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Desperate help needed at Disc brake set up.


HippY

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Hey guys

I got a brand new SLX brake, I popped it into the front... and something is not right

I have RT66, 180mm.

So I have an old adapter (IS to PM) that I used with spacers with an avid Juicy 3 and a BB7 with success.

But whenever I set it up there is like 2 mm distance between the inner edge of the disc and the pad, there is 1-1 mm distance between the pads and disc( so it feels spongy, long travel distance) and most importantly, small brake power. By that I mean when I am in my room, see where it bites, the same power that requires the deore to hold the bike with small force pulling it does not work with the SLX, it slips really badly...

My question: How do I set up Shimano disc brakes? Do they need some Shimano adapters, and do they need spacers?

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I'd say set it so there's an equal distance either side. It's sounds like the outside pad is having to push the disc over to the inside pad to start braking. If the gap is equal the pads should hit at the same time therefor giving better performance.

it happens, there are like 1 mm distance between the pads and disc, equal hitting, that part is fine

but for me it seems that the pad does not cover the disc as whole... and the braking performance seriously lacking

I did not do anything rather than pump it and with slight hand power do a small test but it is far from the Deore...

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it happens, there are like 1 mm distance between the pads and disc, equal hitting, that part is fine

but for me it seems that the pad does not cover the disc as whole... and the braking performance seriously lacking

I did not do anything rather than pump it and with slight hand power do a small test but it is far from the Deore...

You have to bed them brakes in. Did the brake come with resin or sintered pads? If the latter, than the brake in period will take a long time on a trials bike. The resins have to be bedded in as well.

When setting up the brake, did you clean the rotor with alcohol (I use 100% Isopropanol)?

Lever travel is at least 2-3cm on an SLX brake so this is nothing to be worried about. If the disc is true, take the wheel out, pull the lever once and put the wheel back in. The pad wear adjustment will have pumped the pistons closer to the brake so that you don't have to pull the lever that far anymore.

Other than that, an SLX brake is pretty much a plug and play brake.

edit: About the pad not covering the entire disc area. Try using a Shimano IS->PM adaptor. If that doesn't help, your IS mount isn't placed correctly. Although... I've had to put shims under two Shimano calipers in order to get the pads placed correctly. In my case, they were too low, which isn't really a problem. If they are too high, there's nothing you can do about that really.

Do your pads stand over the disc on the top?

Edited by niconj
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You have to bed them brakes in. Did the brake come with resin or sintered pads? If the latter, than the brake in period will take a long time on a trials bike. The resins have to be bedded in as well.

I am aware of this but it seem to have rather small bite. like surprisingly small

When setting up the brake, did you clean the rotor with alcohol (I use 100% Isopropanol)?

nope

Lever travel is at least 2-3cm on an SLX brake so this is nothing to be worried about. If the disc is true, take the wheel out, pull the lever once and put the wheel back in. The pad wear adjustment will have pumped the pistons closer to the brake so that you don't have to pull the lever that far anymore.

Disc is a little bit not true, it got a ding, but nothing extensive

Other than that, an SLX brake is pretty much a plug and play brake.

edit: About the pad not covering the entire disc area. Try using a Shimano IS->PM adaptor. If that doesn't help, your IS mount isn't placed correctly. Although... I've had to put shims under two Shimano calipers in order to get the pads placed correctly. In my case, they were too low, which isn't really a problem. If they are too high, there's nothing you can do about that really.

I ll get a shimano adapter as there is one in the rear and it just bolted up with no spacer

Do your pads stand over the disc on the top?

I think a few mm yes, but I go home and give it a go, when I am not dead tired

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Some rotors/pads need more bedding in than others. Just give it a good ride downhill and brake sharply for 10 times; not to a full stop though. This should solve the problem. I suppose that these are resin pads. Am I right?

Edited by niconj
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Some rotors/pads need more bedding in than others. Just give it a good ride downhill and brake sharply for 10 times; not to a full stop though. This should solve the problem. I suppose that these are resin pads. Am I right?

they are the original pads that it came with. so probably yeah, but it can be sintered too

I get a shimano adapter then I try to bed it in

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Mine did this. Put the correct adapter on , new pads, fresh bleed, perfect. Not sure which if the fixes actually solved the problem, but it's not dramatic effort to do all of them anyway. Usually factory bleeds are quite bad?

Not with shimano, I've never had a shit bleed off one. they are probably one of the only fit and forget brakes out there

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Are you sure the adapter is a 180 and not 183/185 as that would hold it just slightly out. I had the same when I used a 203 adapter briefly.

That might be the case if it's an Avid adaptor.... I've had problems with two and read of many instances where a Shimano disc brake doesn't really fit, even with Shimano adaptors.

Oh and about the braking power... I currently run a Hope Trialzone with a Shimano disc (Hope disc is on its way). The pads stand over on the bottom for about 7mm. It still brakes incredibly well.

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it says 160 on it and that is fine, as my forks are +20...

Yesterday I set it up, tighten the bolts and unwind the lever, and now it has a much better feel...

I changed the gear ratio as well and as soon as I have a new rear tube, I will give it a go and see how it is!

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