Culshaw95 Posted May 31, 2015 Report Share Posted May 31, 2015 (edited) Hi i got a Racing line from Trials addict and I've had nothing but issues. First I changed the lever blade to the new Trialtech blade but when i was doing that the piston shot out when i removed the blade. I then rebleeded the lever and fluid then shot out the lever. I then got a replacement piston from trials addict gave it a fresh bleed but now the brake is spongy as anything. I bleed it through a few times just to be sure there where no air bubbles but I have the TPA just over half way out, pads are pretty much millimeters away from the rim, im running a booster and it still pulls to bar with no stiffness to the brake what so ever. Anyone have any ideas on what to do? Edited May 31, 2015 by Culshaw95 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark W Posted May 31, 2015 Report Share Posted May 31, 2015 Did you lube up the new piston before fitting it? They seem pretty temperamental if you don't grease the piston up. Also, have you checked out whether there are any minor leaks from the bleed screw at the cylinder? I had to bleed up a Racing Line brake 2 weeks ago and it was pretty much non-stop hassle in terms of it gushing fluid out from the cylinder bleed port and seemingly generating air out of nowhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Culshaw95 Posted May 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2015 (edited) Did you lube up the new piston before fitting it? They seem pretty temperamental if you don't grease the piston up. Also, have you checked out whether there are any minor leaks from the bleed screw at the cylinder? I had to bleed up a Racing Line brake 2 weeks ago and it was pretty much non-stop hassle in terms of it gushing fluid out from the cylinder bleed port and seemingly generating air out of nowhere. I greased up the piston and the release seemed fine and i've checked the slaves aswell but see no issue. I've had to rebleed 3 of my brakes Tensile Tocco, Echo & the racing line because when I ordered the brake I asked for fluid as I wasnt happy with the factory bleed on the Echo SL which I got sent their "own mix" which at the time I thought was going to be mineral oil as my first assumption brake fluid, oil, but i was actually sent water... I've re bleeded all 3 brakes with Royal Blood 2-3 times to get rid of the water but so far the Tocco has been the only successful one, really stiff and a great bite from the brake but the Echo and the Racingline are both spongy (Echo only had a bleed off the bike so could do with another bleed just to double check) Edited May 31, 2015 by Culshaw95 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BJ. Posted May 31, 2015 Report Share Posted May 31, 2015 Could be the lever blade making it feel spongy, the odd shape doesn't feel nice in my opinion. Try a fresh bleed with the original blade and see what that's like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CC12345678910 Posted May 31, 2015 Report Share Posted May 31, 2015 (edited) My racing line master (original style, 1 bolt clamp one) has been faultless since xmas 2013/new years 2014, Has a racing line piston, also the old style one with two o rings, lubed with silicone spray for car window seals 2 finger magura lever, mildly stretched spring. 2nd hand maggie slaves, they're gonna be at least 5yrs old, lubed with 3 in 1 style poundshop oil FWIW. standard magura steel fittings and hose, except for a 12.9 stainless bleed bolt TT 2bolt on a 4play Syringe bled with tap water, all the fittings and bolts lightly PTFE taped. Nothing special and no fancy tricks, but it is the most solid brake I've ever had - others have made comments to the same effect, and other racing line brakes I've ridden (the full split clamp £200 complete setup jobbies, front and rear in this case) feel just the same. Mine sustains a solid bleed for months on end - Good careful prep and PTFE tape is all there is to it for me. Something is definitely amis. There is an air leak somewhere or your fluid is full of air. Locate some LHM fluid from a motor factors, I'm reliably informed it is the same as royal blood beneath the BS and I haven't found anything to the contrary, also was 4-6 pound a litre for me not >£30. EDIT: The lad with the racing line set did mention that he'd had a problem with one of his masters where it constantly lost pressure though what turned out was a pinhole on the inside of the bar clamp - took him/his mates an hour to find! I surmised that it could have been a manufacturing defect from when the cut out in between the squares of clamp bolt threads was machined incorrectly and the wall thickness at the back of the piston was made too thin and it leaked. Was all sorted on warranty anyhow. Edited May 31, 2015 by CC12345678910 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Culshaw95 Posted May 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2015 Something is definitely amis. There is an air leak somewhere. My racing line master (original style, 1 bolt clamp one) has been faultless since xmas 2013/new years 2014, Has a racing line piston, also the old style one with two o rings, lubed with silicone spray for car window seals 2 finger magura lever 2nd hand maggie slaves, they're gonna be really old standard magura steel fittings and hose, but 12.9 stainless bleed bolt TT 2bolt on a 4play Syringe bleed with water, all the fittings and bolts PTFE taped. Nothing special and no fancy tricks, but it is the most solid brake I've ever had - others have made comments to the same effect, and other racing line brakes I've ridden (the full £200 complete setup jobbies, front and rear in this case) feel just the same. Mine sustains a solid bleed for months on end - Good careful prep and PTFE tape is all there is to it for me. PTFE Tape was one of the ideas I had but of course I have to be careful with it because I don't want to get it into the system. I'm sending the brake back to Trials Addict but I think I may just get my money back, get some magura slaves and get another tocco lever as i've had no issues with it. I've had a lot of hassle unfortunately with Trials Addict but I'm hoping I can get the issues resolved Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CC12345678910 Posted May 31, 2015 Report Share Posted May 31, 2015 Oh I just edited and refreshed only to see a reply. Check out my edit and see if you have the same problem, I didn't really believe ithe problem at first, it just seemed so unlikely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Culshaw95 Posted June 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2015 Cheers for the help. I'm going to send it back and see what they say Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bing Posted June 1, 2015 Report Share Posted June 1, 2015 I've got two racing levers and don't have any trouble at all with them. Had them ages now and still in the original bleed form when I got the bike. No leakage and they feel well solid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZArgrave Posted June 1, 2015 Report Share Posted June 1, 2015 Sounds like a dodgy bleed or a leak, great levers when you get them working right. They do seem to have some teething problems when you first get them though I know walker had no end of fiddles with yours before you had them Bing ^^^ same with mine in the early days but now there faultless and I never have to touch them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dngr2self Posted June 1, 2015 Report Share Posted June 1, 2015 Either a leak or dodgy bleed I reckon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CC12345678910 Posted June 1, 2015 Report Share Posted June 1, 2015 They do seem to have some teething problems when you first get them though I know walker had no end of fiddles with yours before you had them Bing ^^^ same with mine in the early days but now there faultless and I never have to touch them. Odd... My lever body was plug n play, like it should be. And has been for over 2yrs. Out of interest are you talking about the complete brake (this style with the split clamp) which is the model released later, or the original 1 bolt version I've got which was supplied as a lever body only? