petrolhead1989 Posted October 21, 2014 Report Share Posted October 21, 2014 Hello guys.. New here, and new to the sport itself.. I am currently looking for a bike to start off with.. Nothing expensive.. basically as cheap and cheerful as possible really.. I have been looking at Onza bikes??? Opinions please?? for £300, im rather tempted.. (and just sold my ps4 to put the cash towards it) But i have a quiery.. 20" / 24" / 26" bikes??? Any specific one for certain age groups? as ive seen alot of adults ride the 20" bikes.. or how do you determine which bike you require? or is it simply down to personal preference?? As i used to ride BMX for a number of years, (back in my teen days), and was sponsored by Haro Bikes... So now hitting the ripe age of 25.. being a rather heavy smoker, i decided to take up a new sport.. trials has always fassinated me.. so i thought id give it a go.. i should be all fine, due to the past experience with balancing and manouvering of a BMX bike.. Thanks very much for your help :bow: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isitafox Posted October 21, 2014 Report Share Posted October 21, 2014 Welcome! To start with Onza is a good brand to start off with, they make well priced and well specced bikes to suit all budgets and are pretty easy to pick up 2nd hand and sell on so yes definitely worth considering. As for the size it's down to personal preference and the general type of riding you plan on doing, most 20" and 26" riders ride shall we say "normal" trials whilst the majority of 24" bikes are for street trials (the general consensus here is Danny Mac style riding). The best thing you can do is try and get out to a local ride and have a go on what other riders use to see what looks like feeling right for you. Obviously the bar/stem/etc setup can be fine tuned but generally you'll be able to see what you prefer. If you say you rode BMX then you could be split between a 20" (due to the wheel size) or a 24" street bike (has a lot in common with BMX) or you might want something completely different in a 26" bike. It's worth having a good trawl through the video forum on here to see what sparks an interest and go from there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
petrolhead1989 Posted October 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2014 Welcome! To start with Onza is a good brand to start off with, they make well priced and well specced bikes to suit all budgets and are pretty easy to pick up 2nd hand and sell on so yes definitely worth considering. As for the size it's down to personal preference and the general type of riding you plan on doing, most 20" and 26" riders ride shall we say "normal" trials whilst the majority of 24" bikes are for street trials (the general consensus here is Danny Mac style riding). The best thing you can do is try and get out to a local ride and have a go on what other riders use to see what looks like feeling right for you. Obviously the bar/stem/etc setup can be fine tuned but generally you'll be able to see what you prefer. If you say you rode BMX then you could be split between a 20" (due to the wheel size) or a 24" street bike (has a lot in common with BMX) or you might want something completely different in a 26" bike. It's worth having a good trawl through the video forum on here to see what sparks an interest and go from there. Thankyou isitafox.. yeah personally im into the whole street trials thing.. Danny Macaskill is beast!!!! Im seriously concidering getting myself a Onza 20".. hopefully within the next week or so... if i dont get on with it, and feel like i need something bigger.. i can always see whats about 24" and 26" wise... But personally. ive rode 24" BMX's.. and it really didnt feel right.. Ive always associated BMX to be 20".. and a moutain bike to be bigger haha In regards to stem/bar setup tuning?? what exactly do you mean by that?? i just thought a stem was a stem, and bars were bars haha.. cheers fella Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isitafox Posted October 22, 2014 Report Share Posted October 22, 2014 Stems and bars come in all kinds of different lengths/widths and angles and simply changing from one to another you can completely change how a bike feels and rides! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
petrolhead1989 Posted October 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2014 (edited) OK, for those of you who dont know.. I bought a Zona Zip last night.. With Magura HS33 hydraulics setup etc well pleased Got a few newbie questions though, if i may... 1. the sprockets are wierd.. normally its the rear sprocket that freecoasts when your rolling down the street.. Not mine.. My rear sprocket is locked onto the hub.. its the front sprocket that stays still and does the clicking??? Ive never seen that before.. is that a typical trials bike thing? 2. Concidering my bike is uber light, especially compared to the BMX i used to ride... I cant seam to be able to hop it very high at all! I cud hop a BMX, from ground, over a park bench.. But my trials bike?? Basically a couple of curb heights high, is all i can hop it.. now i was thinking that maybe its because its a completely different design bike.. With weight transfer over the entire bike etc.. And maybe its just because i have to get used to the bike... as its new to me and feels strange to ride haha 3. The back brake, when applied.. (excuse the language).. squeeks like a bitch!!! Where as the front one dont.... How can i stop that? 4. the back brake lever has a little screw, that can be turned in and out to adjust for brake pad wear etc.. the front though, has a little red wheel, inbedded in the lever... The front brake has alot of lever play before brakes apply.. But i cant seam to be able to turn that little thing to adjust them up a bit.. its stiff as anything and wont budge...??? I will get some pics up of my bike tonight.. Sadly, im stuck to using a crappy little samsung phone that has no camera.. So will have to wait till the mrs gets home from work Edited October 23, 2014 by petrolhead1989 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
