La Bourde

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Everything posted by La Bourde

  1. You know you made the bike nerd inside me really happy? I read a while ago from the guy behind ACSE that the profiles of the pawls/ratchet are really important. He said basically than a freewheel/freehub with more engagement might feel slower(or less defined) than a another one with slightly less (e.g. a "bad" 72 clicks vs a good 60 clicks freewheel). I read too, that I9 industries used the flexibility of the axle to augment the contact path between the pawls and the ratchet on their hydra hubs. To me, it sounds like you thing you have a 0.52° engagement, but at then end it feels like having a 2° engagement under your feet. In addition, C. Gugliotta, the guy behind Crewkerz, prefers to have a chain tensioner to maintain the chain tension constant. He said without chain tensioner, you will either wear your bearing quickly or you lose more than a degree of engagement. I fully agree. According to me, having a high qualitiy 72 clicks freewheel is for street/trial sufficient (or a pro ss 4 hub). There is already some play one the rear wheel due to the disc brakepads moving For trial comp riders, I think more is better, cause the drag is almost irrelevant.
  2. Thanks for the answer. As far as I know, there is two standards for screw-on freewheel: M35 (the most common) and M30 (still used on some cheap BMX, allow to have a 13T outer shell). Using a Shimano 24mm steel axle (best design by the way), it will let you 3mm on each side to fix the freewheel. And then you have plenty of room with a 16T or even 18T outer shell. But it will required some new production tools and a big investment. Another possibitily would be to use the ratchet system (of DT Swiss) with a much bigger diameter. Maybe it would make more sense on the front, because this part of the bike has to deal with a huge load (frame around the bottow bracket, crank axle, cranks). But both are not feasible, much to expensive for the trial manufacturers, sadly.
  3. I had also some ACS back in the days on my Koxx Cheatcode! Always getting loose, noisy, skipping ... hell on earth. Yesterday I rode with a young guy, I never met before. He was riding DJ before. I was surprised how fast he learned some street/trials moves. Then I realized how easier it should be now: the geometries are dialed, the bike parts are strong enough and easier to get, there is tons of videos and a lot of tutorials on YT ... and the freewheel/freehub are safe
  4. Love it! Any idea on the geometry?
  5. One thing I did not appreciate with the 135-click freewheel I bought, was that there was a HUGE drag! Does it get better after "breaking in"? I sent it back. What kind of constraints? To me it the opposite. You can't increase the size of the outer shell of the freehub to a certain limit (wheel geomerty) and the size of the axle is fix.
  6. I won't say so. A screw on or splined freewheel has a bigger diameter (the inner diameter ist bigger than 35mm). Thus the part designer has more freedom in his design. The surface in contact could be higher too. On the other side, having a bigger steel part means much more weight (and having more surface in contact can lead to more drag - but this is negligible). Another advantage to have a bigger diameter is that the relative backlash (play) is smaller. Using the same machining precision, the bigger the pawls, the smaller the undesired tilt of the pawl will be.(better engagement, may skip less) A second problem with a freehub is the hub axle itself. You will have a huge load on it and on the freehub bearings and here again the small amount of space available makes things harder to design. So it seems that having a front screw on or splined freewheel is better. But steel is not cheap (and you have to use steel or titanium due to the forces) and machining a large steel surface even less. So the build quality of a front freewheel is often not that good compared to the one of a freehub (which is per definition an expensive part). I think too, when embedding the freewheel mecanism in the hubshell, one can use its own strength. To me, the current design of hubs (including those with 12mm axle) could be improved for trial riding. This is not possible for other mountain bike discplines because one wants a wide gear range and a small chainring. This implies that a small sprocket is required (10t or 11t with current chain standard. Having less teeth will lead to the "polygon effect"). I think having both implementations available on the market means that none has a big drawback.
  7. I agree with you if you use thin sprockets (and it will be even worse with an alloy body). But the scratches are wide (5-6mm) on this hub and it is a steel body, as I mentioned. I have another Pro 4s, that I use now for 2-3 years for trial and the scratches are not so bad. Before I had a pro II ss and the scratches weren't that bad too. Maybe this is due to the kinetic energy, that can be much important riding street. The chain/cogs on a dj/street bike are typically 1/8" wide.
  8. Depends if the rider is riding some street ... I bought a pro 4s from a dj/street rider and even the steel freewheel body had some deep scratches, so that I had to file them to put a cog on. Guess when one is doing 180 halfcab with 30km/h (with a bitch crank) you have almost the same torque there.
  9. Didn't know that TMS produces this hub, looks good! I found some Novatech hubs. Here the catalog. Novatech produces for several brands and their products are good and pricey. XD262SB-A6A (6 pawls) D252SB-BO-AA (4 pawls) D252SBT (4 pawls) D256SBT (4 pawls) Only the first one has 6 pawls..Not sure how many clicks they have.They are designed for DJ, so they shall be strong enough.
