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Inspired Console Refresh


ben_travis

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120mm, I know the Console one is a little bit longer, but my bb is lower, AND my wb is shorter too, so my front surely shouldn't need to be as high? Same stem, same size bars, same straight up bar angle.

Edited by LEON
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Nice bike. (Y)

Nice to see someone else with a 2 speed set-up! I had this going on my Leeson for years - 22-17 for trials/ 22 - 12 for street/trials/bit of park. Also ended up chucking a 28 up front sometimes for 28-17 street/trials/park and 28-12 Trails/ Park etc.

Obviously had to add/subtract links in the chain when changing between the 22 and 28.. but managed to make a tensioner that was able to take up the slack between the 17 and the 12.. i had the tensioner underneath the chain (pushing up) on the 12 and above the chain (pushing down) on the 17. Cogs were literally next to eachother and both obviously had to be slightly eitherside of perfect chainline. Had perfect sized spacers ready to be easily moved either side of the jockey wheel to adjust the tensioner in line. It worked, enough to be usable but could certainly be developed better. Remembering the old dmr s.s tensioner how you could adjust chainline with a grub that pinched the sliding arm, something like that wouldve been easier.

Would love to see someone design something properly to fit this purpose! I think it would be very useful to the new-school 24 riders??

Maybe even a 22 -17/16 on the back with a permanent 22 - 28 'double' on the front .. with a chain with two split links at the right amount to adjust the chain for either gearing? I dno, would be nice to somehow make it simple and easy to switch between gears..

Anyway, once again.. nice bike!

(Leon - maybe the w/b is slightly too short? Making you want more room by going upwards? Relatively, when the bikes on the back wheel.. bar height starts to equate to cockpit length no? )

Edit: Well it doesnt 'equate to' as much as 'attempt to make up for' cockpit length .. In the way that it allows for a fraction more 'length'... which might be what youre body is subconsciously looking for rather than the height? Becuase i'd agree - it is unusual to want more height with a lower b.b? And obviously just using an extra length on the stem might throw out the 'bar-to-front axle' balance you may have found equilibrium for.. meaning really you'd want that length in the frame not the stem?? I know youve been riding for ages so i'm sure you might get what i'm getting at?.. Just a (series of) thought(s).. :blink: (which you may have already considered)

Or maybe you've just got shorter arms or longer legs than average? Meaning you'd need the bars relatively higher in either case??

Edited by sharn
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Yeah I know what you mean, build and style probably play a big part too. But I've tried my stem at every height possible from no spacers up to 45mm and everything in between. But a longer top tube stretches you out, lowering your bars, so I would've thought that'd benefit from raising a bit. My top tube is shorter, same head angle, but I need more height. So I'm more cramped and working harder to get my weight over the front. Plus that front end looks so much better than one that's stacked right up.

Life is so unfair.

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I can't really remember the head tube length of the Console but it was/is 10mm longer than the original Arcade one so I guess it must be around the 130-135mm mark? If so, that's a chunk of steerer stackers to lose compared to your current frame. Are your bars definitely the same size as the Arcade bars too? Couldn't really find any info about them other than they've got a little more upsweep than the Arcade bars so you'd be losing a bit of height from that, in the same way the Trialtech bars do:

large_arcadecomparison.jpg

I switched direct from the TT bars to the Arcades and that difference was really noticeable.

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Yeah I know what you mean, build and style probably play a big part too. But I've tried my stem at every height possible from no spacers up to 45mm and everything in between. But a longer top tube stretches you out, lowering your bars, so I would've thought that'd benefit from raising a bit. My top tube is shorter, same head angle, but I need more height. So I'm more cramped and working harder to get my weight over the front. Plus that front end looks so much better than one that's stacked right up.

Life is so unfair.

I may be completely wrong in my understanding there.. was just a thought that maybe with the short frame you've felt the need to go upwards knowing that you definetly dont want to go forwards by using a longer stem (would throw out the relationship between bars and f.wheel) But like you said all sorts factors and watching your getcreative vid the bars don't look that high? Youre clearly a pretty stocky guy riding mostly street! Maybe a slightly stiocky build body means you like slightly shorter/higher bike overall?! ( (Y) (Y) for those bunnyhop gaps. one at 3.30 to rail is a beaut!)

Don't mean to sound like a tool.. you obviously know what you like..and are clearly a far better rider than i ever was! Was just thinking out loud as you mentioned the bike was short wheelbase and i figured automatically no-body runs a long stem on this type of bike so maybe you felt the need to go upwards a bit more? But re-thinking it.. maybe it doesnt make a lot of sense :ermm: Alas, looks isnt everything! Just get a longer headtube on the next one! And/Or slightly longer fork.. extra 1cm means one less stacker!

Edited by sharn
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I've got Atomlab Pimplite DH 3" bars, no idea on geo, they seem to be pretty rare, but they're definitely a similar height, not much upsweep either. I can't see the bars being a huge factor. Wouldn't mind trying some Arcade bars anyway. But yeah mine are much closer to Arcade than Trialtechs.

post-1701-0-77483400-1426419593_thumb.jp

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Cheers Sharn! Yeah I get what you mean, but I've had slightly longer forks in the past, and somehow they needed an extra 5mm spacer! Geometry is just weird, I don't think there's any set formula for it. I just need a fresh excuse for why I can't ride like Ben >_<

I've always set my bikes up so the bars are as low as possible but I can still bunnyhop it with ease, going higher can pull up easier but then it makes front wheel stuff harder. I've tried almost as many steams as Ali and still never got it quite perfect. But I've seen bikes like these with even higher front ends than me so I can't be the only one.

But yeah, proportions wise, Ben's bike looks perfect, the only thing I don't like about 24's is the amount of stackers.

