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The Car Thread


MadManMike

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21 hours ago, LiamWood! said:

CDS tube or T45 for the cage. Custom cages will do a complete cage all pre-bent for you that you just weld together yourself. When I looked at one for my EK9 it was around £500. 

 

In other news, I've replaced my daily. I now own 2 civic type R's, one an Ek9 the other is an Fn2. 


You bought Lees? Just curious haha. Heard about your window... Accord or the 9? 

 

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32 minutes ago, SamKidney said:

Bastards. 

FN2s are cool though. If I had the pennies I'd love one to daily. 

Yeah they are c**ts, they didn't even steal anything because there wasn't anything in the car. Just chancers. 

Fn2 is lovely though, it's the GT spec one too. 

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32 minutes ago, LiamWood! said:

Yeah they are c**ts, they didn't even steal anything because there wasn't anything in the car. Just chancers. 

Fn2 is lovely though, it's the GT spec one too. 

I wasnt keen on them until I'd driven one... 
They have a completely different feel to any other Civic I've driven. Far more in the way of creature comforts/luxuries, I like them. 

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Mixed evening. 

Had planned to get some mounts made up for the S2000 radiator, get the fan wired in and ultimately get it up to running temp to make sure everything that should be working is. 
That didnt happen, not quite as Id planned anyway. The radiator leaks :( 

Bodged a 1.4 radiator on as I wanted it up to temp anyway to make sure the gauge works, and more importantly that it vtecs. It does :P
Ordered a K-Tuned radiator/hose/fan kit now to the tune of almost £360.00 instead - money I didnt want to spend but I guess its a bolt on option and I know it will be sound. 

All my wiring is now neatly wrapped up and tucked away too. Ordered my track rod ends and two new CV joints as the threads on one are questionable and Id rather not risk my wheel bearing shitting itself if it lets go. iPhone should be back with me over the weekend so many, many photos to come. 

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Sounds good. Get some proper pictures up ;)

In hypocritical news:

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Chap a few miles from home is breaking an LCR and whilst most of the desirable parts (Brembos, FMIC, exhaust etc) have gone, the engine, box and a few other little bits are still in it as the guy's pretty clueless and doesn't really know where to start. His parents (who's house the car is at) want the car gone in the next week, so it's off to the scrappy shortly and he's offered me anything I want for free provided I take it out myself. Bingo.

Box will be handy to drop an LSD into down the line, making for an easy swap across with the current one. Engine can be cleaned up and stored for a while until either myself or someone else needs one for some reason (likely to be when mine goes bang having overlooked something on the new build!). DMF might be required on Soph's pd130 in the near future, so that'll save a bit of cash too, potentially. Steering rack is still in the car too, so I'll grab that while I'm at it as a friend with a Golf could do with one.

Popped up briefly this evening to make a start on prep for getting it out. Unfortunately it was pitch black on arrival (photo above) and I only had a small LED inspection light to work with, but the front end is off the car, everything is disconnected from the front/top of the engine/box and so there are only a couple more bits to go at the rear prior to whipping it out, so to speak. Winner.

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Such a good photo Dan! 


Im having a quiet afternoon here at work so I thought I'd stick the green machine up on the ramp after not really paying it much attention.

So far it requires - 

- Both track rod ends (One has play, one has a split boot)
- N/S track rod 
- 3 CV boots 
- Rear brake cylinder 
- Clutch slave cylinder is leaking 
- O/S brake calliper seems to be sticking slightly (Again) 
- Metal. 

Ive found some holes but fortunately the outer rear arches appear to have escaped corrosion with only the inner arches being affected. 
Thats this weekends task now!  

It could do with a service really as Ive not changed any oils or filters since I bought it but it'll be reyt. 

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IMG_20161217_125928.jpgIMG_20161217_125918.jpg

 

So water is getting under my passanger seat, so have done the normal by checking the little plastic gromits near the rear lights, and clearing out the scuttle panel and all the crud that was in the arch liners. To no avail. 

Also it's not the heater matrix. 
And its only on the passanger side. 

I've checked the rear washer line, and it's bone dry so water can't be running down that. 

All the water is sitting under the passanger seat and foot well. The sound deadening sponge is sodden. 

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I did but was curious to what people had to say on here, I believe I've tracked it down the the rubber grommet that goes In to the firewall for the rear washer tube. 

Cut the fanny out and sealanted over the hole. It's drying, will know for sure tomorrow! 

 

Good excuse to get the carpets out I suppose and get it stripped! 

 

Got anything left for sale Dan? 

Edited by TROYston
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Day two stalemate. 

Car still lets water in 
Shitty wiper puller f**ked the threads on the passanger side of the wiper assembly 
The washer bottle now pisses all fluids out of itself within a minute or two from full. Despite pushing the pumps all the way in. 
 

I f**king hate this French sack of shit. 

Should I just go down the route of drilling  a hole in the floor? 

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7 hours ago, TROYston said:

Day two stalemate. 

Car still lets water in 
Shitty wiper puller f**ked the threads on the passanger side of the wiper assembly 
The washer bottle now pisses all fluids out of itself within a minute or two from full. Despite pushing the pumps all the way in. 
 

I f**king hate this French sack of shit. 

Should I just go down the route of drilling  a hole in the floor? 

Not to be patriotic to the French but the wiper puller isn't its fault haha. SSame with the washer bottle. Must have a dodgy seal that's got a nick taken out or something 

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I've given my Astra to my girlfriend as she's doing 60miles a day and I wasn't happy about her doing it in her KA. This leaves me with just the Porsche which isn't a problem apart from when I need to shift larger items. I still have my T25 and so I got it out of the shed it's been stuffed into and it started a treat :) the clutch slave is knackered but a quick bleed made it useable enough for moving the old thing. I pressure washed it and also got it on the ramps to clean underneath. It isn't nearly as bad as I had anticipated which is a huge relief! I have some of the panels already but need to order a few more. The rest of it seems in reasonable condition, so I will get enough done to get it roadworthy and do jobs as and when they need to be done. 

Due to it being sat for a good 10 years in total (just moved every so often) there are obviously a few things I need to do to ensure the engine and gearbox are happy. So far I have the following:

Change the oil and all the filters, I'll leave things like plugs until it's on the road as they seem ok currently. Is it a good idea to replace the oil again after a few miles seeing as it has sat for a bit? I'm not sure if that may cause any sludge build up

Flush the radiator with cleaner and replace coolant (I have a new waterpump to fit too)

Replace the slave cylinder and then bleed clutch and brakes with fresh oil.

Is there anything else I have missed? I guess replacing the gearbox oil might be a good plan before it is on the road too, I'll also go over the typical mechanical parts that need to be checked for MOT.

 

Also regarding rust and MOTs. I want to make sure it is safe before I go on the road, so i'll attack anything structural of course. There are several body panels that are either VERY rusty or have jaggered edges but are not detrimental to the safety of the truck. If I get desperate to get it on the road before these are done, can they simply be covered with gaffa tape like the PO did? That way I don't need to rush sorting those areas unnecessarily.

 

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40 minutes ago, CurtisRider said:

Also regarding rust and MOTs. I want to make sure it is safe before I go on the road, so i'll attack anything structural of course. There are several body panels that are either VERY rusty or have jaggered edges but are not detrimental to the safety of the truck. If I get desperate to get it on the road before these are done, can they simply be covered with gaffa tape like the PO did? That way I don't need to rush sorting those areas unnecessarily.

 

Rust within a certain distance (think its generally 6 inches) of structal point need to be welded , ifs things like wheel arches, then you can tape them (no sharp edges for people to cut their hands on) (Y)

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