petrolhead1989 Posted October 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2014 Well, instead of waiting for the mrs to get home, to use her camera.. I just saved the ebay photos to my computer.. Like i said.. Looks cleaner and better in person!! so keep that in mind.. In the picture here, its got a bald rear tire and slightly rusted chain.. But the bloke fitted the new tires and chain for me to collect it.. and this is the adjuster thing i meant.. the wheel I cannot get it to budge.. either way.. as the front brake lever has a fair bit of travel until brakes activate.. where as the rear is responsive as anything.. slight touch locks the brakes on.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trialsbiker12345 Posted October 23, 2014 Report Share Posted October 23, 2014 The little red wheel for starters is called a TPA (turbo pad adjuster) the reason it won't move is because it is fully turned in the plus direction. The tpa acts the same as the little screw on your rear brakes for adjusting the pads but just on the handlebar instead. You'll need to unwind the tpa fully, then adjust your brake caliper a closer to the rim, and then fine tune with the tpa afterwards. The squeaking brake on the rear is normal for trials bikes and is actually a good sign the brake pads are hitting the rim square. Most people like the sound just like they like a loud freewheel etc. the 'Clicky' thing on the crank is called a front freewheel or FFW. This just shifts all the weight associated with the drivechain from the back of the bike to the centre, giving you a better centre of gravity. And lastly not being able to hop high will come with practice. You may need to mess around with stem and bar variations as they will change massively how the bike handles and your body position over the bike. Happy trials'ing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isitafox Posted October 23, 2014 Report Share Posted October 23, 2014 My guess with the TPA not budging would be that the previous owner used that to adjust the brakes rather than loosening off the brake clamps and actually moving the iston closer to the wheel so it's probably been rounded off or screwed in too much (with it being plastic it's very easy to do but you can get replacements easy enough!). Everything else has been pretty much covered, the squealing of the brake pads will pretty much depend on the type of pads being used and the condition of the rim (smooth, fresh grind, dead grind) though I see it's an Onza rim with the sidewalls drilled so I doubt it's been ground. As far as bunnyhops go the geo on that will be miles apart from any BMX you've ridden but don't worry, with time you'll get used to it and pick it up. I can bunnyhop one of those to rear on walls and stuff pretty high it's just a case of adjusting your technique to suit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trialsbiker12345 Posted October 23, 2014 Report Share Posted October 23, 2014 I cannot get it to budge.. either way.. as the front brake lever has a fair bit of travel until brakes activate.. where as the rear is responsive as anything.. slight touch locks the brakes on My guess with the TPA not budging would be that the previous owner used that to adjust the brakes rather than loosening off the brake clamps and actually moving the iston closer to the wheel so it's probably been rounded off or screwed in too much (with it being plastic it's very easy to do but you can get replacements easy enough!). Didn't read that very well haha whoops! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
petrolhead1989 Posted October 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2014 Thanks guys.. OK, managed to sort out, the adjuster.. TPA as its clearly called front brake works lovely now.. a slight touch on the lever, and it locks.. Just how i like brakes to be... Well ive been practicing hopping this evening.. starting off, up curbs etc.. i find that due to the bars being so far over the front wheel with its high stem.. that i really need to put some serious Oomph into pulling up the bars, but that back comes up nicely.. I can hope about the height of a bike thats upside down.. you know.. standing up on its bars, as if you was removing the wheels.. Also practicing rear wheel hopping.. I dont know why.. but it really takes some effort to pull the bike up to hop on the rear wheel... again.. like i said.. with such a light bike, i wasnt expecting it to be so hard.. after about 5-8 hops.. im knackered haha... and they are real sloppy.. like 1 hop a second.. not loads of little bounces than you see trials bikers do.. and i can only get it up correctly if i endo the bike first... i cant pedal kick it on to the rear wheel... I tend to automatically panic, and lock the rear brake on.. causing me to just go back down again.. hmmm... Maybe this trials biking thing is going to be alot harder than i imagined haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isitafox Posted October 23, 2014 Report Share Posted October 23, 2014 That's a perfect example of what I said about how bar/stem setups completely change the feel of the bike. Any chance you could measure the stem? And how tall are you as I had a mod with (I think) the exact same geometry as this so I know roughly how it rides. As for the back hops all you need is practice, the extra long stays will make it very slightly harder to do but not so much to worry about it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trialsbiker12345 Posted October 23, 2014 Report Share Posted October 23, 2014 Thanks guys.. OK, managed to sort out, the adjuster.. TPA as its clearly called front brake works lovely now.. a slight touch on the lever, and it locks.. Just how i like brakes to be... Well ive been practicing hopping this evening.. starting off, up curbs etc.. i find that due to the bars being so far over the front wheel with its high stem.. that i really need to put some serious Oomph into pulling up the bars, but that back comes up nicely.. I can hope about the height of a bike thats upside down.. you know.. standing up on its bars, as if you was removing the wheels.. Also practicing rear wheel hopping.. I dont know why.. but it really takes some effort to pull the bike up to hop on the rear wheel... again.. like i said.. with such a light bike, i wasnt expecting it to be so hard.. after about 5-8 hops.. im knackered haha... and they are real sloppy.. like 1 hop a second.. not loads of little bounces than you see trials bikers do.. and i can only get it up correctly if i endo the bike first... i cant pedal kick it on to the rear wheel... I tend to automatically panic, and lock the rear brake on.. causing me to just go back down again.. hmmm... Maybe this trials biking thing is going to be alot harder than i imagined haha Good to hear the brake is all sorted! It's all just practice like any sport. But pedal hopping will take it out of you to begin with because your having to consciously think about everything your doing. Once it becomes second nature, you'll find it easier than pedalling normally…well almost haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
