Martin Reynolds Posted January 27, 2013 Report Share Posted January 27, 2013 The superchargers from bmw mini's pretty much fall on, and you can buy the manifolds/kits made up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobinJI Posted January 27, 2013 Report Share Posted January 27, 2013 Yeah, I'd keep a-series or go for a swap to an engine that's the same weight or lighter, and somewhere between 100 and 150bhp, preferably with plenty of revs. Liam's k-series swap was for exactly that reason, fun. As great as the a-series is, having paid good money for a decent 1293 for it to then last 2 years before killing its self, the prospect of doing it all again wasn't so fun. With the light k-series in it it still drives like a mini (it's still on 10s) goes well, and he doesn't have to worry about breaking the engine, because it's just how it was designed to be, and even if he does, it'll cost pennies to get it back on the road and him grinning again. The lack of straight-cuts does suck though haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Reynolds Posted January 27, 2013 Report Share Posted January 27, 2013 The lack of straight-cuts does suck though haha. Skip to 1:30 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Booth Posted January 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2013 B16s are to refined for minis. Supercharged a series is a flawed method at the minute in my opinion,unless someone gets good results from this new slark setup I can't see much changing either. Turbo motors are fun in a straightline,but on the twistys you do have to be careful with the loud pedal, especially with a t3. Can't go wrong with a Lairy well built 1293/1380 in my books. Fast enough for the chassis of a mini, doesn't affect the awesome handling of a mini and always looks good. My next project motor will be a Lairy small bore hopefully. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duncy H Posted January 28, 2013 Report Share Posted January 28, 2013 An a series of some sort does seem most likely, but I'm still going to leave it open probably til I buy something. First priorities are to strengthen the shell up and do a bit of welding here and there. Got a few tiny holes under the rear seat and drivers footwell then going to paint my interior to match cause its white underneath. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duncy H Posted February 3, 2013 Report Share Posted February 3, 2013 Anybody lifted an engine out using manpower? I've removed most things, might take the head off too and want the engine out but my drive/garage would be very awkward for a crane I think and I've got a few burley mates. I'm more concerned about how to lift it out . Ie what to grip on too or use to lift it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
King C Posted February 3, 2013 Report Share Posted February 3, 2013 I haven't lifted one out but weedy ol' me and my weedy ol' dad have moved one from the driveway to the shed out back by strapping it up and using some scaffold tube to lift against. Getting enough height to actually lift the engine out is the only real issue I can see if you have burley mates to help. You could use a longer scaffold tube and get a few lifting it out. I've lifted blocks and gearboxes (separately) in and out before but I have a removable front. What I'm saying is, I'm not that strong and I can lift a block on its probably doable with a few mates. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duncy H Posted February 3, 2013 Report Share Posted February 3, 2013 Yeh I'm not so much worried about the weight, more so the height it's got to be lifted to clear the top of the front panel. I need to come up with a genius plan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurtisRider Posted February 3, 2013 Report Share Posted February 3, 2013 I found it easier to raise the body high and lower the engine to the floor with my camper, then just tilt the engine on its side onto a trolley jack (or some wheel skates if you have any) and pull it free 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Reynolds Posted February 3, 2013 Report Share Posted February 3, 2013 I found it easier to raise the body high and lower the engine to the floor with my camper, then just tilt the engine on its side onto a trolley jack (or some wheel skates if you have any) and pull it free This. leave the engine on the subframe, unbolt the subframe and pick the bodywork off the engine/subframe. easily done with 2 people Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobinJI Posted February 3, 2013 Report Share Posted February 3, 2013 Yeah, if you've got a fixed from it's easier to lift the car over the engine. Plus if anything goes wrong and it gets dropped it's less likely to do any visible damage. With a flip front 2 average blokes can lift it out fine, but like you say, it's the height that's the issue with a fixed front. You should try lifting a VW diesel! 2 of us only managed to get it about an inch off the floor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurtisRider Posted February 3, 2013 Report Share Posted February 3, 2013 I awkwardly carried (read slightly lifted and scuffed along the floor every so often ) a 1.9TDI engine from a toledo with a herniated disc, not the most pleasant experience... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobinJI Posted February 3, 2013 Report Share Posted February 3, 2013 Ouch! To be fair we were lifting it awkwardly (out of my Scirocco's boot). A k-series on the other hand can comfortably be picked up by 2 guys, even with the box and all ancillaries on it, or not so comfortably by 1. Good luck getting it out anyway, I'm sure you'll find a way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Posted February 5, 2013 Report Share Posted February 5, 2013 Do you not have a solid beam above you in the garage where you can rig up a block and tackle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobinJI Posted February 8, 2013 Report Share Posted February 8, 2013 Just been sent a couple of photos of the Mini I did a lot of restoration work on in the summer, really pleased with how it's turned out, the guy's done a really good job of finishing it off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duncy H Posted February 9, 2013 Report Share Posted February 9, 2013 That looks very smart, but I'd have preferred to have seen it be restored to the miglia sort of build. I'm still waiting on borrowing a crane before I can progress any further with the