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Culshaw95 Posted June 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2015 Don't think it's a dodgy bleed as I've given it a few bleeds ensuring there were no air bubbles. I've stripped he brake cleaned it out ensuring most of the water was wiped from the system then bled it through a few times. The original piston was rubbish as I pulled the lever and fluid gushed out the lever body just never seem to have much luck with brakes... The only brakes that have worked were my v brakes... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bing Posted June 1, 2015 Report Share Posted June 1, 2015 (edited) Mines the spilt clamp newer version. I greased both Pistons with some spray gun grease and bled them up, no issues. Edit: I should say that I bath bleed mine every time, with a syringe under water so absolutely no air can get in at any point. Means taking the brale off the bike and resetting them but it works every time for me Edited June 1, 2015 by bing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZArgrave Posted June 2, 2015 Report Share Posted June 2, 2015 Odd... My lever body was plug n play, like it should be. And has been for over 2yrs. Out of interest are you talking about the complete brake (this style with the split clamp) which is the model released later, or the original 1 bolt version I've got which was supplied as a lever body only? It's the new style split clamp ones but I'm only using the levers with standard mag slaves Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamKidney Posted June 2, 2015 Report Share Posted June 2, 2015 Mine are a tad lazy due to needing the piston lubricating but aside from that I love mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave33 Posted June 2, 2015 Report Share Posted June 2, 2015 Don't think it's a dodgy bleed as I've given it a few bleeds ensuring there were no air bubbles. I've stripped he brake cleaned it out ensuring most of the water was wiped from the system then bled it through a few times. The original piston was rubbish as I pulled the lever and fluid gushed out the lever body just never seem to have much luck with brakes... The only brakes that have worked were my v brakes... did you do the original bleed? it sounds like air. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jack iveson Posted June 3, 2015 Report Share Posted June 3, 2015 Pull the brake in a spray some wd40 down the barrel and keep pumping Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted June 3, 2015 Report Share Posted June 3, 2015 did you do the original bleed? it sounds like air. I would agree with this... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Culshaw95 Posted June 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2015 I didn't do the original I believe the guys at trials addict done that. When I got it I could pull it to bar and then fluid gushed out the lever... I've put my v brake back on the rear and sent the brake back Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Culshaw95 Posted June 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2015 (edited) I originally had one of these pistons which was the one which let fluid pass it. I then got sent one of these with grease. First bled with water as I had no idea at the time that it was a water based fluid I was sent. I then cleaned out the system and bled it a few times with Magura Royal Blood which I did use a lot just to ensure the water based fluid and air passed out flushing the system completely but still no success and still feels like when I first got it. Edited June 3, 2015 by Culshaw95 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cleep2 Posted June 3, 2015 Report Share Posted June 3, 2015 I had the same thing with mine. Best thing I found is to top whet the piston goes in with water or oil then put piston in and lever in the bleed it gently Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dngr2self Posted June 3, 2015 Report Share Posted June 3, 2015 I still think it's a dodgy bleed. I know you've done it before but so have I and I still muck it up from time to time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greetings Posted June 3, 2015 Report Share Posted June 3, 2015 Don't think it's a dodgy bleed as I've given it a few bleeds ensuring there were no air bubbles. I've stripped he brake cleaned it out ensuring most of the water was wiped from the system then bled it through a few times. The original piston was rubbish as I pulled the lever and fluid gushed out the lever body just never seem to have much luck with brakes... The only brakes that have worked were my v brakes... It's funny how bubbles can "hide" in a brake. I've had countless bleeds with no air coming out and the lever would almost bottom out before the slaves started to move. If you're still having this problem, can you post a picture of how you're positioning the brake lever and slaves? The optimal lever position will vary depending on the brake and this is the most common reason for bad bleeds. With the correct positioning of these parts you'll get a perfect bleed almost every time. You might also want to gently tap the brake with a rubber mallet to dislodge any air before pumping the fluid through the system for the last time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cwtrials Posted June 11, 2015 Report Share Posted June 11, 2015 Curious, what type of hose are you using on the problem brake? I've been having a similar issue with some racing line brakes. It's driven me crazy. I had one Racing line set up firm as can be, and the other one I couldn't get to feel right for the life of me. I do a decent bleed, and after trying that a few dozen times I sat down and figured the only difference between the two brakes was the firm one was using trialtech hose and the squishy one was using racing line hose. Switched the hose out on the problem brake, and first bleed it felt great. Conclusion. Racing line hose causes extra brake flex. Use Trialtech or Magura brand hose instead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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