petrolhead1989 Posted October 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2014 That's a perfect example of what I said about how bar/stem setups completely change the feel of the bike. Any chance you could measure the stem? And how tall are you as I had a mod with (I think) the exact same geometry as this so I know roughly how it rides. As for the back hops all you need is practice, the extra long stays will make it very slightly harder to do but not so much to worry about it! How do i go about measuring it? from the center of the hole that bolts onto the forks, to the center of where the bar clamp is? OR From the weld to the other weld.. you know, just measure the bit of metal thats between the two clamps? cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isitafox Posted October 23, 2014 Report Share Posted October 23, 2014 Yeah centre of the steerer tube to the centre of the bar clamp, I'm guessing it's a 180mm which is pretty long for such a long frame with a relatively low BB by todays standards. If it is, and I'm not saying this is essential as you've only just started, but switching to a shorter stem like 160mm and a set of riser bars rather than flats would probably feel better and bring your weight further back. (saying that though trials bikes generally feel like you're way over the front, another thing you'll get used to!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
petrolhead1989 Posted October 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2014 hmm, i will measure it as soon as i got tape measure fella. and as for bars.. i am looking at buyin some onza riser bars anyway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isitafox Posted October 23, 2014 Report Share Posted October 23, 2014 If I were you I'd look towards some 2nd hand Trialtech high rise bars, much comfier! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
petrolhead1989 Posted October 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2014 personally, i think id prefer to put brand new parts on the bike mate.. i bought the bike 2nd hand as it is.. so dont know how rough its been treat in the past.. so brand new parts would be alot nicer. Okay.. measured the stem.. I THINK.. its 180cm.. could be exact, because to measure to the center of the bar clamp, id need to remove the bars.. so i just sat the tape under the bars, and eye'd it.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isitafox Posted October 23, 2014 Report Share Posted October 23, 2014 Fair enough, would still recommend them! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
petrolhead1989 Posted October 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2014 Fair enough, would still recommend them! I will have a look around mate. and what about stem?? it looks to be 180cm.. So, we worked out earlier, that id need more weight to the rear of the bike?? so i would need a bigger?? smaller?? stem.. cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isitafox Posted October 23, 2014 Report Share Posted October 23, 2014 I think I ran a 160mm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Herbertlemon102 Posted October 23, 2014 Report Share Posted October 23, 2014 There's a lot if personal preference involved, height etc, comfort also. It completely varies between people, for example I'm not exactly tall (5 10"ish) and run 185 stem with trialtech highrise rolled forwards, where's as I know people my height running really short stems and riser bars. Meeting up with people in group rides is a great way to try out bar/stem combos and see if you find a certain size that suits you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
petrolhead1989 Posted October 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2014 Yeah im about 5ft 10 ish too.. no matter if i hop, wheel hop or just pull up the front to manual over a small hump or anything.. I find i really have to yank up the handlebars, to get the front wheel up! Its like my weight is right over the front of the bike... So will need to get it so its not... Rear wheel hops take sooo much effort when hopping.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
petrolhead1989 Posted October 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2014 Been practicing, just hopping on the rear wheel.. My technique seams to be improving already.. Started to find the sweet spot, for my balance point, and crank positioning.. because my body seams to be fussy, and not liking the cranks to be exactly level.. seam to find its better when my lead foot is down slightly, so that once the front end is up.. the cranks seam level to me.. otherwise my balance goes backwards.. My hops have improved.. No longer sluggish hops that have a pause in between.. im popping short, little hops, straight after eachother Sadly, the best i could do was 20 hops, before my forearms started to kill Now my arms are really aching haha.. anyone else had this problem when they first started? cheers 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isitafox Posted October 26, 2014 Report Share Posted October 26, 2014 Yeah, you'll be hammering all those muscles you didn't need before. Once you start getting a good days riding in your back and shoulders will ache as well but it'll pass! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
petrolhead1989 Posted October 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2014 Yeah, you'll be hammering all those muscles you didn't need before. Once you start getting a good days riding in your back and shoulders will ache as well but it'll pass! Yeahhh. Just like the first time you work out at the gym.. your arms ache and are hard to use for a couple of days Ive been trying the pedal hops.. but sucking big time.. i get my balance on the rear wheel, start to let the front wheel drop a little, while its starting to drop, i load my body weight ready, but then go to hop, release the brake and the front wheel just drops, and i end up looking like an idiot, leaning over the bars haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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