forteh Posted February 11, 2016 Report Share Posted February 11, 2016 New rings and no metal in the oil after first run? You need to drive the tits off it for the first 10 miles once it's warmed up otherwise you don't get good ring seal. Unfortunately it's likely you've lost the window of opportunity to get a really good ring/bore seal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamKidney Posted February 11, 2016 Report Share Posted February 11, 2016 31 minutes ago, forteh said: New rings and no metal in the oil after first run? You need to drive the tits off it for the first 10 miles once it's warmed up otherwise you don't get good ring seal. Unfortunately it's likely you've lost the window of opportunity to get a really good ring/bore seal The first drop was undriven mate, I just wanted whatever shit may be in there out before it got put under load. Its being driven well with some proper load being put under it. Seem to be doing the job as theres little to zero smoke! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted February 11, 2016 Report Share Posted February 11, 2016 Once it's warmed up and cooled it's too late though, I bet the bores have already started glazing and you've taken the peaks off the honing Need the best quality mineral oil you can afford, warm up to ensure it isn't going to sieze and then drive it really hard for 5-10 miles, dump the oil and run normally from then on. You might have got away with it but it really needs to be done on first startup of the motor. I used the thrash method to bed in the new piston/bore on the supermoto and whilst it was scary as f**k doing that to 400 quids worth of piston and bore it worked perfectly. 1500 miles later after a tear down there was zero burn past the rings and compression was noticeably higher than previous. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skoze Posted February 12, 2016 Report Share Posted February 12, 2016 Very interesting to hear that, been pondering the best way to run things in recently and it seems each side of the argument views it with equal passion! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted February 12, 2016 Report Share Posted February 12, 2016 Ever seen a new race bike broken in slowly? Do they f**k, warm up, thrash hard, drop oil, race Another one from mototune usa 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted February 12, 2016 Report Share Posted February 12, 2016 Hard running in, definitely. Fresh bottom end on my MX-5 race car (freshly honed bores, new rings, new bearings, oil pump, etc), pushed it onto the trailer, pushed it onto the dyno, warmed it up, was on the limiter within 5 mins. Great compression, didn't use a single drop of oil all season (previous engine did about 100ml a race). As Ed says, that first few minutes is crucial, you need pressure from one side (high throttle openings) and vacuum (over-run from high rpm) from the other to seat the rings properly. And you need 'not good' oil (mineral) with the right additives (specific running in oil) to help with this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamKidney Posted February 12, 2016 Report Share Posted February 12, 2016 (edited) It's running mineral now. It has been driven hard for a good while, I went out again last night for a few more blasts. Things seem good, oil level hasn't dropped and no smoke under hard acceleration or after putting my foot down again after coming off the throttle. Feels very very heathy. Even compression across all four cylinders at oem spec too, so I'm confident it's doing the trick Edited February 12, 2016 by SamKidney 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartMini Posted February 12, 2016 Report Share Posted February 12, 2016 20 minutes ago, forteh said: Ever seen a new race bike broken in slowly? Do they f**k, warm up, thrash hard, drop oil, race Another one from mototune usa Saw a link from this on Prawns asn thread. Hard running in always seems counter-intuitive, but it makes sense how it beds the piston rings in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skoze Posted February 12, 2016 Report Share Posted February 12, 2016 Yeah, thinking about it mechanically it does make perfect sense... So in your books it's literally just fire it up, give it a few minutes to warm up and make sure it's running ok (cue screwdrivers on the carb) then give it some beans and a bit of wincing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted February 12, 2016 Report Share Posted February 12, 2016 Pretty much - but don't let the engine maintain constant speed at any point. This is what glazes it over. You need the stages of pressure / vacuum. By the time water temp is up to ~90, oil should be at least 40-50deg, and that's warm enough to start building the revs and throttle openings to maximum. If something is wrong it'll be damaged by running the engine anyway, and you'll hear it easily... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jolfa Posted February 12, 2016 Report Share Posted February 12, 2016 (edited) Just sold probably the best car I've ever owned, so here are the most stereotypical backpacker shots I have available to commiserate! Edited February 12, 2016 by Jolfa 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Booth Posted February 12, 2016 Report Share Posted February 12, 2016 When I broke my turbo motor in on the Mini I drove hard throughout the gears, then back down the gears hard just up and down. Never ever had an oil pressure problem and last time it ran had good solid even compression. I miss that little thing need to rebuild it soon. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skoze Posted February 12, 2016 Report Share Posted February 12, 2016 Sounds pretty unanimous between you guys then! Picked up one of my heads today which had some valve guide worked finished off. With no car though, transport's not easy right now. The guy found it so funny i'd come on my bike that he didn't charge me anything. 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurtisRider Posted February 13, 2016 Report Share Posted February 13, 2016 Ha ha nice one! I just fitted some 25mm spacers out back, there's very little space between the tyre and arch so I'm happy with that. It now means the rear doesn't look so tucked and matches the front which has a pretty small tyre to arch gap as standard. Porsche offered 20mm spacers as an option on these cars but finding the genuine ones is near on impossible but at least it should mean that the car will gain from them being fitted as Porsche don't tend to offer performance upgrades that don't actually aid performance! I need some new tyres upfront, I kind of want new wheels but can't justify them quite yet. I'm sure some will come along for a bargain price once I buy new tyres... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamKidney Posted February 13, 2016 Report Share Posted February 13, 2016 Engine is running beautifully. Got the timing light out for the first time in 4 years and got my distributor timing bang on this morning. Pulls nice and smoothly all the way up the Rev range now. