La Bourde

Didn't know that TMS produces this hub, looks good! I found some Novatech hubs. Here the catalog. Novatech produces for several brands and their products are good and pricey. XD262SB-A6A (6 pawls) D252SB-BO-AA (4 pawls) D252SBT (4 pawls) D256SBT (4 pawls) Only the first one has 6 pawls..Not sure how many clicks they have.They are designed for DJ, so they shall be strong enough.

With this budget you can only get something used... It will be hard to find a decent dirt mtb. It will have cheap wheels that you will damage quickly as soon as ou try rotation. So go for a second hand dirt/street BMX.

You are right, he is riding them again. I missed that! Around 2017 he tested some hubs for I9 (a freecoaster hub for example). He came back to CK in 2019:

Did you consider a BMX? It is cheap and tough.

A similar system was used by transition on its dirt bike (the bank). One friend had one and he had the same issue as you described:difficult to adjust or the system was slipping. They abandonned this solution very quickly. There are also some excentric bottom brackets for BSA frames. Trickstuff oder Philwood are producing some. Not sure it will survive the abuse of trials, but it is used on some singlespeed bikes. It will reduce your crank choice, but the 24mm steel axle is the only one well desgined though There is also the ENO excentric hub ... With an exentric bottom bracket, one can imagine to reduce the bottom bracket cage section in its middle so that you get more space to shorten the chainstay. Like this:

He said he wants to remove it in case of problem.I think he ment to remove it in one piece :-) One trick I used was to put a metal spacer (from a cassette) between the freewheel and the hub. Then you can file it and remove the screwed freewheel (or sprocket) easily. The drawback is, that the chainline is even worse. Splined freewheel are such an improvement, but I never saw a fixed rear hub with splined (maybe effigear has something ... ) Ali C. is riding i9 industries hubs and he said he is satisfied with. Like Leon, I would like to know, what is the recurrent problem with your hope hub.

Back on his Trek Ticket: @jamesb: Nice creative riding as always and nice music. Give Mdou Moctar also a try! Once a week at 90%. And sometime an edit with some bangers.

Only read some reviews from enduro riders on some forums. They were rated positively. For trial, I am a little worried about the two screws in the caliper to ajust the position. It is not the strongest place here... Did you have a look at the Formula Cura 4 pistons? They have also a good call. Avid Guide RSC too.

Looks awesome And the Michelin HOT S in the front

Sorry, I don't have a recent picture. Here some of the parts: stem : pro koryak 60mm bar: ergotec riser bar fork: inspired element front brake: shimano deore m615 front wheel: mavic something front tire: kenda kranium rear tire: maxxis holyroller crank: shimano xt m760 rear brake: deore v-brake with old trial brakepads from heatsink saddle/seatpost: khe combo The most important for trial is to have the right gear. I use a 22/18t on this bike.

In one video from Andi Schuster, I heard that the Avid Code do not have pad movement.

Please contact Shimano. My rear brake (Zee) failed the same way some months ago and they told me nobody reported such a failure. It is not the first time I read on this forum this issue, maybe it is a safety issue so it would be nice if other people reply here and contact shimano with similar cases! EDIT: found this thread:

I have a KST acidrop at my parents place. Years after years I updated it with used parts or parts from previous bike and now I am really satisfied with the result. The first change I made was the freewheel for one with 60 (or 72 can't remember exactly) engagement points. Later I swapped the fork for an inspired (save a lot of weight here), bought a shorter stem (60mm, the original one is really heavy), a higher and wider bar (760 wide with 75mm rise) , some new cranks (shimano XT) and new front wheel ... I think the frame and the rear wheel are the only original parts now. So it might sound strange to swap so many parts, but it did not cost me that much, as I took time to find the right used parts or because I reused part from others bikes. The bike is now a good street/trial bike, but it fits better for street moves or in the skate park. I really enjoy to ride it!

It is already designed for a 180mm (7") rotor. One rider I know owns this frame. This is a really nice part on the bike and I think it is pretty expensive to machine too. The axle is aligned with the disc, not sure you need to surface the brake mount then: from one hand it is the same part (so it is aligned) But on the other hand welding might slightly affect the geomerty of part (but the part is really thick though). I think also that this part is stiff, offering a better feeling while braking. It protects slightly the the rotor too. The bike is great to ride, another friend had a go on it too and we both had a better feeling than on a fourplay (doesn't it ride better, it just feels better on the first glance) Normally you don't have to adjust or tighten your caliper while riding ... either your disc is bent or the torque of your screws was not enough - that could be dangerous. But you are right, one of the screw is more difficult to access. One can carry an extra 5mm allen key though.

