The Car Thread

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Cracking stuff chaps. Robin, forgive me if you've said already but what tubing did you use in the end? Did you go with something FIA/MSA compliant? I know you're not looking to race it, but lots of people seem to use them as an acceptable standard set of guidelines


Long time no update, because long time no progress.

Having got the engine in the car a couple of months ago, then had to pull the box to replace ridiculous slave failure, then put it back together again and had more problems I’ve not really touched the car recently other than a couple of very minor bits of tidying up. Despite shimming the box and taking up some play, I still had a nasty drivetrain noise but without being 100% sure of the cause was reluctant to pull things apart again just yet until I had things a little more figured out in my mind.

It’s a slow day at work today, so I’m working my way through photos since the last update and here’s what’s been going down.

Replacement n75 arrived. Used, but known to be working fine, came with OE hoses (mine were previously random, not that it should matter) and more importantly wasn’t snapped.


It’s possible to fit these in situ, but super awkward so I figured it best to pull the blower out of the car to swap it across. Also meant I was able to get in and remove a snapped stud in my adapter plate


While things were apart, I also took the opportunity to triple check timing on the engine. I was confident that these were all ok, but given the nasty sounds it was all making I wanted to do so yet again for peace of mind. If timing was out, it’d be time to stick a camera down the bores and check for contact…

Fortunately, timing was all spot on.


I also fitted a set of cam caps from my AMK as the AYP didn’t come with any. Minor detail and for general use shouldn’t make any difference, but I don’t fancy oil exiting the breather above under heavier use.


I also dropped the sump at this point. I’d done 2 changes since the new engine went in, and the oil was in pretty decent shape but given all the crud that’d been flushed through since install, I wanted to pop a new pickup pipe in. Seemed as good an excuse as any to check there were no nasty surprises at the bottom end.




In keeping with the theme of the forum, I even did some work on the Golf. Soph kept having a warning on the dash that her boot was open, accompanied by an irritating chime. Quick shortlist in my head was either a break in the wiring at the boot hinge, hose popping off or a faulty microswitch. One quick spray of the rear wiper showed spluttery flow and resulted in a few drips at the boot catch, so it was pretty obvious which of these had caused it. Popped the trim off and 5 minutes later we were good to go again.


Turbo was still off the car as I was lazy. Eventually got around to fitting the new n75, and while it was out figured it’d be rude not to pop an anti-surge compressor wheel inside.

Old vs new, and ready to refit. Minor upgrade but should help keep things smooth when mapping.



I’ve refitted the valve cover breather connection to the turbo inlet. Although there’s no breather in the same location on the valve cover for the 1.8t as the TFSI, it provides a convenient spot to route my catch can into when I finally get it fitted (still not done, need to get on it. I’m using an old stock head and the stem seals are pretty bad!). It’s also a nice aluminium bellow style, which makes for easy adjustment to position, so I’ll likely run the hose along with the TIP, although I’ve not decided on can location yet.


Talking of the can, it’s just a cheap Chinese one I picked up for a couple of quid. May swap out for a “proper” setup down the line, but this’ll do in the meantime. Didn’t want the cheap, leak-happy sight tube, so I tapped the ports to M10 and JB Welded a bolt in place, then cut the bolt down so it’s a little more flush. Before I fit this, I’ll properly flush the existing bulges and give it a lick of paint. Stuffed some stainless scourers inside to act as a baffle.



Back under the bonnet, I had a slight coolant leak. It wasn’t super fast, but enough to be a pain and when running I could see a slow but steady drip from the CTS flange. Turns out it was cracked inside, though I have no idea whether this was the case when I swapped it across from the old engine, which is slightly concerning...


Still, new one on without too much fuss. You’ll notice that it’s a little different to the one which came off, so I had to get a touch creative with a new hose to suit. I’ll revisit this as I’m not too happy with it but it functions perfectly so it’s low on the list.




