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Best way to go about removing my bash mount.


SamKidney

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Right, I recently purchased another Ice 2. I love the frame, and Im all too aware they're hard to come by now, so I want it to last.

My previous one cracked at the bashplate weld ends, so I intend to remove them to eliminate the stress riser.

My method would be to use a dremmel, and cut along the inside of the welds just enough to remove the bash mount and its gusset, but not go through the downtube, and then file away the remaing welds until theyre flush with the downtube.

Would this be the right way to go about it, or would I encounter any problems?

Cheers.

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Yea that's the right way to do it, same way I smoothed everything off the zoot. As you're filing, you'll get to a point where it looks like you're going through the frame - you're not, that's just the hole in the weld. Don't freak out like I did!

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Exactly. Ive cracked 4 bolt forks when running a disc..

I never ran a bashplate on my previous Ice, and that cracked there, and my Echo cracked on the two weld ends of its headtube gusset.

Edited by Echo Lite 09
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quite the opposite.

You stated this already, no need to state again :)

im sorry but this is just ridiculous, if your not landing on it because you havent got the bash plate on, you havent got the applied force on the underside of the downtube. how have you created a stress point?

If you hit the bit that sticks out on a bash mount, it causes a higher chance to crack/snap due to a much smaller pressure area.

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It's being whipped off tomorrow.

As for the stress point, it is exactly like how a fork breaks. The stress a fork goes through ideally needs to be dissipated as equally as possible.
The 4 bolt mounts on a rear of a fork interrupt this dissipation, and the stress is diverted to this point, causing a weak point. I.e, the stress riser/point. Thats what I can make sense out of it.

An example of this would be try-all having a line of weld from the mounts up the leg up to the crown on their forks in an effort to evenly spread this stress. I dont know if it works, someone who's ran both examples would have to comment.

Disc forks tend to last far longer than their 4 bolt counter parts because they dont have the mounts welded to the back of the legs.


Im hoping, in applying the theory to my frame and removing the mount, I eliminate its weak point and prolong its lifespan.

Edited by Echo Lite 09
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It's being whipped off tomorrow.

As for the stress point, it is exactly like how a fork breaks. The stress a fork goes through ideally needs to be dissipated as equally as possible.

The 4 bolt mounts on a rear of a fork interrupt this dissipation, and the stress is diverted to this point, causing a weak point. I.e, the stress riser/point. Thats what I can make sense out of it.

An example of this would be try-all having a line of weld from the mounts up the leg up to the crown on their forks in an effort to evenly spread this stress. I dont know if it works, someone who's ran both examples would have to comment.

Disc forks tend to last far longer than their 4 bolt counter parts because they dont have the mounts welded to the back of the legs.

Im hoping, in applying the theory to my frame and removing the mount, I eliminate its weak point and prolong its lifespan.

I think i'd rather have my forks snap at the 4 bolt mounts after a few months than the steerer to fly off later on

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Actually, the weld doesn't create a stress point. If anything it adds strength, however, if you were to file/grind the weld so that it sits flush with the frame then that would create a stress point where you've thinned out the frame. All I would do is remove the main body of the mount and leave the welds alone

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Sam, you are reading way too much into this. frames break, it's a fact of life. the damage on your old one was more than likely already done. cut the bolt hole thing off, smooth it off and leave it at that. mine has that, and it's not cracked in the 3 years me or josh barker had it

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It wouldnt be thinning the frames tubing. It would be filed so the weld is removed, with as small amount of tubing as possible.

Like I said, I'll be going ahead anyway. If it lasts longer, great. If not, then it can only last as long as it would with it being there if the stress riser hasn't been removed.



Sam, you are reading way too much into this. frames break, it's a fact of life. the damage on your old one was more than likely already done. cut the bolt hole thing off, smooth it off and leave it at that. mine has that, and it's not cracked in the 3 years me or josh barker had it


Its something Im genuinely interested in, and dont mind finding out about.
Im all too aware that frames break, I went through 5 last year.

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