forteh Posted February 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2015 Definitiely do the smear of washing up liquid trick as well, the latex doesn't always spread over every last bit of the carcass so it may be leaking through, the foaming will show that it's leaking. When I redid mine with the oko magic milk there was a patch about 6" long that it hadn't covered and no amount of bouncing/spinning had sealed it; in the end I popped the tyre off, wiped the sealant over the dry patch and it's held perfectly since. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ogre Posted February 5, 2015 Report Share Posted February 5, 2015 i'm off riding tomorrow so hopefully i can bed it all in then bonus question, will the tyre re-seat easier after you've initially seated it and got it to seal on the wheel? or does removing the tyre undo all of my previous pumpy efforts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dezmtber Posted February 5, 2015 Report Share Posted February 5, 2015 What I have learned over many years of tubeless fitting. Sealants: Stans or latex is the best and seals pretty much anything Slime pro doesn't seem to ever dry out ever its just amazing, I tend to use this to top up a dry tubeless from its original stans sealant Tyres: Spesh, maxxis and ust work well with pretty much any rim Schwalbe, panaracer seem to seal up much slower over a few days. Pretty much all rims can be sealed using stans tape or roval rim tape and cloth tape to fill out really deep rims. Happy cycling hope this helps a bit 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted February 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2015 i'm off riding tomorrow so hopefully i can bed it all in then bonus question, will the tyre re-seat easier after you've initially seated it and got it to seal on the wheel? or does removing the tyre undo all of my previous pumpy efforts? With my original oko off road sealant it sort of semi glued the bead to the rim enough that I could pump it up with my jowblow, with this magic milk (and the same will probably stand for any latex consistency sealant) once the tyre has deflated I need a compressor to get it back up again. I believe true ust you can blow up dry by hand without the need for sealant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dezmtber Posted February 8, 2015 Report Share Posted February 8, 2015 Funny enough I found ust to take a compressor if using tubeless ready tyres. But any pump when using ust rims and ust tyres. But stans/wtb rims and maxxis/spesh tubeless ready tyres can be pumped up using regular pumps so long as you use two layers of rim strip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted March 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2015 (edited) I just picked up a pair of wtb kom rims for a little over 40 quid Should drop a nice bit of weight (190ish grams off the rear wheel) and with a couple of extra tape wraps should blow up dry; the 23mm internal width will massively change the tyre handling compared to the 17mm of the current front rim! Now to see if I can reuse the spokes, the rim erd is about 3-4mm different from the mavic rims, I might get away with it Edited March 31, 2015 by forteh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luke Rainbird Posted March 31, 2015 Report Share Posted March 31, 2015 I've just picked up some of the OKO sealant for a play. Figured I best see what all this tubeless lark is about... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted March 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2015 The magic milk or the offroad stuff? If you have a compressor handy then it's easy to do tubeless with any old rims and tyres, ideally I want to be able to mount and inflate by hand though so proper ust compliant rims are the way to go I have tubes back in mine at the moment and the bike feels wooden and dead, that's just riding to work and back Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luke Rainbird Posted March 31, 2015 Report Share Posted March 31, 2015 The agricultural as f**k offroad stuff 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted March 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2015 (edited) Worked fine for me, about a fifth of the price as well Edited March 31, 2015 by forteh 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted April 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2015 KOM rims have just turned up at work, weigh in at 400g each; coming from a 590g rear rim it should see a good increase in acceleration Will do a dry test tape with some cheapy gaffa tape tonight to see how easily the blow on with my tubeless ready intense system5s. Once I've confirmed how much tape is needed I'll re-rim the wheels and break out the gorilla tape to do it properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew62 Posted April 2, 2015 Report Share Posted April 2, 2015 KOM rims have just turned up at work, weigh in at 400g each; coming from a 590g rear rim it should see a good increase in acceleration Will do a dry test tape with some cheapy gaffa tape tonight to see how easily the blow on with my tubeless ready intense system5s. Once I've confirmed how much tape is needed I'll re-rim the wheels and break out the gorilla tape to do it properly. Great rims! I've been using them for a year now with no issues at all. I've ran quite a few tyre combos on them in that time having set them up tubeless every time and they always go up a treat (and are strong to boot). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted April 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2015 Just done a dry wrap test with the cheap gaffa tape and with a little brush round with soap it's aired up super easy, it didn't want to go without the soap though. This is with an intense system5 which is supposed to be tubeless ready but isn't ust so I wasn't expecting it to go up fully dry. It's testing the hold at 40psi, when I'm happy that it's sealed ok I'll strip the old wheels down and start rerimming. Were all the tyres you tested the rims with ust compliant? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted April 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2015 Front wheel rebuilt, rim is to within about 0.25mm side to side with a slight up/down bounce that is inconsequential. Three wraps of gorilla tape cut to 17mm wide, pulled the bead up onto the shelf as far round the tyre as possible (about half way round the rim) and it inflated straight off and seated onto the bead lock. Deflated and reinflated with zero issues, I'll apply sealant tomorrow to deal with the porous carcass and set to work on rebuilding the back wheel. Front wheel without rotor, tyre or skewer is 820g, don't know if that's light or not but it's lighter than it was with the old rim (disregarding the fact it's 6mm wider!) so I can't complain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew62 Posted April 7, 2015 Report Share Posted April 7, 2015 Just done a dry wrap test with the cheap gaffa tape and with a little brush round with soap it's aired up super easy, it didn't want to go without the soap though. This is with an intense system5 which is supposed to be tubeless ready but isn't ust so I wasn't expecting it to go up fully dry. It's testing the hold at 40psi, when I'm happy that it's sealed ok I'll strip the old wheels down and start rerimming. Were all the tyres you tested the rims with ust compliant? Yeah all tyres were TCS or Michelin equivalent. Glad to hear your setup is holding up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted April 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2015 Well after several attempts I just couldn't get the valve stem to seal fully and they would deflate after an hour or so; obviously no issues blowing then up again though. I put it down to the american classic valves I have which have a broad mushroom head, picked up some wtb tcs valves from a lbs and still the same Did some research and discovered that the wtb rim tape is meant to run up onto the bead shelf, I had cut it so it only filed the inner channel so I guess it was weeping through somewhere. The wtb tape us 28mm wide. Unfortunately the roll of gorilla tape didn't have any 28mm width intact so went and bought some duck tape ultimate (thinner so conforms better to the bead and half the price for more than double the length!) and put a single full width wrap on the rims and fitted the valves with a little sealant. They won't air up without first lifting the bead onto the shelf with a tyre lever ( normally need about 50-75% I'd the bead lifted on) but then it's instant and seats at 20psi. They are only tubeless ready tyres though so don't conform to and standard. They seem to have held most of the 40psi I put in then last night so with a couple of rides they should fully seal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted April 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2015 For anyone with a 29er looking to go tubeless there are a pair of 29" kom runs on the bay 45 quid buy it now. Auction number 251912642085 if you're after usr company lightweight rims Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CC12345678910 Posted April 13, 2015 Report Share Posted April 13, 2015 Just found this on YT. I figured If I ever did go no tubes I'd do this and use some of that farmer sealant/the bike version. What do we think? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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