Weather was poor for a week or so, so minimal progress was made on the car. During one random chat with @Prawn we were discussing brakes (more specifically his rather lovely new setup) which sent me down a rabbit-hole of procrastination. Despite the fact I neither need, nor can afford/justify new brakes, I ended up drawing up some bits on Solidworks. Don’t think they’d be too tricky to knock up either, so may well revisit at some point in the future…


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By this point I was getting a little annoyed at myself for not having sorted the car out properly. I was putting it off for stupid reasons but fundamentally I’d just lost motivation with it all. If someone had offered to take it off my hands cheap I’d have certainly considered it. When you find yourself in that situation, it tends to go one of two ways; Either you whinge and moan and do nothing about it, or you pull your finger out, throw a bit of money at it and sort it out. I decided on a hybrid approach, and whinged while I threw some money at it to get it back on the road :P

I was content that the engine was in reasonably good shape (other than a bit of heavy breathing), and given the gearbox was working well before coming out of the A3 I was pretty sure that wasn’t a stumbling block (I’d been one of the last people in the car with it before removal, and the shim could only have helped too) which meant the issue HAD to be somewhere between the two. The DMF/PP had a few light heat marks prior to me fitting them to the new setup, but they weren’t making any untoward noises at all and the stock clutch wasn’t slipping much. The only thing I’d changed was the fitting of the Sachs paddle, but this is designed as a direct replacement so shouldn’t cause problems.

Let’s just replace with brand new parts - the old ones had covered ~130k and despite not wanting to pull the box again, at least this way I could absolutely rule them out as the cause of the noise.



Saturday morning rolled around. Friend with garage away for weekend and had kindly offered me use of it, which meant no rolling around on the drive, roof over my head and most importantly light so I could work into the evenings when it was dark outside.

After shuffling some cars about to make room, I first popped the Golf onto the lift. It’s been making a strange squeak on small bumps recently, which I’d assumed was coming from the ARB bushes but I was keen to get underneath and check there was nothing else at play. With the exception of a worn wishbone rear bush all looks pretty reasonable under there. GSF sell stock wishbones including both bushes for £42 each, so I’ll probably just replace the pair together at some point. Using one of their ~50% weekend discount codes I should be able to pick up both wishbones with all bushes, a set of ball joints and new ARB bushes for a total of £65 or so. Bargain 

Golf taken care of, I headed home to drop it off and pick up the LCR. Limped it down to the garage tentatively (fortunately it’s mostly downhill) and got it on the lift. An hour or so later I was back to this all-too-familiar sight:


Early afternoon, Soph popped by with a delivery. I was waiting on a set of OEM pressure plate bolts I’d ordered a week ago that were yet to arrive so figured it was those but alas, they’ve still not turned up. Still, she brought something much more important:


After a quick chat she disappeared and I got to work splitting the box from the block. I soon found the source of the noise, and my heart completely sank. Flywheel had a considerable amount of rocking play in it (though still no more play rotationally than the brand new one) as a result of knackered bolts. On inspection, it looks as though one or two have failed creating the rock and noise, with the others being weakened/cracked on my drive to the garage and breaking as I tried to remove them. I was reluctant to drive the car at all, even to the garage, but it’s very fortunate it took it steady and hadn’t tried to drive the car anywhere else or it could have been DMF through the bellhousing time. Use genuine OEM bolts from the dealer, gents - these were claimed "genuine" from an online source, and I suspect weren't which may well have been a factor in their demise.


Here’s half a snapped bolt for you.


With so much stuck in the end of the crank, compounded by the fact that the bolts are bloody hard and come with some decent loctite, there was no way they were shifting easily. At this point I was trying to figure out the best way forward, and working out how long it’d take me to get home in a car borrowed from the garage, strip down the crank from a spare engine and get back to the garage with a view to swapping them over. This’d mean having to reuse bearings and bolts (the dealer was closed by this point) which is NOT good, but I could theoretically drop the sump at a later date to sort that out.

