnt have a specific length, I made it to a round 100mm. Next is to bore the extending side out to the same dia. as the steerer- Uploaded with ImageShack.us I would recommend leaving around 5-10mm before the internal section undrilled, or with a smaller drill put through both sides ( I've done 10mm here, just incase he needs to take the extension off, having a center helps ) Uploaded with ImageShack.us When the section has been machined and fits nicely, its time to set up for welding- Uploaded with ImageShack.us I leave a 2-3mm gap between the steerer and the extension to help increase the weld area on the extension and to help get a flatter weld. Also note the chamfers around both the steerer and the extension, again, these help the weld sit flatter in the joint. Weld fully round the joint, running over it a second time to ensure penetration. If you wanted to, you could also drill the steerer where the bottom of the extension sits and add a couple of plug welds, but this isn't really neccessary as we have a good amount of internal material already. Uploaded with ImageShack.us Once this is done, clean the weld off with a file/sander/whatever you've got to hand and smooth into the steerer- Uploaded with ImageShack.us You can just about see the weld, a gold band running round the steerer, as i used stainless wire due to the steerer being cromoloy. And after a bit of sanding and spraying, the finished product- Uploaded with ImageShack.us Hope this was helpful to someone I've also just got quite a difficult frame repair in for myself, was thinking of doing a guide to that, heres a sneak peak- Uploaded with ImageShack.us Anyone want to see that? Any questions, pop them up, will be happy to answer . Cheers, Josh. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew_Gibson Posted October 28, 2011 Report Share Posted October 28, 2011 Nice one fella. You can't tell its been done! You can do alloy too right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Leech Posted October 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2011 Nice one fella. You can't tell its been done! You can do alloy too right? I cant remeber doing an ally one, i could do, but i wouldnt recommend it as a solution as it could only last 20mins, or 20 months, you just dont know with re-welded ally products in this game . Cheers, Josh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dann2707 Posted October 28, 2011 Report Share Posted October 28, 2011 Nice work Josh. Would love to see the Frame repair Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luke Rainbird Posted October 28, 2011 Report Share Posted October 28, 2011 Top-notch repair dude, really high quality work as usual Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
err Posted October 28, 2011 Report Share Posted October 28, 2011 weird, i was just thinking of doing this (although i can't weld for toffee)! some nice work there, as above it would be cool to see the frame repair too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndrewEH1 Posted October 28, 2011 Report Share Posted October 28, 2011 Great guide, even though I'll never be able to do it myself. You should definitely document any more repairs that you do, it's great to read and understand the process. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD™ Posted October 28, 2011 Report Share Posted October 28, 2011 Obvious question: How much would you charge for this service, given the forks were provided and postage both ways taken care of? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Leech Posted October 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2011 Obvious question: How much would you charge for this service, given the forks were provided and postage both ways taken care of? I'd say 10 bob, this one took me (minus smoking time oh, and painting) about half an hour, so the cost is basically just the material . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD™ Posted October 28, 2011 Report Share Posted October 28, 2011 I'd say 10 bob, this one took me (minus smoking time oh, and painting) about half an hour, so the cost is basically just the material . I know it'd be easier to take it to someone local who could do exactly the same thing, but for some reason I'd prefer the thought of someone who knew trials to do it... Could definitely entertain the thought of getting you to do a couple of sets for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Leech Posted October 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2011 I know it'd be easier to take it to someone local who could do exactly the same thing, but for some reason I'd prefer the thought of someone who knew trials to do it... Could definitely entertain the thought of getting you to do a couple of sets for me. No problem, pop me a pm if you need them doing . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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