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Gu 26''


niconj

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Even though it's not ready to ride yet, I thought I might share it with you. Things I still have to fix:

- trimm down the pads on the front brake (or use offset mounts) as the rim is too wide for these forks

- Put Echo TR cranks on as they have more offset as the Try All and won't hit my Magura slaves

- grind these rims

- put some ptfe tape on the bleed bolt on the (new!!!) Racing Line Nano lever to stop it from leaking

- fix the brake lever angle

post-36046-0-20958700-1423430322_thumb.j

post-36046-0-29535200-1423430332_thumb.j

Edited by niconj
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The O Rings on the bleed screws can get damaged by the threads over time. My guess is that the levers you bought have had the bleed screw in and out a few times, hence the issue. Buying from an official dealer you get at least one spare O ring in the box for this exact reason.

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The O Rings on the bleed screws can get damaged by the threads over time. My guess is that the levers you bought have had the bleed screw in and out a few times, hence the issue. Buying from an official dealer you get at least one spare O ring in the box for this exact reason.

I bought this lever off a forum but I was the first one who bled it as it was new. I have bought three new racing line levers over the time (two of them from an official dealer) and have never had any spare O ring inside the box. Only the bleed thingy.

edit: - Supplied with all red aluminium fixings: handlebar clamp bolts, pivot bolts and grub screw for the M6 bleed port.

Edited by niconj
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just put the steel screw from magura and it won't leak

Tried it today and it really seems to hold up. With the racing line bolt (seal is intact) it leaked when only pulling the lever slightly. Now it doesn't pulling it hard. :) Thanks.

So back to topic. I've got a Kabra 32mm rim that will fit perfectly through my forks and I will actually be able to ride this bike for the first time.

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The O Rings on the bleed screws can get damaged by the threads over time. My guess is that the levers you bought have had the bleed screw in and out a few times, hence the issue. Buying from an official dealer you get at least one spare O ring in the box for this exact reason.

A little update on this. As I rebled the brake yesterday I found that the bleed barbed fitting that comes with the lever would screw in very reluctantly. I then took it out and found that the seal was gone. As I took an allen key to take it out of the bleed hole, I got out not only this seal but another a little bigger one. Is there a seal inside this hole? I thought the only seal that was there was the seal of the grub screw.

Anywho... I took a Magura grub screw and it doesn't leak anymore.

Edited by niconj
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In my eyes to either get very good or very poor racing line products, some people have problems, other don't. Pretty strange..

As I stated above. I have bought 3 new Racing Line levers. Two of them very good, the last one (a Nano) leaked.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Almost done. Just have to get some 175mm cranks and will have to change them old wellgos. Trialtech rims had to go as for the front it was too wide and on the rear the Echo just performs better brake wise with the Trialtech pads. It's actually 100% better than with the Trialtech Rim-TNN ADM pad combo.

Weight penalty on the rear with the Der Kaiser Project tire. I could actually save 250gr. just by changing to a Try All Sticky Light tire but who actually cares...

8.8kg

16414553700_3e659a928c_c.jpgGu 26¹ by niconj, on Flickr

16575592666_d75623daa2_c.jpgGu 26² by niconj, on Flickr

16575584236_cecbe1b85a_c.jpgGu 26³ by niconj, on Flickr

Edited by niconj
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  • 3 months later...
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