aener

...But food containers are legit?

I guess you guys are hurting for business with the advent of AI services, huh? Also - why is it always this thread that gets targetted?

I just use SD5s with an FR5 lever. Can't fault them. Work amazingly and cheap as chips. I really don't think it's worth spending any more money than that. The key is to use SP51, as you mentioned. I got the TNN pads and they're fine. Nothing lifechanging. They're just pads. They reliably stop the wheel. SD7 vs FR5 levers: SD7 has the adjustment and so can deliver more power, but I find it makes the brake feel spongier. This is the same when using them with a disc. I currently have an SD7 on the vee because I snapped my FR5 and that's what I had spare, but the FR5 feels stiffer under the finger, and works better as a result. The FR5 is also simpler with just the one moving part, and a fixed anchor. Feels nicer in terms of response, same lever blade shape for ultimate comfort, marginally lighter, cheaper... can't really beat that!

Agreed. I've met other people with different opinions, but I and everyone I regularly ride with have had SUCH bad experiences with Jitsie that I wouldn't even consider them an option when replacing something. (The only exceptions being the handlebars and older cranks that are literally just pulled from a standard parts catalogue and had a logo applied.) Edit: And the tyres. Gotta be fair - they wear fast but those tyres are good.

So I'm fed up of switching my wheel between my Cannibal and 456, and want one for each bike. (Sounds a short task, but each time it's add/remove rotor, switch sprocket for "cassette", change tyre and then remount, and my hanger is an "axle holds it on" type, so it's something of a faff.) It might also be nice bonus to have the full cassette range, rather than just the 6 block. Operating on ultra budget because van just died and the usual shit-show that is modern life. I like technical climbs so whilst I'm not fussy over having loads of engagements, I do want enough. Set the lower threshold at 72, or something like that. Hope wheels tend to be expensive, but because I only really ever rode trials I've no idea which MTB brand hubs are any good. Shimano hubs come up a lot, but then own-brand stuff like Yeti etc. I'm looking for 26" and 135x10. The frame can take a 27.5 so would be open to that, but it's a cost thing as then I'd also need a tyre. I can just imagine some of them are pretty decent and overlooked (like people opting for MT7s over BB5s or Crank Bro's over RockBro), but also some of them genuinely being shit. Nearly 18 years in this game and I'm still a f**king n00b

I might be missing something, but aren't you just talking about wheel dishing? Most wheels will be off-centre. Hubs with a full width cassette much moreso than a singlespeed cassette, and especially more than our teeny little trials hubs. Like this: It's 100% normal to have it like this.

Not wanting to say that isn't shit for you guys, but just wanted to point out that reducing hours or preventing extra hours are very different things to actively stealing back money from your employees' paycheck, and even more so when clearly trying to hide the fact they're doing it.

As above. The Trialtech crank isn't the specific part. It uses the generic HG spline, so any standard splined freewheel or sprocket will fit the pattern. The length issue mentioned above I didn't know about, so that's interesting. Another point to consider is that there's worse freewheels to be stuck with than the Trialtech! I use a Hope hub, but when I have used freewheels, the Trialtech has been the best and most reliable I've had. I've ridden with a few people on Cleans and Crewkerz and heard a lot of skips happening. Maybe that's not usual though - I'm too out of touch to know

Trials riders don't typically have freecoasting hubs

I'm onboard with improving things, but my hackles instantly rose when the first thing I saw was a proprietary rotor bolt system (Unless it matches the Rohloff type which has some existing rotors available? I'm at work so skipped through bits.) Hopefully I can put that aside as the rest of it looks like a fairly solid improvement. It depends on a few things implementation-wise - if they make those bearings custom sizes, which I can imagine they might, it's either going to be a huge pain in the arse to replace them, or just very, very expensive. Conceptually though, big thumbs up.

I'd immediately assume it's got a lot to do with only BMXers really caring about nose manuals. They're just not really a useable thing in other disciplines, unless you're intentionally riding in a style not intended for the bike you're on. (Edit: I'm excluding those fixie bikes for what I can only call "dancing" - don't know what they're called - because... well.... psssssssssssshhhhhhhhtt.) There are VERY few names on the list of trials riders who actually do nose manuals rather than well-controlled stoppies. Nose manualling up stairs is f**king bonkers, but doing a stoppie up steps I would argue could be even harder!

Trialtech 120x20 and Trialtech High-Rise tilted forwards but not super-forwards. Edit: Could be 120x17. Actually not sure.