psycholist

That's exactly what I have ... When I got into trials there were no affordable parts rated for trials use (And not a lot of unaffordable ones either - I wanted Martyn Ashton's Cannondale badly as it seemed to be perfect for trials use - It was only years later I found out that he snapped lots of them, in no small part because they weren't really designed for trials, so having one of these bikes would probably have left me poorer with replacement costs), so you just had to accept that stuff would snap every so often and hope you had enough money to replace it when it did... Currently my bike has cost me quite a few brake pads, but very little else ... Modern trials frames will take a hell of a beating before breaking, so cost of ownership is lower and good frames are available second hand .

To clarify: Oil/light grease to lube the seals before a water bleed...

Use ordinary oil or very light grease rather than DOT4. Mostly keep the DOT 4 away from any Magura seals.

DOT 4 is a really bad idea - it'll more than likely eat your seals. If you've nothing else to use try bleeding with water...

I have LHM and have been using it for years - it's indistinguishable (More or less) from Magura oil. Try a water bleed - I reckon that's where I'll go with my Maguras as soon as they develop a leak (Which may be never based on previous experience). Less drag at the lever and a quicker piston return with water.

The reason trials seems expensive in many cases is because other sports are subsidised to make them easier to get in to either by government grants/school fundraising/senior club members paying over the odds to make junior club member fees affordable etc. How many parents think nothing of spending several hundred pounds on soccer gear for their children (Updating it each time the team strip changes) as well as driving them to and from matches and related events, but would still balk at spending a similar amount to get a trials bike. Trials is cheap enough that just about anyone with a full time job and no other big financial commitments can easily afford it, especially with the sport being big enough now to have a second hand market and the parts available being pretty durable. Imagine the expense and difficulty of getting into playing soccer if it wasn't already around and deliberately made accessible to as many people as possible - step one would be to buy a field near where you live, get it leveled and grassed correctly and employ a groundskeeper to maintain it... Not cheap at all - and that's before you get a team together or possibly 2 teams in order that a match can take place ... If you're not earning, pretty much no sport is affordable without subsidisation though...

If the spline allows the sprocket to be flipped then it's definitely worth a try. Most chainline adjustments for singlespeed hubs are sorted by changing the BB axle length though...

Measure the length of the current axle and get the same again if the chain line is correct...

But then you'll get worse feedback... I'm devil's advocating here BTW. I'm pretty sure there isn't a single poster to this forum who wouldn't consider scamming another forum user as a barely forgiveable crime. Most people here are honestly trying to help each other and the sport of trials and it's great to see .

Based on how the Olympics works, they'll probably come up with their own rules anyway (Cross country is now abbreviated to XCO by the UCI, meaning Olympic XC as they changed their requirements for XC races to match the IOC's needs). For Olympic trials I'd guess they'll land nearer the UCI rules, for no other reason than that they already deal with the UCI for other cycling events. Provided it's not a complete TGS fest it'll make for great TV . I'd like to see a mix of natural and built/street sections, combining the best of both worlds - the street stuff would hopefully make viewers think about the possibilities outside their own door. As for female competitors, definitely a valid concern for the Olympic folks - does anyone have an idea of the male:female ratio in trials generally or in competition entries? I'm guessing it's pretty skewed compared to most sports with good media coverage - wonder has it anything to do with shinjuries ... Looking at this forum there are 60 members listed as female (And based on some of the user names quite a few of them are probably male), with 2400 or so male members, so probably worse than 40:1 unless there are loads of girls posting here as male, which is a possibility if they're looking for sensible replies, given the responses I've seen to female riders on other (Not even trials) cycling forums...

Since the Avids are post mount brakes and have side to side adjustment, the caliper can be mounted with one end slightly closer to the wheel than the other, allowing for the hub being off line. Having the hub off line probably isn't a good way to begin with the setup though... Vertical dropouts and a tensioner seems like a better idea where disks are involved, but I prefer stock bikes to begin with ...

I don't follow the logic in this one? The point was that if you want to sell a frame that's already cracked, you'll get a much better price if the buyer can't see the cracks...

When I posted I either hadn't refreshed the page in a while and missed the frames origins being mentioned or skimmed over the relevant posts. For this reason when I posted I didn't know who was selling it. I've seen and heard of it being done before where sellers offer a respray before the buyer has a chance to look over a frame, allowing all sorts of damage to be covered for long enough so that by the time the cracks show through the new paint, the seller is long gone or can argue the new buyer cracked the frame on his own. Don't take it personally - it was not intended as a personal attack (Given that to reiterate I didn't know who was selling the frame when I posted). I would still apply it as a general rule though, any trials part being sold second hand is guaranteed to have had a hard life .