  10. With this budget you can only get something used... It will be hard to find a decent dirt mtb. It will have cheap wheels that you will damage quickly as soon as ou try rotation. So go for a second hand dirt/street BMX.
  11. You are right, he is riding them again. I missed that! Around 2017 he tested some hubs for I9 (a freecoaster hub for example). He came back to CK in 2019:
  12. Did you consider a BMX? It is cheap and tough.
  13. A similar system was used by transition on its dirt bike (the bank). One friend had one and he had the same issue as you described:difficult to adjust or the system was slipping. They abandonned this solution very quickly. There are also some excentric bottom brackets for BSA frames. Trickstuff oder Philwood are producing some. Not sure it will survive the abuse of trials, but it is used on some singlespeed bikes. It will reduce your crank choice, but the 24mm steel axle is the only one well desgined though There is also the ENO excentric hub ... With an exentric bottom bracket, one can imagine to reduce the bottom bracket cage section in its middle so that you get more space to shorten the chainstay. Like this:
  14. He said he wants to remove it in case of problem.I think he ment to remove it in one piece :-) One trick I used was to put a metal spacer (from a cassette) between the freewheel and the hub. Then you can file it and remove the screwed freewheel (or sprocket) easily. The drawback is, that the chainline is even worse. Splined freewheel are such an improvement, but I never saw a fixed rear hub with splined (maybe effigear has something ... ) Ali C. is riding i9 industries hubs and he said he is satisfied with. Like Leon, I would like to know, what is the recurrent problem with your hope hub.
  15. Back on his Trek Ticket: @jamesb: Nice creative riding as always and nice music. Give Mdou Moctar also a try! Once a week at 90%. And sometime an edit with some bangers.
  16. Only read some reviews from enduro riders on some forums. They were rated positively. For trial, I am a little worried about the two screws in the caliper to ajust the position. It is not the strongest place here... Did you have a look at the Formula Cura 4 pistons? They have also a good call. Avid Guide RSC too.
  17. Looks awesome And the Michelin HOT S in the front
  18. Sorry, I don't have a recent picture. Here some of the parts: stem : pro koryak 60mm bar: ergotec riser bar fork: inspired element front brake: shimano deore m615 front wheel: mavic something front tire: kenda kranium rear tire: maxxis holyroller crank: shimano xt m760 rear brake: deore v-brake with old trial brakepads from heatsink saddle/seatpost: khe combo The most important for trial is to have the right gear. I use a 22/18t on this bike.
  19. In one video from Andi Schuster, I heard that the Avid Code do not have pad movement.
  20. Please contact Shimano. My rear brake (Zee) failed the same way some months ago and they told me nobody reported such a failure. It is not the first time I read on this forum this issue, maybe it is a safety issue so it would be nice if other people reply here and contact shimano with similar cases! EDIT: found this thread:
  21. I have a KST acidrop at my parents place. Years after years I updated it with used parts or parts from previous bike and now I am really satisfied with the result. The first change I made was the freewheel for one with 60 (or 72 can't remember exactly) engagement points. Later I swapped the fork for an inspired (save a lot of weight here), bought a shorter stem (60mm, the original one is really heavy), a higher and wider bar (760 wide with 75mm rise) , some new cranks (shimano XT) and new front wheel ... I think the frame and the rear wheel are the only original parts now. So it might sound strange to swap so many parts, but it did not cost me that much, as I took time to find the right used parts or because I reused part from others bikes. The bike is now a good street/trial bike, but it fits better for street moves or in the skate park. I really enjoy to ride it!
  22. It is already designed for a 180mm (7") rotor. One rider I know owns this frame. This is a really nice part on the bike and I think it is pretty expensive to machine too. The axle is aligned with the disc, not sure you need to surface the brake mount then: from one hand it is the same part (so it is aligned) But on the other hand welding might slightly affect the geomerty of part (but the part is really thick though). I think also that this part is stiff, offering a better feeling while braking. It protects slightly the the rotor too. The bike is great to ride, another friend had a go on it too and we both had a better feeling than on a fourplay (doesn't it ride better, it just feels better on the first glance) Normally you don't have to adjust or tighten your caliper while riding ... either your disc is bent or the torque of your screws was not enough - that could be dangerous. But you are right, one of the screw is more difficult to access. One can carry an extra 5mm allen key though.
  23. I snapped a Zee caliper and asked Shimano why this happened. I sent them the brake caliper. After "investigation", they told me the torque on the screw was not high enough and the caliper broke due to this. I was surprised. Since then, I use a Hope adapter. Did you contact Shimano?
  24. Nicolai can build you a custom trial bike afaik. Maybe MDE too.
  25. You could have a look at the BMX race brake lever. Race BMXs use either V-brakes or disc brakes.