mini Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobinJI Posted February 27, 2013 Report Share Posted February 27, 2013 Does anyone want a nice little project? We've got a Mini in work that's being sold off as an incomplete project, basically a rolling shell with a bunch of other parts. Basic rundown of the spec: 80's shell, straight and completely rust free, it was fairly good to start with, we've repaired anything that wasn't tip-top, it's in high-build primer inside and out. Tubbed and turreted out back on coilovers, fibreglass boot floor with space for an alloy tank. Rear beam axle, not sure of make or anything but it's made from box section and looks like it'll work fine. Bulkhead's boxed for webers, and boxed for a turbo, so you could run either. Carbon roof, old one's cut out, new one's ready to bond on after paint. Safety-devices roll cage welded in with a harness bar added. Fiberglass doors. Polycarb windows with sliders in the fronts Fiberglass bootlid. Fiberglass 2 piece dash (dash, centre-consul, gauge pod). Carbon flip-front (gelcoat finish ready for paint). Fibreglass bonnet. Hydraulic hand brake fitted and original moved back to clear it. Also comes with a turbo engine (no idea of spec/condition, just that it's a genuine metro turbo one) solid but tatty looking assembled front subframe and maybe more parts. We've only got the rolling shell at work, so I don't know exactly what other parts he's got for it, but it's all up for sale due to somewhat unfortunate circumstances. The chap's after £2750, which I think's fair considering the spec and how much any Mini that's genuinely rust free's going for now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onza pro series guy Posted March 20, 2013 Report Share Posted March 20, 2013 I'm selling my '84 se-seamed Mini Sprite give us a pm if anyones interested... Sorry for the spam guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
that NBR dude Posted May 14, 2013 Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 Not even sure if I've ever posted pics of this in here so here she is, Rosie my hill climb and sprint car. Would take me a while to list the full spec of it but its got a Metro 1275, Stage 4 head, CBR Fireblade carbs, Fiesta brakes, John Alley roll cage ect ect. I can list everything if you "really" want to know Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Booth Posted May 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 Looks good andy, bet that goes pretty well! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Posted May 15, 2013 Report Share Posted May 15, 2013 Looks good Andy and list everything I need to do my flywheel oil seal as i have a nice oily clutch (i think. Theres oil running out the starter motor hole ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
that NBR dude Posted May 15, 2013 Report Share Posted May 15, 2013 Damn it Danny Ok here goes: Spec: Engine: Metro 1275 A+ Metro Electronic ignition Bill Richards Stage 4 head 31mm/36mm 1.5 ratio Roller Rockers MED lightened / toughened pushrods 200lb double valve springs Bronze valve guides Twin Keihin Fireblade carbs Custom made twin inlet manifold (made from twin HS4 manifold, ported and had additional pipe welded onto the end to suit the bike carbs) Facet Solid state fuel pump Fuel pressure regulator Kent 286 cam Vernier Duplex timing gear Maniflow stage 3 LCB, link pipe and single centre exit backbox 19 row oil cooler High flow water pump Alloy superfin 2 core radiator Steel 2 blade radiator fan Force Racing rose jointed engine and gearbox steadies Ultimate engine steady Gearbox: Standard A+ gearbox Centre Oil pickup 3.1:1 Final drive MED 3.9kg lightened flywheel Competition clutch Orange Clutch Diaphragm Braided clutch lines KAD quickshift Brakes: Mk1 Fiesta front Calipers 7.9" discs Goodridge braided lines Front brake cooling ducts MiniFin rear drums Suspension: Front GAZ Adjustable shocks, rear Spax adjustable shocks Hi-lows Rear adjustable negative camber brackets Front 1.5deg negative camber bottom arms Adjustable Tie rods Powerflex Poly bushes all round Wheels / Tyres: 10x6 Revolutions 165/70/10 Falken FK-07E tyres Interior: John Alley Full roll cage Remote battery kill switch Fire extinguisher Arc Angels S300 Fibreglass dash Removed stalks and made custom wired in switches on dashboard for lights, wipers and other auxilleries KOSO DB02r digital instruments TIM gauges Laranca quick release steering boss 13" by 3" dish leather steering wheel Cobra Monaco S bucket seats TRS 3" webbed 5 point rotary harness Sparco 2" webbed 4 point harness TerraTrip Clubman intercom with 2x practice headsets and 2x V2 Open face Helmets + Headsets Holes filled in front and rear bulkhead and rear parcel shelf to meet MSA requirements Exterior: Curley Fibreglass front end Custom timing strut TRS tow straps front and rear RS Turbo Fibreglass bonnet Lifeline MSA Formula mirrors Arc Angels Fibreglass boot lid Mini Sport Group 2 arches ABS Motorsport perspex windows all round (apart from glass windscreen) Single Skin doors with pull string door release (MPI doors with door bars) Drilled door and boot handles Mini Spares Competition Anti-roll bar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duncy H Posted May 29, 2013 Report Share Posted May 29, 2013 I think I'm going to have to sell my mini :'( Going to put it back on the road first though and have a play til it sells, I'd love to keep it but it just isn't the right time for me to have have two cars and isn't suitable for what I'm after. I'll need some bits to put it back on the road though so if anyones got any bits I may need then shout up. I'd need a full exhaust, door cards, seats and a few other small bits. I'll certainly get another once I'm more financially stable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake. Posted May 29, 2013 Report Share Posted May 29, 2013 Man I've always wanted a mini. Recently applied for a motor vehicle maintenance course, should hopefully help me get on a path to building up my own mini. Anyone got any tips? I'd love to buy a fully kitted out mini but I feel it'd be far more special doing it up with my dad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Posted May 30, 2013 Report Share Posted May 30, 2013 The main thing is get a solid shell. Then just bolt on whatever you like. My clubman came home at the weekend (it's been in various other peoples garages for the past few years) Ive just got to crack on with it now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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