La Bourde

I have also a Clean 135 (the splined version) and it skipped after a few rides. I think I bet it in correctly. It did not fit the splined interface well neither, I had to file it a little.

Hi, A few words about my own experience. My first trials moves were executed on a typical XC bikes from the nineties. I learnc the basics this way. Around 2004, I bought my first trials bike: a Koxx cheat code, with a geometry closer to a dirt bike than the current Inspired Hex. Later, I bought my first comp trial, a JB zark. I did not enjoy that much this bike. Many years after the bike was stolen, I bought my first street trial bike. Now I ride the fourth one and I really enjoyed it. But I bought recently a new Como bike, and it is a lot of fun too. It can be more frustrating though, cause it is not as versatile as the other one. I think i had to progress to enjoy the comp bike. I was surprise how difficult the new one was to get used to. A lot of basic moves are much more difficult due to the extreme position.

You are on FIRE!

Hi, if you want to ride in Stuttgart, do not hesitate to contact me. We are a small group of riders (4-5 riders). There are basically three big spots around Stuttgart: der "Park" close to Stuttgart Universität (close to the S-Bahn Station Stadtmitte), TGS/Street stuff Stuttgart Universität (S-Bahn Station Vaihingen), mix of TGS, Street and Comp Birkenkopf aka Monte Scherbelino, more for Comp trial Unfortunately, I don't know Heilbronn. You can also post on mtb-news.de, under the trial section. Hope to ride with you soon! I think one of my friend mentioned he meets someone from Heilbronn. Can ask him if he has still some contact with him.

Really like this edit! The riding and the music too... Dead meadow and colour haze both meet my taste.

Trickstuff power. The Tricksuff brakes have a really good call in MTB and I can tell you from experience that these brake pads are amazing! I never used EBC red unfortunately, but you won't be disappointed with the Trickstuff power.

Hi, The geometry of the current DJ bikes evolve a lot, 10 years ago the stays were 10 to 25mm longer than now. Be careful though, on some recent models designed for pumptrack, the stays are getting slightly longer again. But if you are looking for a bike to mainly ride street, go for a park frame. They have a bottom bracket much higher than the DJ but also really short chainstays, steep head angle. It's like a 26" BMX. You can ride a suspension fork on it. It is easy to throw, still a little harder than a 24" but it spins already really well. The DJ frames have a lower BB (and maybe a longer top tube) making the rotation more difficult. Here a list of park frame: Octane01 spark (cheap and great geo, no tapered headtube) NS majesty park (older frame) NS suburban park (older frame) current NS suburban (it has a tapered headset but a lower bb than the old park version) NS capital (brakeless, but the most playful from all listed) some Dartmoor I can't recall the name I built a street/trial bike based on an Octane01, you can see the result [url=https://www.trials-forum.co.uk/topic/199250-my-26-steel-streettrial/]here[/url]. A lot of fun, an really versatile: trials, pumptrack, park, street ... A street/trial like the Inspired Hex is also very nimble (the geometry is close to the Octane01 Spark).

Amazing. An entry level Inspired will work much better for one third of the price. One problem with this kind of brands is that the customer is only buying a specs sheet. They don't care whether the build makes sens or if the build quality is good, they just want the most expensive products for the less money. The kind of customer that ride a 170mm 29" high pivot long slack enduro bikes on trails that are neither fast nor steep nor rough, but with a lot of turns. Cause the bike has all the cool features one can find in a pinkbike article. Maybe Canyon is targeting this audience. So they need to read "dt swiss", Magura MDR, DUB in the spec sheet. We are really lucky that trials has brands like Inspired or Crewkerz.

A friend of mine has some. I only had Magura, so I cannot compare to other trial lever But I know that the brass part is always getting lose after riding a little. So he has to adjust the TPA screw regularly. I recommend him to put some Loctite on the thread, I don't know if he did and we dd not ride again together since.

It seems that the TRP habe less power than the BB7. I never tried them though. I agree with you about the finger fatigue, but to be fair it is much less than with HS33.

A friend has a Cura brake on his pumptrack bike and it did not feel sluggish to me. It was a 2 piston model though. Did you have the 2 or 4 pistons? I have to say I neither do footjams nor barspins, so I do not encountered this issue with the BB7. I have to do some progress first I never tried the Dominion unfortunately. But your feedback is really positive, so one has to consider them. Brakes are also a personal preference. A friend of mine is a big fan of hope, I appreciate them but I won't say they are much better than other. Somehow it seems that there is no brake much better than the other on the market.

