HippY Posted January 24, 2014 Report Share Posted January 24, 2014 On real life, no difference There was some video that LinusTechTips tried an expensive 2133MHz RAM vs 1333MHz noname RAM, with very small difference With that said, if you have an AMD APU (A4/A8/A10) then you must go for fastest ram you can on dual channel(s). The reason is the CPU and GPU are on the same die, and because they use that memory that is on the motherboard, they benefit a lot. also if you do some work, for example HD video editing for a living (or for a hobby) it might be worth to spend money on RAM (and CPU and storage and RAID controller..) to render the video faster Nah got speakers and ain't fused about DVD drivers. Will sort a decent monitor out another time. I'd rather have more ram than I need Adding RAM is dead simple, basically you put a long card into the slot, and that is it. If you are on a budget I would advise you to get 4 GB first, and if you have more money, and you need/want more RAM, then get more. Different make and model can run in a system, but it is advised to get the same type of RAM, as there is less chance that something does not like the other component Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muel Posted January 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2014 Yeh ram speed didn't matter much a couple of years ago, but now a few setups benefit from fast RAM. The APUs you mentioned and I think the Intel Ivy Bridge and Haswell chips? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HippY Posted January 24, 2014 Report Share Posted January 24, 2014 Hmm, I did not really kno w much things about Intel, as I prefer AMD, but I give it a read Their high end line for sure, but around the reasonably priced range, around i5? I dont know :/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fruitbat Posted January 25, 2014 Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 That's odd, that always worked for me in the past, possibly try always setting it to the same drive letter every time you plug it into a new machine so it isn't trying to change it to something that clashes with your home machine. What happens if you set the drive letter and replug the usb, will it auto play then? Think I may have worked it out eventually. Had to go into command prompt as administrator, diskpart, automount enable - seems to have solved it for now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted January 25, 2014 Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 Good stuff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Azarathal Posted January 25, 2014 Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 Can't think of a better place to ask this. Randomly decided to try attach my Logitech x540 5.1 pc speakers to my tv using only the L+R (and if it worked the sub too). My tv (dont laugh - Technika 40-920) has line out and sub out via phono connections, using a 3.5mm jack to twin phono from the front out on the built in amp doesn't output anything from the tv, audio works fine through hdmi. From my understanding as I'm mixing analog and digital signals they shouldn't work together but I know some tv's can work both at once, I'm guessing mine can't? Reading the manual all it says about line out is that it's for external speakers, nothing about whether it will or won't output if the tv's input is hdmi. Sorry for the block of text but can anyone shed some light? If needed I can get an analog to digital converter cheap through work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Quigley Posted January 26, 2014 Report Share Posted January 26, 2014 (edited) I would have thought you'd have to open the menu on the tv, go to sound options of some sort and tell it you want the audio to go through the line out? Whether or not the audio is being received from an external hdmi source shouldn't matter. You're basically just telling it to send the signal to the line out and not the speakers. Then again I'm not too tech savy so I may be wrong. Edited January 26, 2014 by James Quigley Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Azarathal Posted January 26, 2014 Report Share Posted January 26, 2014 Ive looked everywhere and the only audio out option I have is to enable optical out. I don't have any analog devices to connect to see If it outputs through line out. £30 on a stereo only analog > digital converter or just fork out for some new speakers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Canham Posted January 26, 2014 Report Share Posted January 26, 2014 Hey Guys I'm looking at getting a new case as its time to move on from one with coloured fans an so forth to a more clean / simple look as part of some upgrades i'm doing. So i'm looking at a nice clean simple case that can nicely fit an ATX board with plenty of room spare and room for some cable management behind the motherboard. The options I've been looking at are the Bitfenix Shinobi or the Corsair Carbide 200R. At the minute i'm swaying more towards the Carbide case as it comes with 2 pre installed fans (not an issue though as i've got some in my current case I can use) and the compact HDD bays. Just wondered if there are any other cases that some of you would recommend? