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Showing most liked content since 11/18/20 in all areas

  1. 5 likes
    We are also in the process of moving, early stages. We only put our place on the market as a bit of a punt due to the stamp duty freeze and it sold within 24hrs! We're lucky to have a cash buyer for our place and our chain is super short. Moving from a 1905 Victorian terrace to a 1930's semi which is already in great condition but has scope for an extension in the future
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    I can't pedal up for shit, bunny hops all the way.
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    Tom Huntley and Matt Pengelly get under the skin of the trials biking community. I probably won't remember to post every new episode here so if you see one missing, please add it. https://www.instagram.com/the_shin_dig_podcast/ https://www.youtube.com/c/TheShinDigShow/videos Available on Spotify also! https://open.spotify.com/show/5y7sqXmi0nXRyNkcf55rNG?si=Zd-0u8AkR7GzQbwd2wmL8Q There isn't a section for podcasts so I thought the videos section would suit.
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    I really enjoy this also:
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    Obviously this whole thread could be nothing but TRA and we would all be happy, but this is by far one of my most favorite videos ever.
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    The advice was not to worry about it and ride it. It's fine as shown in the pictures/video. Chain line might not be perfect but that was just me being over-zealous I guess. Also, I only ever messed with bikes with derailleurs and thinner chains, where the chain is either dead straight or ends up jumping all the time. I went for a first test ride today and indeed it was perfectly fine. Thanks everyone for the advice and support!
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    Finally got round to putting the infill panels into the van cupboard
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    There are 2 kinds of adapter... If you knowingly use anything like the bottom row you deserve to get injured.
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    I’m forever spotting lines and working out how I’d ride, film and edit them together. I even work out lines for other people. For example, last week I saw a great line across a load of front gardens with walls, gates, a rail and a chain. Rowan doesn’t know this, but I’ve assigned that line to him.
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    This. When calipers break it is almost invariably one or more of the following: - Random bolts / washers setup - Bolts not kept tight - Adaptor breaks first and takes the caliper out too
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    If you buy a chunky adaptor and use proper washers and bolts you'll never have a problem. I'm heavy, I used 203 Saints for years, never broken a caliper.
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    Thanks for liking Rowan's post Dave, thats a good clue! From what I can tell, pretty much in this order... I'm more thinking about drag than lift / downforce, for now anyway. - Block off excess holes in the front bumper. - Vent out of the bonnet. - Flat floor. - Diffuser makes a small difference, better if the air gets to it in good 'condition', I won't bother for now. - Vent out from wheel arches. - Deflect air away from the front lower faces of the tyres. - May even add some streamlining (bits of plastic gaffer taped into an aerofoil shape) to the roll bar. The MSA rule book specifically states you're not allowed to do this for competition, so that means it must do something if you do! There's a reasonable amount of CdA going on there (not far off 10% of the total drag of the car, from my maths!) so if I can halve it that'll be a nice easy gain. But who knows what I'll end up doing
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    Agreed. I think there should be a few more mods. There's a few people that are here a lot and would do a good job. Fair play to Tom and Danny for keeping this place alive though!
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    What’s the most efficient upgrade going to be? Seal up/flat the floor and add some diffuser?
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    If you're watching kyle engineers then I guess you'll have seen this come up in your feed, and no doubt watched it, but nevertheless; MOTIVE VIDEO working man's/layman's aero "course"/feature. Featuring yer man's SR22VET S14 weapon. part one Part the second
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    That looks quick off the mark! Paired with a healthy dose of competent driver that's going to surprise some folk around a track or two for sure! I like Kyle's vids, they're all pretty well done and he comes across well. He only started them again recently after stopping while at Merc. Clearly knows his stuff, and he was chatting about offering a proper course recently (though I expect it'd be at "F1 aerodynamicist teaches you aero" cost, which rules me out to be honest!) TT is still a way off yet, which won't be helped by another lockdown which has made work mental. Engine is hung off its own mounts, but the subframe isn't back in yet plus I need to make up a downpipe and a few other bits before I think about turning the key at all. I'm in two minds at the mo - part of me wants to get those bits done, throw the subframe and factory suspension/brakes back on to run the engine in, then work through tidying it all up bit by bit. The other side of me thinks I should do it once and do it right, even if a little slower. Need to get rid of the Leon first really - may pinch the nice bits off it first but not sure (pulled the standalone ECU out the other night, it's got a set of Corbeau seats, and Brembos as standard which the TT didn't etc).
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    posting more than one. sue me.
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    I couldn't type a comment cos my jaw dropped so hard it knocked my phone out my hand
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    Hey Guys! I've been a little bump lately due to a lack of motivation for riding... So i was searching for the good stuff on the internet to get some motivation. So, what's your favorite trials video? I'ñll attach this old pearl from John Webster
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    Do what you've got to do
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    Uptop behind the knee is absolute misery I had 3 sessions on this and it drove me nuts..
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    always get the tgs feels when watching this
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    Man, that first transition to drone... the drone pilot is pretty handy!
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    Featuring new school and old school ( And a Pashley and a rocket!)
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    Sweet, cheers for the feedback! Sounds like it should all be good, I just wanted to be sure before I dropped that kind of cash on a hub haha. It's still going to hurt, although reassuring that it won't be a complete mistake
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    +1 for the Industry Nine hype train. Lockdown's meant I haven't really been able to do a huge amount on mine, but when I have been using it it's been totally solid. It's really shit going to other hubs afterwards as the engagement never feels as good, so it may be an expensive habit... As far as I know, Danny and Duncan have been using the same hubs for a long old time now with no issues. Knowing that they were machine gunning through hubs was one of the reasons I ended up getting one. 135x10 singlespeed hubs are pretty unusual so I'd imagine they'll need to special order it in for you. I believe that I9 also do machining work for a few other MTB brands, and I seem to remember hearing they're snowed under with keeping up with that contracted work as well as fulfilling orders for their own product so it's likely you'll have a bit of a delay. When Ben and I got our hubs we'd been sent one with the wrong axle by accident, and it took a long time for them to sort things out simply because they were so busy.