Perhaps I could head home and bring one of the spare bottom ends to the garage and use that, though of course it’d be on stock rods and I’d have to reuse a head gasket etc, so not ideal again and it’d negate the entire purpose of pulling things out a couple of months before. The car needed to be out of the garage by Sunday evening so leaving it in bits was not an option, I needed to get it out of there, ideally under its own power, within 24(ish) hours.

I was getting incredibly frustrated, so decided the best plan of attack was to have a dinosaur biscuit and clear my head working on something else for a while. I opted for a sauropod and sorting out some iffy threads on my turbo adapter. Chased threads, cleaned it all up, got the turbo bolted up again. Much better.


Feeling much better for having made at least SOME progress, I turned my attention to the crank once more. I am not a talented welder and whilst there’s a MIG plant at the garage with which I could weld a bolt to the remaining stubs, it’s a little iffy. The last thing I wanted to do was to weld the snapped portions in place, or to end up with spatter on the end face of the crank, so I decided against this for now.

With nothing to lose, I decided it was worth at least trying to drill out the remnants of bolts that remained. Despite attacking with penetrating oil frequently whilst working on the adapter plate, they were still not moving at all. At least we know the factory loctite is decent!

Sadly the same could not be said for any of the drill bits in the garage, nor any that I had at home. Nothing I tried got remotely close to making a dent in the bolts. If anyone finds this thread whilst desperately Googling for a way to remove snapped flywheel bolts, then I’m afraid your common or garden HSS & Ti bits aren’t going to do much at all.

Determined to get the feckers out one way or another, I hopped in a car and zipped into Plymouth. It was a Saturday evening so limited places were open, but even fewer were on the Sunday so it was the only chance I had really. Eventually I’d found a couple of stores and picked up various supplies; 2 sets of Cobalt drill bits plus some extras in the sizes I planned on using, 2 sets of extractors, assorted penetrating oils, PlusGas, thread cutting fluid and brake cleaners etc.

Armed with all of these and the remaining dinosaur biscuits, I was set to either sort the crank out or trash it beyond any thoughts of using it again in the future. Do or die time.

I cleaned everything thoroughly, before marking the centres of each bolt. I then gave both the bolts and drill bits a liberal coating with cutting fluid and went at each bolt in turn with a 2.5mm bit; not the strongest but I figured if I could keep it straight it’d be the best chance at getting started I had. If I could make a pilot hole, then I should be able to progressively increase the diameter and take things out far enough to get an extractor in and wind the bolts out. One pilot hole complete, then two, snap. Balls. Still, I was further ahead than I had been, and I’d bought extra bits for this exact reason. After faffing about and breaking a few more bits (uneven surface where the bolts had snapped was less than helpful at this point) I had a small hole in each bolt.

Winding an extractor in proved tricky - being so hard they refused to cut their reverse thread and instead I ended up with a couple of stripped and useless small extractors. Not to worry, I’ll drill them a little larger and use the next size extraction tool, we’ll get there in the end, surely?

Except they all met the same, disappointing end. Next plan of attack was to continue increasing the size of the bore to weaken the stubs as much as possible, though with a view to not damaging the threads in the crank. If I could remove the bulk of the bolt, I could try to either break the remainder out or chase through with a tool - except they are M10x1.0 (fine) and I didn’t have a suitable tap. Ah well, let’s crack on and figure that out later. Worst case, I mess up the crank and have wasted some time but I’m no worse off otherwise.

I managed to increase the holes in each bolt to around 5mm or so before they didn’t want to go any further. This still left a good 2-3mm all round each bolt, which was far too much to break. In fact, even the off-centre-drilled bolt which by this point had a paper-thin annulus was still too tough to break out. I’d tried knocking in a torx bit earlier on (while the holes were ~3mm) but to no avail, however thought I’d give it a shot at this size. I grabbed another torx driver (T50-T55, IIRC) and a lumphammer, and slowly but surely I was able to, rather brutally, get the torx bit in the bolt solidly enough that I felt it might withstand a good amount of torque.