I'm pretty sure they've given up on the amateur aspect to the Olympic games a long time ago. Given all the big names competing in the Olympics have multi-million pound endorsement contracts and set the world standard for their sports, I'm pretty sure they're pro's. Anyone remember the 1996 Olympics when XC was first introduced and Hans Rey and a bunch of others did a trials demo as part of the closing ceremony - I'm pretty sure I have it on video somewhere... I'd definitely support encouraging trials into the Olympics - compared to the expense of making the kayaking course for example, trials would be cheap and easy to set up, as well as probably scoring up there with gymnastics as a sport people who know nothing about it can watch and be entertained and impressed by as a display of precision, skill, balance and power. Since there's every possibility that the only reason events where out and out aerobic output/anaerobic power are paramount are not being marred by drug use this Olympics is because the Olympic testing isn't as stringent as what the UCI has had to start using, hopefully there's a shift in the interests of sports fans from watching sports that test the limits of performance to limits of skill. DH BMX getting in this year bodes very well for a space being made for trials in the future (Provided there's a good response to the BMX of course)... My name is Cormac Eason, add me to the list ...

Be careful the respray isn't to cover cracks coming from the drilled holes...

I'm pretty sure there was a thread asking exactly this question within the past couple of weeks on this forum... My answer would be yes...

I still vote for the seal mentioned in step 20 on the walkthrough being out of place and creating extra drag (If you run a bashguard you won't be able to see it or get at it without taking the freewheel off the crank or dismantling the freewheel again. My ENO is so drag free that with no chain you can see the sprocket move backwards slightly after being spun as the pawls push against the ratchet ring inside the sprocket. Given it's runs on a sealed Enduro bearing, that shouldn't be the cause of the drag anyway...

A couple of months ago I started sidehopping the opposite way to my lead foot (The officially correct way since it allows you to get closer to the wall before taking off) after spending the previous decade+ sidehopping in the other direction because it was easier to hop sideways in the direction of my forward foot. It takes some getting used to to change sides, but currently I'm can clear 26" in either direction (which is almost as big as my sidehops have ever been) over a tape and am still working on developing any kind of a tuck or loading the front wheel to pivot the bike onto obstacles, so I'm not dissatisfied with progress so far. I'm still a lot more confident hopping on to things in the direction of my lead foot, but I can see the technical benefits of going in the other direction. I'll continue practicing hops in both directions from now on... Which foot you lead with or direction you hop in shouldn't affect whether you can tuck either unless your legs aren't flexible enough to tuck down to both sides of the bike.

Did you leave it on the crank while you were working on it? If you don't take it off it's easy for the seal on the back of the freewheel to move off centre and rub against the outer part of the freewheel when you reassemble it. Once I took the freewheel off the cranks and reassembled the seal correctly (Often just taking the freewheel off will centre it) it spun freely again.

The last order I got from CRC was a next day delivery that took a full working week to arrive ... I've yet to have a single complaint about Tarty's service (And have plenty of reason to compliment it - not only do they answer their phone, but they know what they're talking about when you start asking questions too ). If CRC win it this year something is horribly wrong with the voting they're using ...

Have a look at the Magura website and check the piston diameters in the brakes. Magura levers will give a big power drop on all of them except possibly the Julie.

Looks like incitement to rock out with your cock out if ever I heard some ... Death grip is where you go for stuff without covering the brakes - it concentrates the mind wonderfully... Learning to sidehop in the opposite direction to my usual and doing pigeons onto narrow stuff have been obsessing me lately ...

Mavic would do very well to make trials rims - thanks to disk brakes I've been running the same D521 rims on my hardtail since 2002, and the rim is still as good as new (Rear's on it's third hub though) so they're not getting a lot of repeat rim sales then... Mavic have started pushing their wheelsets for this reason AFAIK as the bearings/freewheels in the wheels crap themselves before the rim needs replacing, so people get persuaded into buying a whole new wheel when all they really wanted was a part for the hub (Especially when the difficulty in getting some spares from Mavic is accounted for)... The trials market is one of the last high end markets where rims will wear out through grinding even if people aren't tacoing them and where they could unquestionably be competitive - and it's not like France has a shortage of top class trials riders either... Please Mavic - start making trials rims - based on their naming convention it could be called the T746 ...

The Halo and Superleggera are exactly the same hub. You'll pay 10 or £20 more for the one with Halo written on it and you don't get a QR skewer with the Halo AFAIK.

Was the bubble coming from the bottom of the reservoir up through the oil or coming through a hole in the casing of the lever itself? If it's coming through the oil the there's still air trapped in the system, which means there's either a leak somewhere for the air to get back into the brake or the bleed isn't carrying the air through and clearing it out of the system. Hopefully all you're looking at is a bubble trapped in the lever somewhere. Keeping the lid off the reservoir pull the lever and let it go suddenly a few times - this seems to drive bubbles through the system if they're near the feed hole to the reservoir in the first place. Hopefully after doing this a few times the bubbles will stop appearing and the brake will work properly, leaving you to top the reservoir up right to the top and roll the diaphragm into the oil to eliminate air bubbles before putting the cap on...