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Disc brake caliper


callum199922

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Okay so I have a problem. Just today I have broke my second saint m820 caliper and now I am in need of a new one. What would be the best caliper to buy as I don't want another saint one. I am running a 203 mm saint rotor too. And the new caliper will be bled with the saint lever. 

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A Magura MT5 caliper would be a decent shout.  Mineral oil too so seals wouldn't be an issue, and the calipers themselves seem really tough.  You can pick up complete brakes new for £69.99 so they're not too expensive either really.

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I'm having a similar issue as my pistons are old and don't retract fully anymore, even after cleaning and rebleed. I don't want to use a zee caliper ideally. 

I am going to try Marks suggestion out at some point for the time being I've another m810 brake I found to rebleed and see how that goes. 

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11 hours ago, callum199922 said:

It managed to break doing a 360 tap (no idea how it broke this way). Think I'll get the mt5. They look like they will hold up to be honest. 

Brake calipers aren't designed to withstand rearwards forces, let alone shock impacts from landing backwards with the wheel locked :)

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Pretty much although I guess some calipers will be stronger than others though.  Essentially if you're using the caliper backwards it's putting forces through it that it was never really designed to withstand.

Look at the attached artistic impression, the green arrow is the normal direction of forces through the caliper, note the large amount of the body in compression (inside the green circle), the red arrow is the backwards direction of forces.  Now consider the relative amount of material in the red circle compared to the green.  I'm betting the caliper snapped on the rear most mount in the red circle :)

shimano-saint-saint-m820-disc-caliper-with-metal-pads-front-rear_3941697.jpg

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Yup that would figure, the fixing is holding the bolt slot in compression (how castings like to be), the flex (what castings don't like) would then be introduced in the span between the post mount and the main body, failing at the stress raiser which is thinnest section at the bolt hole.

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http://www.jejamescycles.co.uk/magura-mt5-hydraulic-disc-brakes-oem-pair-id121803.html?gclid=CjwKEAjw_7y4BRDykp3Hjqyt_y0SJACome3TuDo9PCB69ugrn2_R3qcc9C6fYE2WcEUkCeD3oHzH1BoCkvXw_wcB

£90 for a pair is pretty ridiculous. 

I didnt read it properly, ****PLEASE NOTE: This pair of brakes come delivered without the original packaging and have no mounts, bolts or rotors. They are in perfect working condition****

Braketest_Results_INT.jpg

Just found this, the mt5 is pretty much same as saint m820, so the mt7 should be the same or better, performance.

images.jpgdownload.jpg

@Ali C @Mark W whats the difference between the ones that say mt and mt5 on the lever? Thanks?

Edited by Dman
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1 hour ago, Dman said:

http://www.jejamescycles.co.uk/magura-mt5-hydraulic-disc-brakes-oem-pair-id121803.html?gclid=CjwKEAjw_7y4BRDykp3Hjqyt_y0SJACome3TuDo9PCB69ugrn2_R3qcc9C6fYE2WcEUkCeD3oHzH1BoCkvXw_wcB

£90 for a pair is pretty ridiculous. 

I didnt read it properly, ****PLEASE NOTE: This pair of brakes come delivered without the original packaging and have no mounts, bolts or rotors. They are in perfect working condition****

Still a bargain, no bolts just means it's time to fit shiny Ti ones! Reckon they'd be any good on the rear of a mod?

 

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You definitely wouldn't be lacking power :P

Karl - I don't think there's much different between them?  The levers are flip-flop so it wouldn't surprise me if they've got "MT" on one side and "5" on the other, hence it being different in those photos as one's orientated LH and one's RH.

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Shimano seem to be a little stronger, and mine have been super good in terms of performance the whole time I've had them.  I'd go for the SLX level ones rather than the budget Deore ones though (or whichever ones they are that are 'Organic pads only').

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