I slowly built up pressure with a 12” ratchet, rather than shock loading it which would likely round things off and make life even more awkward than it already was. With more constant PlusGassing things eventually started to reluctantly rotate. Not long after, one bolt was out. Bingo! Another 20 minutes or so of very careful work saw the remaining sections removed too.


With that the crank was one quick clean up away from being good to go again, however it was getting late by this point so I called it a night.


Sunday morning rolled around, and I got to the garage at around 10. First task was to clean up the crank ready to fit the new DMF. Although I was happy that the old snapped bolts were out, I was also conscious that I’d given it all a fair bit of abuse the previous day. With this in mind, I wanted to chase through the threads. I mentioned before that I didn’t have an M10x1.0mm tap of any sort, and hunting around the garage proved fruitless too. Still, after adding some flutes with a grinder I knocked one up using another flywheel bolt I had to hand (I had a complete spare set)


Lots of cutting fluid and back and forth later, I was happy with the state of things and ready to bolt up the new flywheel, so that’s exactly what I did. I was incredibly cautious with it and loaded up the torque extremely slowly, feeling it out as I went in case any of the threads were still not perfect. I slowly worked around in typical Star of David fashion until all bolts were threaded in a handful of turns, then proceeded to build torque to spec in stages. In reality, I probably should have been a little less anal about this, but I was extremely keen to do everything i could to avoid having a repeat of the last time. I am CERTAIN that I torqued everything to spec properly last time yet still had a problem, so I’ve been even more precise with it all this time around. Wound in a few turns, equalised torque to a low setting, increased uniformly over a few stages at 10Nm intervals up to spec from there. Long story short, DMF fitted, happy days.



Time for a celebratory biscuit. By the time I got there, the carnivores had thinned the herd. Seen here in the process of taking out a deformed sauropod of some sort.


Next up, grab the conveniently sized socket as an alignment tool and mount the clutch plate


This is a plate I’d picked up second hand for next to no money at all. It’d been advertised as having been worn out, so I made a cheeky offer for the plate with a plan to get it relined with friction material, however on arrival I was pleasantly surprised to see it still had ~7.6mm material left. Not far off new! Here’s compared to the 8.1mm of meat on the brand new clutch plate I received with the DMF/Pressure Plate:


I’ll hang on to the plate, but if anyone’s in dire need drop me a line (Y)

At this point, I realised I had cocked up. You may have spotted it in the photo above, but if not you’re just as bad as me. In all the excitement of saving the crank and getting the new flywheel fitted, I’d completely forgotten to fit the thin shim which sits between the block and the bell housing. Muppet!

There was absolutely NO was I was removing the DMF again at this point, so I opted to make a tactical slot in the shim and a few minutes later had wrangled it around the flywheel and into position. Phew!


Shiny new pressure plate up next. My OEM bolts hadn’t arrived, so I had to make some. They’re standard M8 so these 12.9s will do the job just fine, but needed to be cut to length or they’d foul the flywheel. Few minutes with a grinder, file and some nuts and job’s a good’un. newpp


Time for another self-congratulatory biscuit. By this point the carnivores had left little else. They’d been working as a pack to this point but I expect the group dynamic will change when they get hungry...


I’d received a new LUK CSC with the clutch kit, so although the Sachs unit was nearly brand new I opted to change it, particularly since the previous one had died so quickly. Interestingly the LUK part is a 2-piece unit, unlike the Sachs. It’s also a plastic housing vs the alu Sachs one.


All fitted, time to reconnect the gearbox and engine. Snugged up the bolts (torqued them all fully once back in the car, as easier to get to the two on the bottom when it’s off the floor) and got it all on the crane once more.


And back in the bay


Nipped up the aforementioned bolts, and fitted this critical component. I don’t think I’ve ever worked on a car which still had this, but decided I wanted one so got it ordered! :P


With it back in the car, I proceeded to get all the hoses/connectors back in place. I’m fairly sure I have a grounding issue somewhere as my battery keeps dying, so need to investigate this. Eurgh, electrical systems…. Still, connected up, I topped up fluids, held my breath and turned the key. No nasty noises, and fluids retained so that’s a bonus! I do have a slight oil leak from the turbo return line but it’s a complete bodge at present anyway, so I’ll look to buy some flanges and do a proper job of that. Perhaps some AN line, who knows.


