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Showing most liked content on 07/05/20 in all areas

  1. 7 likes
    Hi guys, it's been a while! During lockdown, and during the recovery from a motorcycle crash, I built up this beasty. it used to belong to Ali C. it's been a real treat for me to take my time with this build - my bikes have always been a rolling project and never quite how i'd liked them . once i'm back up to speed ill be riding it! arcade frame and fork, custom painted in dark metallic blue with xirallic added (it really sparkles in the sun ) and hand written 'arcade' logos, spank rims with hope pro 2 hubs, dmr axe cranks with machined spider and machined and flipped inspired bash ring to suit, inspired pedals, inspired arcade bars, bbb stem, hope headset, carbon spacers, magura mt5's with shimano rotors ( 203 rear and 180 front), hope adaptors, mostly titanium bolts. looking to change the seat and post for a lighter set up, suggestions welcomed! i would also love to one day have a silent clutch rear hub, but they're fu&*$%g pricey! Will
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    Edit inspired by aener. Music is Keaton Henson - Josella. Riding inspired by a lack of inspiration to push it.
  3. 4 likes
    Nowadays, 20" bikes usually have disc rear brakes, and 26" bikes have rim rear brakes. So what is the best type of a rear brake for a 24" trials bike, rim or disc? There was only one way to find out... About rear disc brake: (I have been riding rear rim brake on 24" since 2008, so I compare mostly with the rim brake setup) Disc brakes are standard for 24" in street trials, but pure trials is a very different thing. When it comes to disc brakes in trials, one of the first things that comes to mind is the flex between rim and rotor. It feels terrible if the flex is significant. I tried to make the flex as little as possible: stronger spokes, maximal spoke tension, hub where disc mount connects directly to the flange, strong symmetric rotor, no adapters. The result is pretty satisfying. There is some flex, but not much, about a few mm. The tyre deformation feels much more significant than that much of a flex. A real advantage of this setup is much more controllable breaking than with the rim brake, that does really affect riding, and in a good way. The hold is a bit better with a disc than on my previous rim setup. I also like that hold doesn't get worse in dusty/wet conditions, which was the issue with the rim brake. Not sure yet which setup I like more, disc or rim. But at least disc setup seems to be a working option for me, not just an experiment. About the frame: 1075 mm - it's really long for a 24" bike, 20 mm longer than my previous Echo 24". Gaps and pedal ups are easier on the new frame, but switches have become much more difficult. There are a lot of situations in trials when you carry the bike by the top tube. It's much more comfortable to hold the top tube without the hose outside. That's why internal routing was a must. So I had to cut hose holders from the frame, and put some stickers on the place. Spec: Frame and fork - Frame: Gu 24" 2019 (made internal hose routing, cut some holes on the bottom bracket tube to reduce weight) - Fork: Rockman Carbon 24" 4-bolt Front wheel - Rim: Neon Single 35 mm - Tyre: Schwalbe Rocket Ron 24"х2.1 - Tube: Schwalbe 7C - Hub: Verzin SL - Spokes: Sapim Laser 2.0-1.5-2.0 - Nipples: DT Alu Rear wheel - Rim: Neon Single 47 mm - Tyre: Schwalbe Fat Albert Rear 24"х2.4 - Tube: Schwalbe 7C - Hub: Jitsie Race 135 disc - Spokes: Sapim Race 2.0-1.8-2.0 - Nipples: DT Alu Front brake - Lever: Trialtech Jack Carthy - Slave cylinders: Echo TR - Pads: TNN Belaey with Racing Line alu backings - Racing Line alu fittings and grub screws - Clamps: Echo TR with Ti bolts Rear brake - Brake: Hope Trial Zone - Pads: Jitsie - Rotor: Hope V2 180 mm Drivetrain - Cranks: Born CNC 2012 162 mm - Freewheel: Jitsie 108.9 - Bashring: Trialtech Sport Lite - Chain: KMC X9-73 - Rear Sprocket: Jitsie Alu 14T - Pedals: Trialtech Jack Carthy - Bottom bracket: Echo Urban Ti - BB bolts: Ti M15 Steering - Stem: Neon Wing 150х30 with Ti-bolts - Grips: Pro bar tape - Handlebar: Clean Carbon K1.2 690 mm - Headset: Echo tapered Weight: 6.97 kg Geometry: Wheelbase: 1075 mm Chainstay length: 368 mm BB rise: 75 mm Head angle: 73°
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    On Facebook there's been a clear divide in terms of what we should be doing, so I thought I'd ask the question here, as people seem to be a bit more rational on TF compared to FB... If you're in the camp of "People having beers are selfish c*nts and people who had haircuts are tw*ts" (Not my words, but actual quotes from FB yesterday...), how do you think we should be playing it? I think a lot of my friends on FB are expecting it just to blow over, so we should wait until it's gone - that's not going to happen, is it? The way I see it is that we had lockdown to "flatten the curve", not to stop the virus. I think it's inevitable that we'll all get it at some point, we just wanted to avoid flooding hospitals, which we achieved... Of course we still need to be sensible and limit the spread as much as we can, but we have to come out and do normal stuff sooner or later and I think delaying it will just delay whatever is going to happen (Second wave, etc...). I also still believe that there won't be a second wave, I reckon most people have already had it and not even noticed, but time will tell on that one. Either way, there's a hell of a lot of pandemic experts on FB at the moment, perhaps BoJo should have just employed some of them to handle the issue
  7. 1 like
    Personally I just use Strava/Google fit for my needs. I have a QuadLock mount on my bars and a case with the adaptor stuck to it for my Pixel. All works flawlessly and has done for years now.
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    Lovely stuff! Glad to see you out again Will