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark W Posted February 14, 2016 Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 So today started off with this: ...at Three Sisters in Wigan, then, thanks to this... ...ended up being another 300 mile round trip down and into Snowdonia again: But this time coming in from the north and taking in the Horseshoe Pass and the B4391 which is a f**king incredible road which features pretty nice scenery and roads like this... The road itself is amazing. Mile after mile of all different types of corner, undulations, bumps, etc. Once you follow that road on into those hills in the distance, you end up seeing roads like this too: ...and once you get to the very heart of them, you look down from the summit and see roads like this snaking off into the distance: Which end up being really fast sweepy, twisty turny roads like this: So yeah, pretty f**king good. Cars are fun. 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurtisRider Posted February 14, 2016 Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 I'm going to look at some steel wheels tonight, I want to be able to run some better tyres on the Porsche and don't have enough for decent alloys so i'm hoping some french steels will look alright and allow me to run something stickier Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bing Posted February 14, 2016 Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 On 12 February 2016 at 9:54 AM, forteh said: Ever seen a new race bike broken in slowly? Do they f**k, warm up, thrash hard, drop oil, race Another one from mototune usa This. Always ran the tz in like this, warm it up to 60 deg and thrash the f**k out of it. Pistons only last 300 miles on them anyway so you have to ride it like that. Never did it any harm, like the man says, you'd hear if something was wrong anyway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurtisRider Posted February 14, 2016 Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 Woop, just found 2 separate sellers with the wheels I want at a good price. Most seem to want silly amounts for steel wheels and knackered tyres, £100+ for a set... I'd been strugling for ages to find wheels and just gave up but this morning I found some adverts that looked promising I am collecting 4 wheels from one seller with 2x5mm Paradas on and the other 2 are bare and then 2 wheels off another seller with 5mm T1Rs on. These tyres will be a significant improvement over what I have now and for £40 for 6 wheels and 4 tyres it's a saving over buying 2 new tyres that won't grip for my stock wheels. The hardest decision is deciding what colour to go for, do I stay with black or do I go with the same gold I used on my Porsche wheels? I think gold centres and silver lips could look quite nice 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurtisRider Posted February 14, 2016 Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 Collected and quickly fitted to see how they look. My dilemma is they need to be 20mm larger in diameter to be the same overall height as my standard wheel/tyre combo as I'm not sure if they look quite right currently although changing size makes tyre choices worse/more expensive from a quick look. Standard wheels Steel vs alloy Black vs silver All black Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD™ Posted February 14, 2016 Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 All I can say is definitely not black. In my opinion it makes them look like spare wheels. I'm not sure what I'd go with... The silver looks like it might as well be body coloured in that photo, so that could be an option. Maybe white with a polished lip? Either way, if you get the colour right I think they'll look much better Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurtisRider Posted February 14, 2016 Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 Yeah the black and the silver doesn't work, but that's just how they came. I still really like the gold so I think gold centres with either a silver, white or black lip would look pretty cool? They won't be staying on the car long term, it's just a way of me being able to run some decent rubber without breaking the bank! I quite like the look of Weller wheels so may get some of them at some point Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
george_seamons Posted February 17, 2016 Report Share Posted February 17, 2016 A little update, not much to show really though. I'm at the mocking up stage for the turbo/inlet/turbo intake. The standard PD130 setup looks like this, with the turbo intake pipe pointing to the right, and the inlet manifold pointing to the left. This then runs down the engine and into the side mounted intercooler in the drivers side of the front bumper, then back into the turbo cold side outlet via the wheel arch (ignore the arrow, its just a random picture stolen off google): Looks ok-ish as stock, but the pipework is a bit restrictive, and the side mount intercooler is rubbish. When the majority of people fit front mount intercoolers to the diesel engines, you end up with a mass of pipework in the engine bay, which looks awful: The plan is to use a Passat PD130 inlet manifold, which faces to the right rather than the left, which should create a much better pipework route, which should look something like this: So, I ordered the inlet manifold, and the alloy turbo intake pipe (the original one for the PD115 engine which the Golf originally came with). Then set about remove the old setup, and fitting the new. Bolted the inlet manifold on, all matches up a treat. Went to bolt the turbo intake pipe on...bugger...it fouls the intake. The PCV take off hits the inlet, and the way the end of the pipe curls round means it will hit the pipe that attaches to the inlet manifold : My plan was to chop the pipe up at the welded join, and adjust it there, like so: So I set about doing that. It turns out with a silicone joiner, the pipe can be twisted and extended by about 2 inches to be in the correct position (shown here with the pipe off the inlet manifold temporarily cable tied in position). Just need to extend the pipework for the PCV valve between the rocker cover in turbo intake pipe: Also bolted up the gearbox to check the clearance between the turbo and the transfer box, its reeeeeally close: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jolfa Posted February 17, 2016 Report Share Posted February 17, 2016 I accidentally an unroadworthy Audi URS4 Avant, with a shot clutch and a smashed window, in Glasgow 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dann2707 Posted February 17, 2016 Report Share Posted February 17, 2016 But you're in South Africa? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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