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZeroMatt Posted January 27, 2014 Report Share Posted January 27, 2014 (edited) There's not really much choice in that ~£50 bracket. If you have some fans already the 200R is a decent option. That said, I think spending an extra £20 or so is worthwhile to get in the price range of something like a Fractal Arc Midi R2 or Fractal R4. Edited January 27, 2014 by ZeroMatt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muel Posted January 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2014 I have the Shinobi XL, if the Shinobi is similar I would avoid. They look great but the airflow through the front of the XL is severely limited. I saw on 1 forum that someone worked out that the front panel had 1/5 of the gap area needed to fully feed the front fan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Azarathal Posted January 27, 2014 Report Share Posted January 27, 2014 I can vouch the for fractal arc midi r2, a little bit of a cheap feel when puttin it all together but it's roomy, feels solid and looks nice. I went for black everything with white fans and white braised cables. Want me to get some pics later? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted January 27, 2014 Report Share Posted January 27, 2014 Having fitted my new cpu cooler (thermalright truespirit 140) it's dropped my full load temperatures by best part of 15°C which is awesome, it's also a much quieter fan, a moot point however because all the hard drives and other fans in my machine are noisy as hell I was working from home the other night (development of 3D cad models because we're migrating over to solidworks) and the missus had gone to bed early. She was complaining of a whining buzz (the computer is in a walk in cupboard in the bedroom) and it ended up giving her a headache, I couldn't hear a thing different. She is partially deaf because a virus killed the auditory nerve on one side, despite this she could hear that the cpu fan was running much slower than the old one. Did some testing playing around with different speeds in speedfan and below 750rpm and above 900rpm it is painful for her! Fortunately capping the speed to 70% is still enough to keep it at 62°C on full load at 4.2ghz. Really confused me as to how it can get quieter yet still be noisier Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Azarathal Posted January 27, 2014 Report Share Posted January 27, 2014 Less initial noise and more resonance? My old pc was loud as f**k yet my current pc can be heard downstairs despite me not hearing a thing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Canham Posted January 27, 2014 Report Share Posted January 27, 2014 I have the Shinobi XL, if the Shinobi is similar I would avoid. They look great but the airflow through the front of the XL is severely limited. I saw on 1 forum that someone worked out that the front panel had 1/5 of the gap area needed to fully feed the front fan. I do really like the look of the Shinobi, But if that is the case with the airflow I think I will give it a miss, Thanks for the heads up! There's not really much choice in that ~£50 bracket. If you have some fans already the 200R is a decent option. That said, I think spending an extra £20 or so is worthwhile to get in the price range of something like a Fractal Arc Midi R2 or Fractal R4. Im loving the looks and spec of the R4, Great reviews on it too, Think im going to stretch my budget a bit and go for that, Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HippY Posted January 27, 2014 Report Share Posted January 27, 2014 Having fitted my new cpu cooler (thermalright truespirit 140) it's dropped my full load temperatures by best part of 15°C which is awesome, it's also a much quieter fan, a moot point however because all the hard drives and other fans in my machine are noisy as hell I was working from home the other night (development of 3D cad models because we're migrating over to solidworks) and the missus had gone to bed early. She was complaining of a whining buzz (the computer is in a walk in cupboard in the bedroom) and it ended up giving her a headache, I couldn't hear a thing different. She is partially deaf because a virus killed the auditory nerve on one side, despite this she could hear that the cpu fan was running much slower than the old one. Did some testing playing around with different speeds in speedfan and below 750rpm and above 900rpm it is painful for her! Fortunately capping the speed to 70% is still enough to keep it at 62°C on full load at 4.2ghz. Really confused me as to how it can get quieter yet still be noisier try to get a non PWM ultraquiet fan! the PWM tend to make some clicking noise actually but maybe it is just the frequency that her ear is more sensible and it just hits that :/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted January 27, 2014 Report Share Posted January 27, 2014 Unfortunately if I disable the PWM and run it at 100% (1250rpm) it still annoys her If I set the speed via PWM with speedfan will it retain that setting persistently until I change it manually? I have set it to run between 55 and 70% which is the range that seems easiest for her. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HippY Posted January 27, 2014 Report Share Posted January 27, 2014 I would get a fan controller actually, as you can set it easily the exact speed that is good for her, without letting a software doing its job, because it might raise and lower the speed if necessary. You can get one for £15 or so, and they are fully manual 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Canham Posted January 28, 2014 Report Share Posted January 28, 2014 Back again chaps, Building up on my previous posts of wanting a new case, Im currently tidying up my computer and throwing in a few updates on the way. Im looking at power supplies at the minute and im not all clued up on the differences between them and what will suit what in terms of watts etc... Im looking at the Corsair RM Series 650W at the minute because of the amount of good reviews it had, But its a little out of price, The same model in 550W is a fair amount cheaper, I was just wondering if I would likely to use over 550W on my current setup?? Im currently running: - i7 2600k 3.4GHz, not overlcocked - Asus p8p67 mobo - 8gb Corsair Xms RAM (4x2gb sticks) - Gefore GTX460 (will be upgrading sometime soonish) - 1 SSD - 1 HDD - DVD Drive So yeah, Was just wondering if I would be okay to save some money and buy the 550W version or the would I need to get the 650W one. And would just like some advice on any reasons why this power supply might now work with my setup. Many thanks in advance!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HippY Posted January 28, 2014 Report Share Posted January 28, 2014 I tell you how you can calculate the wattage: Your CPU has a TDP of 95W Your GPU has the TDP of 150W Everything else 50W (it is waaay more then it will need, but just for the safety) 100+150+50= 300W if you run it 100% 550W is an overkill, even for future upgrades. High end nvidia cards has around 250W-300W usage, whereas AMD R9 290X can have upto 400W.... Modular VS non modular= the PSU has cables coming out, that is connected to the parts. although If you do not use all the cables, then you will have loads of cables just hanging around. with modular PSU you can remove/change the cables, so it will be tidier or look nicer if you choose coloured cables The PSU put its biggest power down at 12V line and you should pay attention to this number. anything above 40 amper (A) counts as decent (it should be around a 450W PSU) twin rail/single rail= single rail has one main output, whereas at double rail you will see two lines output. at the end it does not really matter, as you are going to see the same cables,the difference is internal. Nowadays with the better quality parts single rail is used mainly around this 450W-750W range This power supply will work, although personally I would use this one http://www.dabs.com/products/xfx-450w-proseries--80plus-bronze-core-edition-full-wired-psu-8DK2.html?refs=55420000&src=3 or its 550W version if you really want futureproofing http://www.dabs.com/products/xfx-550w-core-edition-80--bronze-psu-8K0S.html?refs=55420000&src=3 They have very good reputation, and if you look at their numbers, they produce the biggest ampers at 12V, and that is important for us 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muel Posted January 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2014 Run away from XFX PSUs, I've only heard bad things! Stick to Corsair IMO. The level of quality they produce is far beyond anything else I've ever seen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Azarathal Posted January 29, 2014 Report Share Posted January 29, 2014 Xfx psu's are rebranded silverstone psu's which are regarded as some of the best. Corsair were good when they used silverstone as their oem but for the <650w I believe they use a different oem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muel Posted January 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2014 Did not know that, I just follow the reviews fairly closely. I've had a few Corsair PSUs over the last 10 years, all still running perfectly. My next PSU will be an AX860i I think if/when I do my new build. (650 won't cut it, which is what I've got now). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weirdoku Posted January 29, 2014 Report Share Posted January 29, 2014 Another vote for Corsair! Used to have a TX750 that was used everyday all day for about 5 years, never failed. Now I have an AX760 because it is modular and the TX wasn't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Posted February 7, 2014 Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 Right guys I did something a bit strange. I got a computer off my college lecturer for £100. Decided to build it myself with my friend. The spec is pretty old but it gives me somewhere to start until I can order a motherboard bundle and a graphics card and reuse my case and hard drive. I had to buy the case separately. Anyway we got everything together, and most things seemed right but nothing was booting, no CPU fan, not even the PSU fan was moving, just a green led on the motherboard and PSU. We where switching everything on and off trying to get it to work, plugging stuff in. It turns out after we did something wrong (will say in a minute) that we hadn't plugged something in properly. Anyone got an idea of what's going on? Cheers Now, there is a red switch on the back of my PSU that changes the voltage to either 230v or 150v, obviously depends where you live, the states use 150v I believe. We changed it to 150v without really reading or thinking about it, we turned the power switch on and there was a loud pop, a spark, the fusebox in my garage flipped down and there was the smell of an electrical fire. Now, do 550w PSU's have a fuse? Like a plug? or is it fried and I need a new one? Have I completely ballsed up all my components or will I be okay considering nothing was booting up, meaning it wasn't all together. Smoke ONLY emitted from the PSU, no where else in the rig. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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