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Post a pic of your non trials bike


Bucky

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4 hours ago, Ross McArthur said:

Bar angle level with top tube.

That's how I set it up. I was told on pinkbike that I should roll them forward which I did today. Makes a huge difference in takeoffs. I nearly crashed because I was jumping too far. Took some time to get used to but now I feel really comfortable with the setup.

 

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Not a major change from last time, well apart from the beasty forks, renthal stem, easton carbon bars, imprint grips and the balloon tyre on the front :D

Its gained a bit of weight, the forks are heavy coil sprung smoothness and the conti is rather lardy but still only about 31lbs I think.

New set of bearings throughout, fork service and a some tweaking to the shock and she's riding lovely :)

Yes the bike is small but the labrador is huge!

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Details on that frame are mint. What's the metal wheel arch thingy about between the rear wheel and the seat post? Never seen that on an MTB before. Was going to ask about the dog/bike scale thing, glad you cleared that up! :D

Edited by Daviesdt
Pressed post to early
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That's just how intense used to construct their vpp swingarms, it ties the chainstays and seatstays together to keep the pivots stiff enough; on the newer shorter travel frames they tend to just put a single CS/SS brace on the non drive side (the enduro and downhill frames are braced on both sides).

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  • 2 weeks later...

The 5.5evp's natural head angle is 70° with a 130mm fork, coupled with a reasonably high BB and a silly short wheelbase made it a little twitchy so was looking to slacken it out for a bit more stability.

Putting the rediculous length fork on the front (the vengeance is some 35mm longer axle to crown than a fox 36) had slackened the head angle loads.  The frame is designed for 140mm max, the forks are currently at 160mm which has slackened it out, wheelbase has increased from 1065 to 1085ish and head angle dropped to 67°.  Unfortunately the BB was then close to +35mm which is more than the triton :D

Fitted offset bushings to the rear shock, dropped the BB back to a more normal level and the head angle is now down to 65° or there abouts.  Still short as f**k but it suits me :)

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  • 1 month later...

Done a bit of uphill riding and it's not bad. Not going to be as good as a more 'all round' bike but it's perfectly manageable. With the 1x11 and dropper post, and the shock compression set to firm it goes ok. I never touch the fork settings, fork just seems to know I'm going up and behaves accordingly.

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10 hours ago, that NBR dude said:

Holy smokes thats a stunner!!

Unfortunately I can't take the credit as YT did all the work!! I went to a Forest of Dean test day and rode the CF Pro model, which was everything I'd ever need (good spec, although 170mm f+r rather than 180mm), but alongside this one (the CF Pro Race) it just didn't look half as good. One of the YT staff admitted they go all out on the top spec so that people go for it - worked in my case anyway!

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  • 1 month later...

My Cannondale Trigger with everything upgraded apart from frame, shocks and stem I think! Adjustable shock via the handle bar is great for some impromptu trials!

Renthal fat bars

MT5 up front

MT7 on the rear 

Spank rims on hope pro 4 hubs 

Sram dub GX cranks - BB30 was a joke 

170mm Rockshox stealth dropper

Sram X9 rear mech 

Fox DYAD 2 rear shock 

Fox forks 

MRP chain guide and bash plate 

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Rigid 26" (old Trek 3900, frame & seat clamp only original component) 1x9 hardtail for commuting. Exotic carbon forks. RSP dropper. SLX brakes.

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Built up last year, Bird Zero TR 650b/27.5" hardtail. 130mm Yari. E13 TRS+ 150mm dropper. 1x11 SLX groupset. Tubeless. Fun.

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Lastly, 26" Canyon Nerve XC 120mm FS, UST rims, KS 125mm dropper.

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Edited by marg26
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  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

A question from the ignorant: why the massive bulges in the downtubes near the BB these days?
Is it a style thing, or is there a stiffness/strength benefit? It's present on so many brands that I feel it must be some practical reason.

Some utilise the space created by it to tuck the shock out the way which is pretty smart, but other than that...

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Quite often it's to give enough stiffness to lower suspension linkages nestling around the BB. With the lengthening of frame front centres and shortening of chainstays, added to the increase in tyre widths more space has had to be found in the BB area.

I'm not too sure as to why the downtube is often kinked to horizontal just before the BB, I guess it's too reduce stresses at that tube junction.

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