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JT!

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I want to mod my ademantium x mod so it has thumb screws on the bottom. I have to idea what screws to search for, or what material they should be made out of for best performance. Any ideas?

 

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Edited by JT!
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Those might be ss304 m6×1.0 ×8 screws.. a thread gauge from a tap n die set would be more definitive though. 

Conductive wise you'd want copper or silver plated copper, which are not widely used in general industry. Finding anything better than you have may be a stretch but just generic steel thumb screws might be easy enough. 

You will get used to the pia battery change though ;)

 

Edited by *gentlydoesit
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May I should just find something to superglue on the end... the threads on that don't look the same at all, and looks way to short. Also two of those screws would cost about half the cost of the entire mod. :lol:

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@FamilyBiker

Dripper like air flow? 

They're nice, maybe a little low on juice volume, tighter than I'd personally like for air flow, and made almost entirely of glass so dropping it is always a concern, but nice :)

I had one for a few days, it worked well and had good flavour, never leaked on me either. Building it was simple enough but little room for anything exciting coil wise. 

Not much similar to chose from.. billow v2 nano maybe. 

Edited by *gentlydoesit
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seeing the airhole size i thought that.the veritas i am using full on since months has a prettyy tight draw compared to high wattage compatible atties too,and as i stay in the 20-25 watt range i think a little restrictive draw would be ok.got little boys n stuff,theyre too airy for my liking

also thought about dropping it.if it had both a glass tank and a steel tank section included for the 4.2ml option it'd be a winner

 

Edited by FamilyBiker
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also thought about dropping it.if it had both a glass tank and a steel tank section included for the 4.2ml option it'd be a winner

 

 

yeah, but if you're going for higher capacity why not get a better atty? Only reason for the goblin mini is its size surely.

Edited by *gentlydoesit
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I have had a go at building my subtank rba deck today, coil is the one that comes supplied and reads at 0.5 ohm. However I can't seem to use it at more than 18w vapour is really hot and I'm getting dry hits from anything above 4 second draw, anyone know why this is happening? 

With the 0.5ohm occ coils I can use it at 25w easily without it getting warm in the slightest.

any help would be appreciated 

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OK.  Firstly it's massively over wicked,  if you have any cotton left try rolling it into a pen shape then pulling it apart from the ends. Over lap the ends and do it again a few times. This will 'straighten' the individual strands, straighter they are the quicker the juice will capillary to the coil. Make sure the wick is just resting in the juice channels not pushed in or pinched tight by the threads and not too tight in the coil.

Secondly I noticed that the coil is quite black. Considering it went in earlier it's a little too black. Once you've taken out the cotton dry fire the coil at full power and look for any hot spots or Uneven coil loops. The coil should be ~3mm above the airflow so the juice has little vertical travel to get to the coil.

And as silly as it sounds make sure the screws are tight.. you can get a hot spot at the post if they're loose, which can happen from just thermal expantion, even if you set them tight in the first place.

Most new coil builds taste of cotton for the first few minutes..

Any juice over 70/30 will wick slower

Edited by *gentlydoesit
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This has the new rba doesn't have the channels it has the holes in the side similar to the stock coils. 

When I built it I dry fired and used tweezers on the coil until it was hearing evenly, maybe I have compressed the coil too much? I will re wick again tonight and rotate the spring so it doesn't sit above the posts 

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I didn't realise they'd changed the deck format :S Same rules apply though :) . I don't think you can over compress a coil, unless you've squeezed a loop out of line with the others. Whack your coil jig/drill bit down to check.

What size is the coil wrapped round? 2.3-2.5mm? Might pay you to try a 2.8 or 3mm if you've got more kanthal.

Side holes is just asking for a chimney build :)

 

Edited by *gentlydoesit
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I have that subtank too. Definitely too much wick in there, the juice doesn't flow as quick as it needs at higher watts so you'll get dry hits.

If you want to pull at higher watts you need to wick the cotton as straight as possible from draw hole to draw hole, and not densely twisted cotton either. Here's mine. I can pull up to about 40 watts, I get dry hits above that but I am using 100% VG liquid which isn't very watery. That's a 2mm diameter coil, 0.35mm kanthal @ 0.5ohm.IMG_2130.thumb.JPG.5b7ef280775e07c43ac44

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