Jump to content

Bmx Questions


BONGO

Recommended Posts

A great BMX brake is the Tektro FX30, comes stock on most DK BMXs, its bloody brilliant though, seeing as its so cheap, got little tensioning screws just like a V-Brake, all really adjustable & strong, run with a Primo Lever & Odyssey Linear Slick cable makes a reat brake, if your on a bit of a budget. I run my BMX brakeless anyway, a lot less hassle, cant do taps & stuff that well, but will learn them soon without brakes, i don't need them for anything else, i havent really ridden it much (it's a DK Four Pack) but its a really good bike for beginners I'd say, I'm moving on to a Fit Series 2 very soon though, I'll try & keep you updated.

Weight Saving Tips:

-Cut your seatpost down as short as you can really, it will make the difference in the overall weight.

-Cut your bars down, this is down to personal preference, but worth doing.

-Run fairly light inner tubes, none of this fat,strong idea, they make no difference really, unless you run no air in your tyres.

-Smaller gearing, go as small as you can, obviously with a 13t freewheel, only 36t on the front, but microdrive will allow you to run 25:9 these days, which is a fair bit of weight gone.

-No bashguards, unless you really do need them, but if you never use it, why bother having one on the bike!?

-Gyros weigh a bit to be honest & the brakes work crap with them on, so ditch them, spend £5 on a brake cable and your sorted.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A great BMX brake is the Tektro FX30, comes stock on most DK BMXs, its bloody brilliant though, seeing as its so cheap, got little tensioning screws just like a V-Brake, all really adjustable & strong, run with a Primo Lever & Odyssey Linear Slick cable makes a reat brake, if your on a bit of a budget. I run my BMX brakeless anyway, a lot less hassle, cant do taps & stuff that well, but will learn them soon without brakes, i don't need them for anything else, i havent really ridden it much (it's a DK Four Pack) but its a really good bike for beginners I'd say, I'm moving on to a Fit Series 2 very soon though, I'll try & keep you updated.

Weight Saving Tips:

-Cut your seatpost down as short as you can really, it will make the difference in the overall weight.

-Cut your bars down, this is down to personal preference, but worth doing.

-Run fairly light inner tubes, none of this fat,strong idea, they make no difference really, unless you run no air in your tyres.

-Smaller gearing, go as small as you can, obviously with a 13t freewheel, only 36t on the front, but microdrive will allow you to run 25:9 these days, which is a fair bit of weight gone.

-No bashguards, unless you really do need them, but if you never use it, why bother having one on the bike!?

-Gyros weigh a bit to be honest & the brakes work crap with them on, so  ditch them, spend £5 on a brake cable and your sorted.

Just a couple of things.

Yous say that brakes with gyro's work crap, which is 100% BOLLOX, and then you recomend one of THE WORST brakes available. I can and do set up my own and several friends gyro's, which feel a hell of a lot better than any other brake in existance. (cocky statement, but true). They work like magura's.

The brake you recomend is one of the flexiest available. It could well be made from rubber bands.

john

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Best pegs on a budget, anyone?

Don't wanna spend anymore than around £15, to be honest. I had a look on some online shops but they charged like a fiver for postage (which is probably more than fine, but I'm used to the free postage of the mtb world, so more of that please). And other places were confusing as to whether it was one peg or a pair they were selling.

So anyway, best budget pegs for street and a bit of park - oh and the link, of course.

(Y)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Ok so this is probably the n00bist thing to ask, but someone please tell me the difference between a Euro and American BB's. How can you tell what you need for your frame?

Any substantial advantages/disadvantages of either type?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ah right. If they have no threads how do you fix them to the frame?

the same as a headset. the bearings are in cups that press into the frame.

Advantages are the strength of the bearings due to their larger size, and the fact that you have no threads to damage.

only disadvantage is the added weight when compared to other smaller BB's.

I have used a euro BB (threaded into frame like mtb, with smaller bearings than usa BB, for a year now and the bearings are still smooth. Euro is plenty strong enough for almost all people, and you get the added bonus of a slightly lighter bike.

I'd recomend euro over american any day. some stubborn riders won't give it a chance however and say that it is no good. (you know the kind, the kind that don't like change and stick to what they know)

john

Link to comment
Share on other sites

a few bmx related questions,

firstly i want to run a giro i was thinking of this one with this lever ?

im not sure what cables so could someone advise me?

secondly with that setup i also want to run an XTR rear brake, would there be any problems with leverage ratios and cables fitting properly?

and lastly i need some decent cranks im thinking of these? im just interested to see other people view before i shell out a load of money on parts :lol: any help would be greatly appreciated :lol:

P:S im going to run a 12-33 gear ratio, i this alright? as i have noooo idea whatsoever :lol:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

ok, lever (Y)

gyro (Y) BUT waste of money. Get a normal cheap odyssey gyro this one. NO WORSE but much cheaper.

profiles cranks are about the best you'll get alonmg side primo / solid / demolition / wtp.

