Hoba

Inspired Fourplay Rear Axle Installation

37 posts in this topic

I got a Problem with the Installation of the rear axle on my inspired Fourplay.
I install the axle, so it sits tight with the frame. (I litterally sit on the bike and tighten the axle, with both wheels on the floor)

The problem is, when installed this way, the brake rotor interferes with the brake caliper vertically and i cant spin the wheel.
If i loosen the axle ab bit on the nds and move it a bit further down, the rotor is free. (See picture)

But im unsure if the wheel sits secure then...

Inpired Fourplay 2011
Hope Mono Trials brakes with 180mm rotor (IS-Standard mount on the frame to IS-Mount on the Caliper.

unnamed.jpg

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I've seen issues with 180 calipers and 183/185mm rotors before.Hard to tell from the photo which rotor you are running, but it'd be worth double checking the diameter as an easy start point.

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Its an Shimano IceTec 180mm.
Its exactly the size of the Hope Tech Trial 180 rotor i was running before. (same issue here)

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EDIT: Ignore my post, i see where your problem lies now...

Edited by ben_travis

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I've added another pic.

Its the space square to the axle. I touches the top of the Brake caliper, so the wheel cannot spin if the axle is fully up to the frame.

 

 

unnamed.jpg

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Cut bits of coke can and layer it up in your dropout? (Other fizzy drink manufactures are available) That'll lift your frame away from the bolts slightly to clear it.

With that IS fitment, there's pretty much no other way, short of filing the outside of your disc or inside of your calliper.

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Btw, just check your retainer is properly engaging your pads. If they've slipped out, the pads may be rubbing because of that.

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Okay, thank you. Ill try that.

But why is that? Is the frame bent or something similar?
Bought the Bike 2nd Hand though.

 

Im playin with the idea of buy some Postmount brakes..

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Shit quality control? My echo was exactly the same but I had post mount callipers so all I had to do was fire a wee washer under to raise it slightly.

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:ermm:
Ill try the trick with some metal layer in the dropouts.

Thank you for this info guys

 

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Obviously that method is full on ghetto, so what I'd suggest is, whatever you do to one side, do to the other. Don't want to be miss-aligning your back wheel (too much :lol:).

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For a more long term fix, go to a local engineering shop and see if they can lathe the disk down a few mm. Not sure if it'll work with an icetec rotor though, it may de-laminate...

Just thought, are you sure you have the right size axle/bolts in the hub? Like having a 10mm bolt in if the frames designed for 12mm...

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I measured the dropouts, and its about 10mm.
The 2 bolts, wich will be screw from both sides a slightly smaller , about 9.8mm.

I think it the right size.

I tried today layering some small metal plates in the dropouts, now the rotor isnt touching, but it is hard to get the wheel in and out. To alignin the brake caliper then is a tough job :S

 

 

IMG_0321.JPG

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Could you not get a couple of gromits knocked up to fit over the bolt where it sits in the drop outs?

 

Although thinking about it it probably is just a more expensive way of doing Ross's ghetto coke can idea....

Edited by Daviesdt
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Ahh, I see your problem! You're putting your bolts in the wrong way!

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2 hours ago, Daviesdt said:

Could you not get a couple of gromits knocked up to fit over the bolt where it sits in the drop outs?

 

Although thinking about it it probably is just a more expensive way of doing Ross's ghetto coke can idea....

what is a Gromit? Like a bushing?

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This exact issue is why we got some 175s done (it's a custom size) (Y)

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Oh sh...
This could be the problem
I bought the bike 2nd hand and had an 180mm hope rotor installed.

How can i tell what type of caliper im running?
there is only the Hope icon and a 3 written on it.

 

And of course, no one has a 175mm rotor in stock :'(

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It's a Hope #3 caliper, for 180 rotor.

The 175 rotor is a custom size, nobody will have it in stock.

Other option is to file the threads off the bolts for the section that goes inside the frame, this will allow you to lift the caliper up a little - usually does the trick.

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Okay thank you.
So my rotor an caliper are matching.

Ill try to file down the bolts a little, and see if this does the trick

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Adam,

Would hope knock out a one-off custom rotor if required?  Probably the best solution for Hoba if it's possible...

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Probably not any more sadly, could be worth a try though.

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I think I'd be taking the rotor to a grinding wheel and whipping off a bit of material to get it to clear. That or open up the dropouts and adding a bushing on the screw to suit and drop the axle in the frame a little to move the rotor down in the caliper.

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Ive tried the trick adam has written before.
Filed some shimano disk adaptor bolts down.
Now the rotor clears the Caliper ever so slightly :rolleyes:

I'll go for a test ride tommorow and see how it works.

 

IMG_0532.JPG

IMG_1428.JPG

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