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Swapped 3 rings up front for one, now I'm having more issues than I started with.

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Removed the two smaller rings and put the biggest one in the middle. Removed the derailleur and cables etc.
 

I knew that all the rear gears worked fine on the middle ring, so I didn't think I'd end up with a problem, but now the chain will fall off when using the bigger rings on the back and there seems to be a lot of scraping and clunking going on at the back. Never done this before, anyone have any idea what's going on?

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Check the chain line. It sounds like it's a bit out and biased towards the smaller cogs. I needed to use some narrow chain ring spacers to make it as close to prefect as I could, when I converted mine from 3x to 1x.

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After doing research, I need a "narrow wide chainring". Didn't even know those were a thing.

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A n/w ring won't solve issues with the rear mech not being properly setup unless it's the front ring that it's falling off.  Front chainrings from a multiple ring setup have shifting ramps cut into the teeth so it deliberately derails the chain (hence the derailleur), if your chainline is too far inboard when using the larger sprockets on the cassette it will just pull the chain off the front as if the front mech was there and changing gear.  A single specific ring (with full height teeth and no shifting ramps) should alleviate most of your problems but a n/w ring is the better way to go, they generally have extended teeth and the alternating tooth width corresponding with the gap between the chain link plates :)

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1 hour ago, forteh said:

...unless it's the front ring that it's falling off. 

This is the case. I ordered a NW chainring so now I just got to play the waiting game.

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Nope.

So I put on a NW chainring and that solved the dropping issue, it's a little clunky now though, gonna make sure the derailleur is tuned tomorrow but I feel like there's still gonna be an issue. 

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Check your chainline. When I went to 1x10 on my Meta I ended up running the NW ring on the inside of the spider with some spacers to get the chainline better.

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I mean, it's in the middle.

My issue now is trying to set up my rear derailleur. It's obviously not moving far enough to the right, in the bottom gear it jumps between the bottom two rings. But when I mess with the set screws I see absolutely no movement.

Edit: Scrap that, been so long since I worked on a bike with gears forgot which way around they were. Gears shift and line up fine. It all just sounds like a cement mixer when I pedal.

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Have you adjusted the B tension screw?  It's the one that sets the spacing from the upper jockey wheel to the cassette, if the gap is too small it will chunder as the chain transisions from one to the other.

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Hum, didn't even know that was a thing.

But, I did take it out for a test ride and once I got the bike out of the house and onto the road it didn't really seem to sound that bad. First time I've used a bike stand to mess with the gears indoors so maybe it was expecting it to be silent. Also a few miles on it seems to have helped too, seemed much quieter after it got bedded in... if that's a thing?

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Also, what would you guys suggest for a 8spd shifter?

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How old is the chain and cassette? If it's slipping on the rear sprockets at all then I would replace both chain and cassette. It should run almost silent with a well lubricated chain.

8 speed?  Fill your boots with whatever you can pick up second hand from pinkbike or ebay; I would go for xt/xtr level, the materials are better quality and given the inherent age of the unit, more likely to last longer.  Depending on what your rear mech is will determine what shifter you need, shimano and sram use different actuation ratios (the shifter needs to pull different lengths of cable) and you need to match one to the other.  Google your rear mech and find out what shifter you need.  Bear in mind that some sram shifters had shimano compatible actuation ratios (specifically the rocket and attack series of 9speed).

Personally I'm using a 9 speed sunrace cassette, 10 speed xt shadow+ mech and a 9 speed sram x5 shifter, a right codge up of components that should not, by design, function together due to the cable pull ratios.  Putting a 6.3mm spacer block under the cable clamp on the mech changes the ratio and makes it index perfectly :)

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On 5/1/2018 at 2:52 AM, forteh said:

How old is the chain and cassette? If it's slipping on the rear sprockets at all then I would replace both chain and cassette. It should run almost silent with a well lubricated chain.

8 speed?  Fill your boots with whatever you can pick up second hand from pinkbike or ebay; I would go for xt/xtr level, the materials are better quality and given the inherent age of the unit, more likely to last longer.  Depending on what your rear mech is will determine what shifter you need, shimano and sram use different actuation ratios (the shifter needs to pull different lengths of cable) and you need to match one to the other.  Google your rear mech and find out what shifter you need.  Bear in mind that some sram shifters had shimano compatible actuation ratios (specifically the rocket and attack series of 9speed).

Personally I'm using a 9 speed sunrace cassette, 10 speed xt shadow+ mech and a 9 speed sram x5 shifter, a right codge up of components that should not, by design, function together due to the cable pull ratios.  Putting a 6.3mm spacer block under the cable clamp on the mech changes the ratio and makes it index perfectly :)

Pretty new, maybe only been out in it a dozen times.

It's a Shimano Sora mech. I'll keep an eye out and see what ebay has to offer.

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