Content that the car wasn’t going to spit its dummy JUST yet, I refitted driveshafts, wheels, bumper et al and moved the car out of the garage. A good clean up after myself and it was like I’d never been there at all...


I returned to the dinobiscuits before I locked up. Turns out there can be only one, so they’d fought amongst themselves and this meathead proved himself to be Alpha…


...or so he thought.


I took a slightly scenic route home. Didn’t give anything much abuse, but progressively through the range it feels good. No nasty noises or warning lights flashing up, and the turbo appears to be spooling up as it should with the new N75 too. That said, I’ve still only done the few miles this far, so it’s early days. I REALLY hope this is sorted. Watch this space!

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7 hours ago, Luke Rainbird said:

Cracking stuff chaps. Robin, forgive me if you've said already but what tubing did you use in the end? Did you go with something FIA/MSA compliant? I know you're not looking to race it, but lots of people seem to use them as an acceptable standard set of guidelines

Not sure if I did say one here or just retrorides, but the cage tubing is a mix of 51x2mm and 38x2.6 cds to the spec required by the MSA yearbook. It's MSA compliant, but not FIA. Although not from day one due to budget, I want to try and build the car to MSA spec for all the bits that aren't discipline specific, so if I ever wanted to race it I won't have to re-do too much work. 

 Nice to see some good progress with the Leon, and bloody lucky you caught the flywheel in time! Is the turbo adapter the one I got water-jet cut for you? How did it finish up if so? I hope the slight tapering didn't cause too much of a headache. 

Oh, and Tom, thanks for the recommendation, I'll check them out. Any idea which model of pioneer you've got? 

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Sounds good dude. Nice to have the option to race it, even if there are no immediate plans to do so.

Adapter is actually a different one - I was able to get one knocked up on base before I left the mob so took full advantage, though still have the waterjet one in the garage. Biggest issue on that was accurately drilling the 5x angled studs across it - when I popped in to the machine shop to ask about getting it done they offered to do the whole lot for a pack of Hobnobs, so I took full advantage :lol: DP flange is from the batch you had done though - other than opening up the holes a touch to account for a slight tweak it was spot on.

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Cool, I'm glad you didn't have any trouble with it, even if it's because you hadn't tried rather than tried and failed!

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Good work on getting those flywheel bolts out, that could have been so much worse than it was!

What compressor wheel is that? Ebay 7+&?

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On 04/12/2017 at 10:12 PM, RobinJI said:



Oh, and Tom, thanks for the recommendation, I'll check them out. Any idea which model of pioneer you've got? 

They're pioneer ts-44 I bought, they came in some little plastic pods which suited me but I guess they'll do the same speaker without the pod. I just needed something I could mount that wouldn't look garish and I could paint to suit. They're hooked up to a pioneer H/U too so I guess that might help.


Painted to match the dash they look pretty cool sat underneath the dash rail and on the parcel shelf.

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Cool, Thanks Tom. Those look like cool little pods, I'll more than likely be on the lookout for something similar for the Porsche to take the monotony out of motorway drives. (The joy of living in the corner of the country!)

I've ended up ordering some Pioneer TS-A132Ci Component speakers which seem really well reviewed. I'll have to see what they're like when they turn up. I went with components in the end because the rear speakers are in the roof facing straight down into the top of the boot, and with the components I can mount the tweeters either in the C-pillars or a forward facing section of the roof lining, to hopefully get things facing a more sensible direction.

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I've started doing some shoots for a new car magazine. Here's my friends NSX that I shot today.





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Dream car right there. One day...

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He has so many epic cars.

Many MX-5 special editions, Lotus Evora, RX-7 Type R, NSX mk1, NSX mk2, FTO, S2000, Honda Legend.

