Hope hub fitting options...

[AndyT]

I've got my first new non inspired trials frame in over 10 years, and like usual in running into problems.  I'm trying to fit  a pro 2 hub in this inpulse blast x, the dropouts measure to 134mm- and it is very   tough putting the hub straight in there.

only when I put the chain on did I realize the freehub is just stuck to the frame, I'm no stranger to filing things down but I'm not sure I want to file down the drive side  dropout... is there any way I could make this fit?? This happened late last night so i didn't tinker with it, can the non drive side washers be moved around or are they fixed? 

 

Thanks for the help, hoping to not have to go ffw..

 

 

 

 

Edit: also the hubs bearings are totally shot. Easy replacement ? Quite surprised they are blown, only ridden trials on it for a year or so. Have never opened it up, no skipping problems.

 

double edit: went at it today with a fresh head, changed the cog spacers around and added a thin pedal washer...now it rolls! All about that half millimeter

Looked up hope overhaul , how necessary is it to have the special cylinders to set the washers and seals? Could I not leave the hub in the sun and freeze the bearings, then just plop them in ? 

 

Edited March 11, 2017 by AndyT

[CC12345678910]

6 hours ago, AndyT said:

Hoping to not have to go ffw...

Your teeth and knee cartilage will greatly appreciate this decision 

 

Is it necessary is it to have the special cylinders to set the washers and seals?

Lord no.

I personally have an ofcut of Echo Urban steerer tube (aka thickwall alu tube) I faced flat with a file, but any upturned large diameter 1/2in drive socket over the axle would do just fine a a drift for the drive side hub bearing (personally used a large dia. spark plug socket before now), the disc side hub bearing is installed using a socket (as a drift) with the axle clamped in the vice by the centre section, then the end cap is put on after that (pushed on by hand) then the whole assembly installed in the hub to guide the drive side hub bearing.

EDIT: Forgot to say, after you do that you install the the driver body, push the driver seal into the hub shell using the ball end of a large (6mm +) allen key and pop the drive side end cap on by hand. Now lay the hub down square on the NDS end cap and twat the drive side with a mallet, then vice versa.

Could I not leave the hub in the sun and freeze the bearings, then just plop them in ?

This couldn't hurt, but I've never needed to.

 

As a side note are you positive the bearings are done? I'd find it very difficult to believe you see, I think you're dropout spacing is over preloading the bearings (had this with my 116mm pro2, in my case the hub bearings span fine, but the driver felt like poop when backpedalled despite all the bearings being fine out of the bike)  

 

Edited March 11, 2017 by CC12345678910

[AndyT]

6 hours ago, CC12345678910 said:

 

As a side note are you positive the bearings are done? I'd find it very difficult to believe you see, I think you're dropout spacing is over preloading the bearings (had this with my 116mm pro2, in my case the hub bearings span fine, but the driver felt like poop when backpedalled despite all the bearings being fine out of the bike)  

 

Thanks for the great reply.

 

with the wheel out of the bike- when I hold the axle and spin the wheel it is very tight feeling, like a blown bb bearing (my only experience w messed up bearings are the square taper days of yore).. I'll overhaul the hub and see before I pop them out if they are ok or not.

 

thanks again.

[AdamR28]

The hub bearings will usually feel a bit grim after a year. As long as there's no play, the freehub spins smoothly and there's no weird noises, its all good.

Glad you got it to work, its fairly common for European manufacturers to ignore Hope hubs when they are designing.