spaceman

Speaking of removing paint off the rim, how do I remove the tar off my rim? my rim is smooth, no grind, so it should be pretty easy to remove the tar. But how do I go about removing it? Would thinner work?

bang.

tent.

Hmm, he didn't drill his brake clamps...

Finally something makes sense here! And is the game still on? haha

Someone on pinkbike has done it before. But I'm not too sure of the feedback.

They are really heavy too.

That's a sankukai bar from 24bicycles, and I think it's the NS bikes quark pro stem. I rode a mod and a 24 street/jump frame. I decided I had enough and I wanted to ride street-trials all the way. So I sold both and got the 24uk. I find that Samoon quite ugly. It's good - short chainstays, light in weight, but the looks of it is just not right. The seat tube protrudes out too much. I tried my friend's one, it rides nice. But I would say the best street/jump/park frame is from Tonic Fabrication. Tonic's workmanship is just superb. Tonic Fab Howie (but 26'' only) I like the small dropouts, and the disc mounts. Very neat. Tonic Fab Fall Guy - 24''. Uses bmx hub.

I saw it on some street frames before - it's a really good idea. But the bolt for the trials bike is a bit too big. He should have made the bolt hollow too.

Well, it's just too heavy (for trials). 1kg for single ply, and 1.25kg for dual ply. I used it for street last time. But it's one tough tyre!

Cool, no tensioner!

Looking very good! Except for that 1kg front tyre And what fork is that? Looks small and nice. Edit: Oops, got it. VIZ fork.

I'll be changing the drive side crank arm to a black monty from my friend (deng crank spline fitting is loose, lol). I use a short stem cos all the while since I started riding till now it has always been a short stem. I think it should help, shorter means faster reaction, higher bar also helps you to pull easier because higher bars makes the bike closer to you. However, a higher bar also means your bike takes up more space and your front wheel will be lower when you pull to your "overshot" point. So it may reduce your bunnyhop height. high bar = pull easier low bar = pull higher

Same here! I changed my gear ratio from 21:15 to 21:16, and now I don't have to use the tensioner at all, the tension is just nice. Soon I would be changing to 18:14 and I hope I don't have to use the tensioner too.

That is one nasty fall! I wanted to get Rock pads at first, but thank goodness I got Heatsink

What are the advantages of running the maggy below the seat stay? And that's a really nice frame, I love the grind plate welded below the chain stay.

Hollow bolts?

Hmm, I just thought of something. If you use hairspray to hold the grip in place, and then you ride in the wet, wouldn't the water "dissolve" the hairspray? It happened to a few guys who did it at my side, xc riders mostly.

I'm using the 74kingz too, and I also have problems keeping the wheel straight/dished. The wheel seems to be dished to one side cos the dropouts are "forced" out due to the tensioner being wedged there. I'm using a pro2 trial bolt on. Does anyone have this problem too? Or rather, is it normal? It's quite troublesome cos I have to offset the magura slave cylinder too (one being more inwards than the other). My friend is running a 74kingz with a qr for 3 months, so far the chain only skipped off twice.

I can't imagine if it breaks or snaps, and all those bits of carbon get stuck into your skin... I would rather say that frame is more of a piece of art. haha.

Well, the person behind Rockman is a master class rider and if I'm not wrong his ranking was once top 10 in the world. So I'm sure frame designs would be tested thoroughly. I'm sure he wouldn't let the name Rockman go down the drain because of an unproven frame, and since so many of you guys are using Rock pads too I also wish they have a mod frame...

Yeah, I realised that too. Everytime I look at my cranks I feel like using oven cleaner to make it silver.

My goodness, even the hub was not spared.