I've been out in most of them, apart from the Lotus.

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Insane run. The driver is so damn casual at 190mph


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Yeah, that tends to happen when you don't have any corners on your completely clear section of groomed and inspected track. 

The engineering behind it is far more impressive. 

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Can't even begin to stress how much i'm getting into the swing of things now. Loving it so much, the garage trophy that I used to tut and walk past each time I went to washing machine is now actually coming back into my life haha.
I'm not 100% sure on the timescale but i'll pretend it went like this.
Last week I did some claying...
I haven't polished anything yet as I really want to get a DA and do it properly. I can't justify spending all that money on one though.
Anyway Boris looks shiny now pre-polishing
38226138444_bdc306d0fc_b.jpg20171209_201716 by dann2707, on Flickr
24077228327_c93e7ea5f2_b.jpg20171209_201724 by dann2707, on Flickr
27164700219_e2264b5c8b_b.jpg20171209_201733 by dann2707, on Flickr
25071158598_0f76763bca_b.jpg20171204_214202 by dann2707, on Flickr
24077419197_243d1f46e3_b.jpg20171204_214153 by dann2707, on Flickr
Then tonight i've secured my heatshield at the back properly and also used the smaller excess I had to create the ultimate turbo coverer upper aka turbo heatshield. Looks a bit blingy now but it's doing a job and i'm mega happy with it.
No flash
25071112678_c13872f463_b.jpg20171209_185254 by dann2707, on Flickr
25071118918_530cf9413f_b.jpg20171209_191113 by dann2707, on Flickr
I spontaneously decided to move the air filter. Can't stress how much happier I am with where it is now. Especially as I can happily run an air feed from the fog light duct up there now.
Before (its sucking up alllllllllllllllllllllllll the heat from the oil catch can and the coolant header overflow)
38942593901_b68ac0a847_b.jpg20171209_191125 by dann2707, on Flickr
After, had to move the ecu by flipping it over on it's bracket. No biggy
38226334414_b1f846017e_b.jpg20171209_200336 by dann2707, on Flickr
Then heres an absolute tornado of pics cos I think it looks super sexy now haha
24077333697_ac937d0b23_b.jpg20171209_200357 by dann2707, on Flickr
24077337537_2e3ec15af7_b.jpg20171209_200406 by dann2707, on Flickr
24077323357_18017fcf41_b.jpg20171209_200457 by dann2707, on Flickr
38226226994_fb2235301e_b.jpg20171209_200526 by dann2707, on Flickr
38226183384_b1a33acd92_b.jpg20171209_200552 by dann2707, on Flickr
38056063185_ff625f09cf_b.jpg20171209_201412 by dann2707, on Flickr
It's also worth noting that next year i'll have had Boris for 4 years which is absolutely mental. I've never held on to a car for that long ever, what a journey it's been. Here's some pictures from when I first got him...
Who knew what this would have turned into...
Cheers x
Edited by dann2707
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Top work Dan. Could that intercooler pipe be run any better? It would look so much cleaner with it going round the head rather than straight over the top.

Is she all legal to drive? 

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17 minutes ago, Danny said:

Top work Dan. Could that intercooler pipe be run any better? It would look so much cleaner with it going round the head rather than straight over the top.

Is she all legal to drive? 

Cheers Danny. Unfortunately not due to where the turbo is on the meg engine, sticks out straight over the engine it's a truly hateful design. In a way I like it though as it differentiates my engine from all the "standard" turboed clio 172/182s where the turbo comes out to the right of the engine. #hipster hahaha. I need a custom exhaust now which is on the cards for the new year, then an mot but other than that yeah man. 

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Looks great Dan, glad your getting there with it buddy.

Took the ford out in the snow and ice over the last few days. Best fun I've ever had at 15mph :lol:. Totally sideways on full lock with a screaming v8 is literally the best fun.


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Thanks guys, means a lot!


Another small update from today..