I snapped a Zee caliper and asked Shimano why this happened. I sent them the brake caliper. After "investigation", they told me the torque on the screw was not high enough and the caliper broke due to this. I was surprised. Since then, I use a Hope adapter. Did you contact Shimano?

Nicolai can build you a custom trial bike afaik. Maybe MDE too.

You could have a look at the BMX race brake lever. Race BMXs use either V-brakes or disc brakes.

A trials (like Danny MacAskill) or a time trial bike?

Hi, Like you, I came from MTB as I started to ride trials.I still ride a lot of enduro/all mountain, pumptrack and sometimes bikepark, skatepark, dirt ... I own 650b and 26" and even a 24" race bmx. 1. Most of the people I ride with use a 24" Street/trial, so I had the opportunity to test one. I don't like 24" street/trial. It is nice for rotations,but I have the impression it is even less a normal bike. You will let roll a 26" more on obstacles than a 24". You will hop more on a 24". But I think a 24" is still reasonable, it is more a personal preference. Another anecdote: I had two 20" race BMXes and as I said, I now own a 24" race BMX. If I had to pick one again, I will go for the second 20" BMX. It was difficult for me to adapt to the 24" (after many months it is OK though), much more difficult than to the 20". I guess the problem is, that the difference between a 26" dj and 24" bmx is too small. On a 20", my body directly noticed the difference and adapted. I am 1,78m. 2. Can't help you on that one. Only thing I heard was that the Arcade is more like a BMX (easier on the front wheel), the Fourplay is really stiff. 3. I hate the Magura lever. It feels weak and not stiff. A lot of riders change for a Shimano lever. But the brakes are great, powerfull for sure, more powerfull or at least less progressive than the Shimano (even Saint). I use Shimano Zee with Trickstuff brakepads and I am really happy with. The Formula Cura 4 pistons have also a good call. 4. In trial or street/trial, the geometry, the weight and stiffness make difference. But honestly, an Inspired flow with the right bar and stem will be much better to ride than a skye with the wrong components. You need good brakes and a good freewheel. Now the cheap freewheels are good enough and you can use mechanical brake or even V-brakes and have a more than decent breaking. Strong wheels are also important as soon as you start to ride well. So if you envisage an used bike, you can buy a recent one (2-3 years old) mid range, much cheaper and swap the parts that don't fit you. I guess the difference between a Skye and a Fourplay is really small, between a Flow and Fourplay not that important, but between a cheap Onza and Fourplay, you will have to swap a lot of parts and the geometry will make a noticeable difference.

According to his patreon, his YT channel has been hacked. :-(

I ride a 26" street/trial bike. I have a DT swiss 560 rim. The inner width is 30mm, outter width 35mm. The tyre is a Maxxis Holy Roller in 2.4. I'm really struggling with gaps: I still do big mistakes and hit edges badly. I want to improve my riding and I think tubeless may help there.

Hi, would like to know if some of you are riding tubeless with low pressure. For example around 1.8bar - 25psi (I know Ali C. is riding tubeless but also something like 3,5bar). Do you use some foam? Do your tyres loose pressure on some tricks? I envisage to ride tubeless because I want to improve my gap skills and currently I repair my tube once a week.... Years ago I tried tubeless in enduro/DH and was not really convinced.

This one seems to be a 24", right. I don't know exactly if the spark frame changed. I noticed that the old builds have 24" wheels but Octane01 described the current model as a 26".

I used to have LizardSkin DSP - an alternative to the ESI. Nice the first weeks/months but after some riding, the form changed and the foam was really thin at the end of the grips, so that they were not longer comfy: I changed them for PRO dual lock. Not sure this will happen with the ESI. At the Eurobike I saw some nice grips from ODI: F-1 SERIES VAPOR GRIPS. I loved the feeling (could not really test them though), but there is no lock on merchanism :-( Maybe glue them?

I got the first generation of the tapered for too (black). This is a big fail from inspired to be honest. I have a narrow rim (internal width is 2x) and I run an Onza XIII in 2.25. It fits. But it is impossible to run the hose through the steerer, there is not enough place at the end of it! Amazing for a fork that costs around 200 GBP! The new model is longer. I think the hose will fit.