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Where I held my bars on my TT bars compared to my Arcades was around 12mm different in height, to give you an idea - was pretty surprised when I measured it and found out! Back then I held my bars fairly close in which exacerbated it a bit in fairness, but I think you'd still notice a difference.

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Cheers Sharn! Yeah I get what you mean, but I've had slightly longer forks in the past, and somehow they needed an extra 5mm spacer! Geometry is just weird, I don't think there's any set formula for it. I just need a fresh excuse for why I can't ride like Ben >_<

I've always set my bikes up so the bars are as low as possible but I can still bunnyhop it with ease, going higher can pull up easier but then it makes front wheel stuff harder. I've tried almost as many steams as Ali and still never got it quite perfect. But I've seen bikes like these with even higher front ends than me so I can't be the only one.

But yeah, proportions wise, Ben's bike looks perfect, the only thing I don't like about 24's is the amount of stackers.

Yeah, agreed about the forks.. was gona say that actually adding length to forks can ruin everything! Long forks are generally not nice for some reason? Id be more incline to adding to the headtube - thats what i did on my leeson.. purely so i didnt have to have loads of stackers! But my bar height was still far lower than most of you guys running this super high bars!

Geometry is a very werid thing.. So many different 'points of action' as to say.. and especially with trials when were all over the bike in so many positions it's all a balancing act... Then as you say.. theres the riders build and flexibility to take into account.. definitely no set formula!

Anyway, (Y)

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Yeah I think every little thing makes a difference, maybe I've just got T rex arms, anyway I've got a nice chunky headset and I'm gonna try some Arcade bars too, ta Mark.

Ben....how are those levers with those calipers? Is there any difference in lever travel to Saint levers? I just bought some barely used SLX brakes cheap and plan to try Zee or M820 calipers with them, I'm not expecting the SLX calipers to be quite up to the job.

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I have no noticeable difference from the standard Saint levers, Leon. I have my levers pull quite far back into the bars (to try and reduce the arm pump) and quite a fair bit of travel compared to some. It feels pretty spot on to me. Certainly as powerful as the saints were.

I've a saint caliper up front, and a zee caliper on the rear and no problems at all with either. The Zee caliper has the two bolt configuration (compared to the four of the M810 saint caliper), and hasn't had any problems at all so far, touch wood.

With regards the stem / bar height, I measured for 'Dman' the other day and the centre of the bar sits at 105cm. I do sometimes consider another stacker, but it seems to be working at the moment. Its all about being comfortable on the bike at the end of the day, so depends whether your back can handle the lower set-up.

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Nice bike. (Y)

Nice to see someone else with a 2 speed set-up! I had this going on my Leeson for years - 22-17 for trials/ 22 - 12 for street/trials/bit of park. Also ended up chucking a 28 up front sometimes for 28-17 street/trials/park and 28-12 Trails/ Park etc. Cogs were literally next to eachother and both obviously had to be slightly eitherside of perfect chainline. Had perfect sized spacers ready to be easily moved either side of the jockey wheel to adjust the tensioner in line. It worked, enough to be usable

could you still do static moves with 22-12? i wonder what gear do the street riders here use?

i run 22-18 on my hex and i find it way to easy for street... but afraid 22-16 will change my pedal ups, gaps and trial stuff

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22 - 16 is a bit much on a Hex (26" wheels). It's the norm on 24" though. I use 2 sprockets now and then too, for me the smaller one was just for fast run ups that my trials gear wouldn't allow, but it's handy fo big skate parks too, a trials gear won't get you far unless you can pump like a pro.

Edited by LEON
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22 - 16 is a bit much on a Hex (26" wheels). It's the norm on 24" though. I use 2 sprockets now and then too, for me the smaller one was just for fast run ups that my trials gear wouldn't allow, but it's handy fo big skate parks too, a trials gear won't get you far unless you can pump like a pro.

Pump like a pro and pump like a maniac with a hand pump upto 110psi! Might aswell go chainless in a big park with a trials gear! :wink: Its definatly handy having an easy to switch- harder gearing for street sessions/hitting parks mid ride (Y) I hope one of the trials companys can make a nice solution for a few solid 'manual-shift' s.s chain gear options! (maybe using a 1/8 chain on 3/32 rings to help a little with chainline?)

Shame i only got mine really working well towards the end of having the Leeson. Getting too old to be riding across town in 22-16! I found it was actually putting me off riding having to go between spots in that gear! (Or should i say: i was more encouraged to blast down to local spots with a harder gearing!) It was set up 28-16 for ages before i sold it actually. But i was hardly riding it for trials.. mainly a little set of trails and some park. Had the Pashley for trials :)

Edit: Beg your pardon.. It was set up 28-17! It made for a better chainlength..

could you still do static moves with 22-12? i wonder what gear do the street riders here use?

i run 22-18 on my hex and i find it way to easy for street... but afraid 22-16 will change my pedal ups, gaps and trial stuff

Nah not properly - could do a few small things from rolling with relatively short run-ups with a little B* crank then a good hard one timed with a sortof bunnyhop.. Kinda like a B* crank bunnyhop/sidehop/to-front etc. Only small things really though.. like upto lever height maybe? - just messin about sort of thing. Mainly it was for getting about and riding street.. Found it felt nicer because trials gear is abit lost at moderate speed isnt it.. made landing things like 180s/360/bunnyhops feel abit sketchy to me.. like there was no weight. much nicer with a harder gearing (for me anyway) To be honest the kmc kool didnt like the 12.. had to run the chain upside down because the plates hit the body of the cog so it never sat down on the teeth properly.. untill it dug itself some grooves! With a smaller height chain it was fine straight off.

But back onto Bens lovely bike.. On second glance It looks like that second cog is the same size? Is it just a spacer?

Edited by sharn
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