I removed the intake pipe as I wanted to insulate it with some heat wrap I had, due to the header tank and catch can still resting fairly close to it.

38077444365_c5fcfcb981_b.jpg20171210_141213 by dann2707, on Flickr

Then all wrapped and secured. Easiest way to do this is to apply it wet then when it dries it nicely tightens against the pipe.

38927103212_0291f2bbb3_b.jpg20171210_142610 by dann2707, on Flickr

24098934827_9b0c4bf24f_b.jpg20171210_143345 by dann2707, on Flickr

My engine mount bolts always looked a bit manky so I wanted to clean them up a bit with the wire wool attachment on the drill...


25092318748_fa08156eff_b.jpg20171210_143357 by dann2707, on Flickr

After on the right

38247540194_8f492aa1ac_b.jpg20171210_143403 by dann2707, on Flickr


38927335032_9428e9d12d_b.jpg20171210_160544 by dann2707, on Flickr

Another little job that was on my mind, when I had to jump start the car before the jump leads wouldn't clip onto the battery terminals as it was such a small little m5 bolt head so I made an extension using a longer m5 bolt as below:

24098957597_838957d5b9_b.jpg20171210_151807 by dann2707, on Flickr

24098982647_753ac6bf87_b.jpg20171210_151812 by dann2707, on Flickr

Now it clips on and stays on

38077534435_dd36415977_b.jpg20171210_151853 by dann2707, on Flickr

Whilst I was doing that the heatwrap had dried so refitted it into the engine bay and also used the last bit of nimbus I had to act as a guard to the left of the filter. It probably won't do much but every little helps.

38963748421_36ce154316_b.jpg20171210_160446 by dann2707, on Flickr

38247725374_92edc2f748_b.jpg20171210_160457 by dann2707, on Flickr

I've also connected one of my foglight ducts up to act as an air feed to the filter.

27186433879_6b80bcf8cf_b.jpg20171210_160507 by dann2707, on Flickr

Desperately needs a clean under the arch haha

38963947321_6f694f81d1_b.jpg20171210_160526 by dann2707, on Flickr

I finally took one of my wheels to the bathroom to locate a slow puncture, turns out the valve is leaking every so slightly where it's seated against the rim. The below method, as expected, works very well!

38077624375_24d2547f04_b.jpg20171210_163935 by dann2707, on Flickr

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Watched back a video a mate took of the Civic going into Hall Bends last time out and it proper tri-pods with a little trail braking haha. Back wheel gets up much more than I expected given its relatively soft spring rates (does have a beefy rarb mind). 

Bitten the bullet and bought a set of clutch plates with a view to rebuilding my diff in the new year too, never rebuilt one so it’ll be learning curve. 



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Bagged myself another 306! 

X-R D Turbo. 
Stainless custom exhaust, nicely made. 
GTI-6 wheels 
Bilstein front shocks/springs & rear shocks
Completely rot free 
10 months MOT 


Needs a heater matrix but theyre not bad to replace and ive got a brand new one for the sum of £19.00. 

Stripping the Civic to replace the shell so this means Im not in a rush to get it done in a weekend as Ive done in the past.. although Id like it done within the next 4 months if possible in time for the summer track season. 

Drives real nice too. Bosch pump is easily wound up, wastegate easily made to remain closed for longer....  Might go for a track day or two in it while the weathers kack as well. 

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By "replace the shell" I assume you mean with a Teg?

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5 hours ago, Luke Rainbird said:

By "replace the shell" I assume you mean with a Teg?

I admire your persistence to see that I buy a DC2. 

Although it’s the more costly option (needing new mounts/loom to accommodate the K20 and different control arms) it’s the most likely replacement, yes. 

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Sounds like a good excuse for making some tubular control arms too ;)

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Off the shelf items will suffice for the moment, I don’t just trust my fabrication skills for such a vital component just yet haha. 

I’ve been doing some sums and I can make back a decent amount from what I have left of the Civic that I won’t be using/can’t use on the Integra. 

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