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TI bolts and are they worth the extra cash?


Jack Heard

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Mainly bling. My 24 is covered in them, virtually every bolt. I've snapped one in a stem, but I was always pissing about with it and I do them up really tight. They'll round off easier than steel bolts, get ones with nice deep heads, preferably parallel not the domed type. With stems and brake mounts I don't take any chances and I've rounded off a couple.

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Ti bolts do make a difference but only if you go all out and replace as much steel as possible.I'd start with Ti bolts for the Hope rear hub if you have one, that'd make the biggest difference.

I use ti bolts everywhere (including brakes) but I also use alloy bolts in a few places (stem steerer, seat clamp, cassette lockring, seat bolt on tripod or pivotal seats, and even my front hub bolt is alloy (arcade forks and through axle, the axle is supported on both sides by the fork so the bolt doesn't have any forces going through it other than tightening ones).

You could look to get ti pedal axles but that gives me the fear.

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Totally not worth £ spent per game saved, but so worth it because ti!

I've gone to the extent of changing everything I can to Ti, bar spokes; pedal axles brake fittings, grub screws and every single bolt. Doesn't save that much weight, but they're shiny and not steel which is more important IMO. Not really had any issues with them rounding, as said get cap heads or taper head type and you'll be all good.

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For the big bolts such as the crank bolts, the ti bolts are definitely worth it. 

As for the small bolts like the stem bolts, the benefits are not necessarily noticeable. And you run the risk of rounding them out. 

There is more weight saving in ti axle. I saved 100 grams from using the echo ti axle for bb and another 100 grams for the ti pedal axles. 

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My main was problem was I bought a big bunch of the same bolts, yet they weren't all identical. Some of the heads were just deep enough, but some were really shallow, too shallow for something that has to be really tight. My tools are fairly shit but it's never been an issue with steel bolts. I've got the Stan Hope axle bolts, they're really good, I'd prefer if they were allen key so I didn't have to carry round an extra tool just for that, but otherwise they're great. But like above, for small bolts it's hardly worth it and just for looks really. Hope axle bolts are HEAVY, so that's your biggest saving.

Edited by LEON
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If you're building up a shiny new bike then Ti bolts are the icing on the cake, But depending on the spec of your bike would determine whether or not they're worth it. I prefer the torx head ones over the socket cap type for the reasons as mentioned, rounding off a £3 bolt is devastating 

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21 hours ago, ItsMatt said:

I've never rounded a ti bolt myself, I bought a bike which came with the bleed screw stuck.

If that's my old bike it shouldn't be, I bled the brakes about a week before hand. 

 

Did nip it fairly tight with a decent Allen key though 

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On 23.1.2017 at 1:45 PM, LEON said:

Hope axle bolts are HEAVY, so that's your biggest saving.

What's the weight saving? 20gr. for both bolts? Not worth the money seeing that I could save more than half a kilo just by switching to Inspired Team V2 rims. :D

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10 hours ago, niconj said:

What's the weight saving? 20gr. for both bolts? Not worth the money seeing that I could save more than half a kilo just by switching to Inspired Team V2 rims. :D

Aye, might only be 20g, but when you've done the rims and everything else apart from the bolts; it's just the next step. The weight saving might be negligible, but shiny shiny so definitely worth it. 

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1 hour ago, craigjames said:

Aye, might only be 20g, but when you've done the rims and everything else apart from the bolts; it's just the next step. The weight saving might be negligible, but shiny shiny so definitely worth it. 

OK. Coolness factor x10. Been there, done that. Not for me anymore.

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