About the XTR, are you sure you have V brake mounts, rather than U brake mounts like most bmx's.

what frame do you have?? If you have U brake mounts but an odyssey evolver and set it up good with lubed cables, pivots and springs etc and whak some plazmatic V flies on and it'll be as good as an xtr v anyway.

A good brake ain't cheap, but it opens a whole new world of riding to you.

john

Link to comment
Share on other sites

my evolver brake, with spanish fly pads and nice smooth cables is still wank, I can just about get the bike to skid (Y)

I cant see a flaw with the setup, it pulls reletivley nicley (not as nice as yours) , both pads hit the rim at the same time and square. I am using linear slick cables.

My front brake is even worse, its really gritchy, I have tryed to make the cable into a nice smooth loop, but it still feels wank and it has hardly any power.

I am using primo hula hoop chrome rims and tech 77 levers, what more can I do?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

sounds daft, but degrease your rims and pads.

fairy liquid your pads and wash clean with water then dry with tissue. Replace onto your brakes an set up against your freshly cleaned and dried rims, cleaned with fairy and water and rinsed, or better still, muc off.

Chrome rims don't work at all with even the smallest amount of dirt on them, as they are so smooth it spreads so far and coat the rim really thin without you realising.

john

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree with john there isnt any need for a v brake on a bmx if you get a well set up u brake some decent pads your brake will work amazingly, remember this isnt trials so you dont need a brake with instant lock alot of new comers from trials dont realise this, youll need a brake with nice modulation.

Personally id steer clear of the profile cranks there good but i think there are better cranks out there like my primo exels awsome cranks.

What you said about lever ratios, i had a play and tryd to use my avid ultimate lever with my fly brake and lets just say it didnt work at all. A dirty harry lever and evolver brake will do you proud

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have used just about every cleaning product in my kitchen (Y)

I dont think it will be soo bad now that I can drive to the park instead of riding street (wet street :)" ).

But they just feel naff, I aint known for a strong grip either, maybe I dont have the strength to pull them?

I sooooo want your brakes, they are loverly (Y)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

well, I'll give'm a good scrub and ride burnley some time (will you be there on monday?) and if they dont feel right, I will expriment with differernt cables and lubes.

Ps one of my spanish fly pads came apart after an hours use (Y) it was on the back, but is now on the front, shouldnt cause any more probs.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK, a littlequestion from me....

For my next pay cheque I am going to invest in a BMX, I only want to spend max around £500 just to see if I enjoy it enough to spend more money on it, so what pre-built BMX would you suggest, that I can nicely upgrade later in life?

EDIT: OH and I will mainly be wanting to do a bit of flatland and street, MAYBE with a bit of park if I get into it enough....

Edited by Fishwog
Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK, a littlequestion from me....

For my next pay cheque I am going to invest in a BMX, I only want to spend max around £500 just to see if I enjoy it enough to spend more money on it, so what pre-built BMX would you suggest, that I can nicely upgrade later in life?

EDIT: OH and I will mainly be wanting to do a bit of flatland and street, MAYBE with a bit of park if I get into it enough....

spend a lil bit more and the point is, you won't need to upgrade much at all.

http://www.alansbmx.com/product_info.php?c...roducts_id=1729

top cranks that retail at +£100, hoffman jumping bars are excellent sold seperately bars, as are the pegs, wheels/tyres AND the frame.

It'll serve you well for a long time, looks good, rides superb, and won't hold you back.

john

Link to comment
Share on other sites

gah!

I have just tryed to get my brakes better but now they aint working at all! Its the cables, they dont return, you pull the lever and it stays where it is.

I am getting well and truly annoyed with these brakes.

bongo, what exact setup are you using, levers, cables, gyro etc

Link to comment
Share on other sites

front brake :

dirty harry lever with greased lever pivot

odyssey slic cable. Oiled with castrol GTX, rubbed in for a few minutes, then ried of with clean rag. Then drenched with wd40. Housing filled with wd40 until it came out the other end.

odyssey evolver brake. Greased brake mounts and Greased THIN springs.

Rear brake :

Dirty harry lever, as above.

Odyssey evolver brake, as above.

Dragonfly gemini top cable. Sprayed with wd40 and worked in as much as possible.

Twin lower cables, both odyssey slic cables. Lubed as with the front brake.

Chrome rims cleaned with muc off and never touched with anthing except the brake pads, which are all plaz flies.

IMPORTANT....

you must use the thin springs for a nice feel.

By the way ali. I NEVER get my bike wet. Dunno bout you. That will no doubt take its toll on moving brake parts.

john

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...