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    Cheers guys for clearing this up for me. Thumbs up for TartyBikes after-sales support, super quick and helpful. This is a pic that shows how I would have it set up for the sprocket to clear the chainstay (by barely a mm maybe..) If you say it's fine I'll stop worrying about it. I just did not want to do something stupid and go out and damage the new bike straight away by riding it whilst badly adjusted. And yes, you're right.. I come from a mountain-biking backgroud so I'm just totally ignorant about how a trials bike is set up correctly.
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    Thanks Adam, might give this a go!
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    German bike company mate you it’s a lot of fun thanks
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    All this talk of aero, how much does it scale, if I were to aero the van with knobby tyres, would it make any difference to fuel economy? For reference the solar panel has a 40mm flat face at the top of the roof above the cab, the roof rack has a bit of a spoiler on the front but it's far from aerodynamic. I guess a spoiler nose on the front of the panel might help, should I be adding tails to the back of the roof rack cross members. Or is just going to be wasted effort given that it's a three tonne brick?
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    No, afraid not! This is what I mean when I say wheel tabs (though this may be an Aston Martinism...). Having said that I'm pretty sure 'defectors' isn't right!! That's from here: https://www.jvejournals.com/article/19210/pdf which shows a pretty significant drag reduction by just sticking 10mm tabs on.
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    Looks good . One big change I found when first learning was stopping having locked brakes so that I was effectively 'rocking' up onto the back wheel. The way to do it is to start in a balance track stand (or small correction hops or front/rear wheel shifts) and then release the back brake and put a bit of power through the cranks to raise the front wheel and basically drive the rear wheel forwards to bring it beneath your centre of gravity in order to get into the backhop position. By doing it that way you're in full control and using the motion of the wheel to maintain balance. If you just rock up with locked brakes you're locked into judging where you end up by where your weight ends up and also fighting the left/right momentum that will throw you off balance. The timing is critical for releasing the rear brake, inputting some power into the cranks, pulling up with your arms and then finding the balance point and then applying the back break ready to start hopping as needed. Trying to stay more relaxed also helps as being stiff will make it far harder to maintain balance and also tires you out far faster. Once you're happy with that technique it's only a small step to repeat the 'brake off, crank impulse, brake on' which is required to start forward pedal kicks. I think the important thing there is that you will want to allow the front wheel to drop just a little as a sort of preload so that when you put the pedal kick in the rear wheel is accelerated back underneath you and back beneath your centre of gravity.
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    That's all brilliant info Dave, and pretty much what my research turned up just with a few extra nuggets - thanks a lot, really appreciate your input! The idea behind venting out of the bonnet is to get rid of the air that otherwise would be flying around behind the rad, yeah. I've already found some CFD images from the MR2 and surprisingly most of the bonnet is in negative pressure (I think it's because the 'line' between the bumper and bonnet is quite low compared with a 'normal' car, which seems to have a region of extreme negative pressure right at the front of the bonnet, then transitions to high positive pressure at the base of the windscreen?), so had carte blanche with the vent location. Cut that the other day (and left a Gurney at the front), just needs the ducting finishing now in the style you said. With the car being rear engine, and just having a few long alloy pipes running from back to front in a small tunnel, there's not too much heat going on so I figure I can seal the floor pretty effectively. To my untrained eye it doesn't look too bad as standard (for an older car), certainly better than a FWD car with no undertrays and an exhaust that runs all the way back, but can defo be improved. There are various 'features' with handy holes already in adequate positions for popping some rivnuts in, so that's the route I'll go. Looking from the front... appears my car is missing those deflectors / diffusers in front of the front wheels! And from the back: The lowest part of my exhaust sits pretty much level with the bottom of the sump, so I'm not sure how much room there is to fit a diffuser. Have chopped a ton out of the rear bumper instead, while still leaving just enough to make it look car-ish That image is a pretty spectacular demonstration! I had intended to just add a pointy 'tail' to the rear of the roll bar, a bit like the bottom right of the below pic. The tubing is 50mm diameter so with a 100-125mm tail I figure that will reduce wake significantly and should at least halve the drag from the roll cage. And look pretty bloody weird in the process = win. Any thoughts / data on completely enclosing the rear wheels, aka the early Honda Insight? From Ecomodders forum I can see it will drop some drag, but I am wondering if I might run borderline on brake temps if I do that - the car is about 63% rear weighted and the rear brakes carry out a high proportion of the braking! Perhaps just stick with wheel tabs, plus try to a.) keep air out of the arch, and b.) vent the tops like on the front?
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    I carnt seem to find a photo but Ben savages prototype Ashton in silver i was hoping that version of the frame would of been released (didn't know if the geo was different from the diamondback justice but from what I could make out it was longer with a higher bottom bracket). Biddle.
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    I managed to get the pump below on a deal but heard decent things about the Topeak and leyzene pump too https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/lifeline-airblast-tubeless-tyre-track-pump/rp-prod155451 EDIT: Should add that it’s managed to get nearly every tyre bar one airking seated. That includes all sorts of mtb tyres. After the one that didn’t seat was when I started lubricating the bead and rim and it’s been near faultless since.
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    Rider's eye is a skill you get early on, and it never goes away!
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    Nah - not alone. It is why I'll never be a road cyclists, straight orderly lines are boring, that and I will not wear Lycra!
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    posting more than two. sue me again.
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    Random YouTube find but inspiring watch. He has a few other videos on his channel.