I think it is really difficult to design a good brake but also to produce it in mass with the same quality. There are two other brakes with a good reputation in MTB: - Formula Cura: only drawback seems to be the bleeding operation, which can be difficult. - Tricksuff brakes: another caliber. Really expensive, high quality, a lot of power and almost impossible to get currently. I read some people had troubles with, but I can imagine that after a crash, almost all brakes may have troubles. To be honest for street trial, I guess my choice will be the Avid BB7 now. They are really underrated. I have some Zee with Trickstuff brakepads, I have very satisfied with but I already broke a caliper and a lever and I have to adjust them every two rides, never understood why. I have to bleed them also regularly, maybe every 6 months. But with my BB7, none of this. I have to compensate the wear of the brakepads, that's all. With good cables (slic cable for BMX bikes), I cannot complain. Sure the Zee feels better, but they are not so strong and required more maintenance. I wish the B7 were using nice bearing, to have a better feeling. I know that Paul has high end mechanical brakes, but I think it is too boutique to be good. TRP and Shimano have also mechanical brakes, but not as good as the BB7.

Inserts work well when done correctly. High end cranks for freeride or DH often have an insert (e.g. Shimano Saint).

I thought it was hydroformed first, but you are right, it is a gusset ...

Not necessarily. The welds of the top tube and from the seat stays are further. Thus, the region is not heated too much. But I guess the reason here was to obtain an unconventional design.

Hi, Ducan Shaw rides a new frame: Here on pinkbike Looks great to me, I like the paintjob and the name. Hopefully it is not only a one off and Marin will release the frame...

I had a 50mm stem first on the Octane01 and but switching to a higher 70mm stem made a huge difference. Current competition and street/trial bikes are amazing, but one can't commute or do some long rides anymore with this kind of bikes. When I ride with my street/trial, I often missed the feeling of speed. A 4x/dirt based build is more versatile and a lot of fun. I look forward to see Ali C. riding his dirt bike build. Hopefully his vlog is coming soon.

Nice build! I tried something similar with different frames and I think the major issues for trials moves are the low bottom bracket and the length of the chainstays (on a 4x), but it depends what is your goal. 10 years ago I had a GT Moto, I used it to ride trails but also do some street and some trial moves with. It has quite long chainstays (425mm if I recall correctly) and it was fine for the time being. Later I went for a Commencal Absolut, with 395mm chainstays, a telescopic seat post, only one cog but coupled to a Truvativ Hammerschmidt. So I had two gears and I was riding trails with. It was really difficult to ride on a trail due the short chainstays and the rear wide rim (>40mm). It was my winter trails/jibby bike. Did not appreciate it that much and I sold the frame quickly. I tried a similar build but with a Sunn Forestjump 4x frame, with 415mm chainstays and a narrower rim (left over parts). It was OK on the trails and on the pumptrack and I could do some trials moves, but was not so funny or efficient on the pumptrack though. Overall a good bike. Recently I build a Mondraker Dualen (the last version), with gears on a Hope Pro IV. The aim was a pumptrack, street/trial bike I can use when I go to a new location for example. I used it two years ago to scout around Milan and ride the amazing pumptrack there (in Lainate, if you have the opportunity go check it out!). It is a blast in pumptrack (I am almost scared of this bike ) but was a little to hard to ride in street/trials, the bottom bracket is really low. Eventually, I tried to build a bike to some street or street/trials, do some rounds on the pumptrack or hit some small lines in the skatepark (not really my cup of tea). I ended up with the Octane01 in this thread:This might be the most fun bike I ever owned. It is not the fastest bike on the pumptrack and it is a little too heavy for street/trials. But such a fun ride! Even more with the front suspension So I think you made the right choice for the kind of riding you plan.

The root cause could be a lack of rigidity of your fork, hub or brake adapter. This can lead to some sort of resonance. One friend, who is on the heavy side had this on a steel frame(rear brake) In your case I doubt it. Another root cause could be a bad facing of the fork mounts, leading here also to a resonance issue. The pistons of the caliper have then a slight angle, that will damage the seals. I had a similar issue with an old marzocchi fork (2001) and had to replace the seals of the Hope brake.

Do you have mount the race crown between the adapter and the bearing?

Where is the backlash? Between fork steerer tube and the adapter? What fork do you have? Did you preload the headset correctly? The adapter or crown race may move down the steerer during the first rides, so it is important check the preload again.

Not a big fan of Magura neither. Recently, mtb-news.de organized a chat with some Magura guys. The members of mtb-news.de could then ask questions. It was insane how many users complain about the brake levers. There is consensus about how they perform when they worked, but also that the Cabotecture levers are just a source of problem - I mean there is a reason why every two Magura owners switches to Shigura. All the answers of the Magura team were bullshit marketing gibberish. I know the brand for more than 25 years and never understood how they manage to still be present on the market with such an attitude. They ignore the customer. I mean, trials riders used HS33 for more than 30 years now but still have to bleed the circuit with a special oil, to change the lever for one that is long and strong enough and get some pads and clamps from other brands. It is so sad because the calipers (HS33 or disc) are excellent (good brake power, reliable, etc.) and the brakes are produced in Germany (maybe 50 km away from where I live currently)

Correct.

You can use the adapter with all brands of headsets, inclusive you FSA.

Be careful though, some cheap headsets use a flat crown race adapter (most cheap ZS44/30 or EC44/30), that is not so strong (I have seen some even worse): I have a Hope adapter, it is much better, you just put the crown race of a ZS44/40 headset on it. To me it seems much stronger.