psycholist

Strong/light/cheap - pick any two Not sure you'd get a decent width tyre into that fork either - It's probably fine if you don't do hooks, fronthops or wheelswap up things... There's a possibility it's for a hybrid bike too - looks quite long, though 410mm seems about right for a MTB fork for a suspension corrected frame.

Something like this? Sabadell north of Barcelona in Spain - look at it full size to get all the stuff in the background Or my back garden:

Pump the tyre until the tube is just big enough to fill the tyre. Then work around the tyre on both sides pushing the tyre bead on both sides up or down on the rim so that it's even. Then once you've pumped it to the pressure you use it at it should be fine. If not you either need a tighter tyre or a wider rim. I haven't compared 20" and 19" tyres (Being a stock rider), but I'd guess a 20" wouldn't fit at all.

What's back wheel surfing? 65m is hardly the manual record and that's the only thing I can think of it might be...

If the initial small diameter thread was strong enough for most people (Which they seem to be - I've never seen a 4 bolt magura mount strip), a helicoil mounted in a bigger diameter thread that sits higher off the bolt cut into the same metal should be massively stronger - think about the area a bigger thread is acting on the the material it's screwed into. Unless the hole for the helicoiled thread ends up very near the edge of the part it's installed in it should be a lot stronger. Because steel is so much stronger than aluminium a steel bolt in a steel coil fitted to aluminium may well fail by having the steel parts pull out of the Al ones, but this is going to be way rarer than the already rare issue of threads stripping in the first place...

You might need to put tinfoil over them to stop the outer surfaces burning depending on the oven you have too... Not at all unlike cooking ...

You might need an 8mm and 10mm for the set to be really useful on bikes though ... It's mostly scary how many bike specific tools there are out there... Some day...

I'm not sure how you're getting away with so few tools - I wouldn't let a set of allen keys worth under £10 near my bike as cheap tools tend to ruin bolt heads, so that's over half your budget gone already. If you go to a local shop remember that no qualification is needed to set yourself up as a bike mechanic, so only use a shop you know to be competent - none of my bikes has been to a bike shop (Apart for to be parked outside) for well over a decade... If you want just the basics, a decent set of allen keys, a crank puller, cassette/freewheel and BB removers, chain tool, spoke key, bleed kit (If you're on hydraulics) and proper cable snips will already add up to well past the £50 mark, and that's before you worry about fitting/removing headsets, hub bearing replacement etc. (Add tools for suspension servicing (Great fun on long winter evenings ) if you've got an XC bike and it gets really scary)... I reckon it's still cheaper to buy the tools as you need them and educate yourself as to how to use them than to go to a bike shop.

The star nut should be at least a few mm below the top of the steerer. If you put it much further down the bolt from the top cap won't be able to reach it. If it's too high it can pull out as you tighten the top cap.

IIRC both Shimano and SRAM tried this arrangement for XC bikes too, Shimano in the 70's or 80's, SRAM in the 90's. It should give better rear shifting as the sprocket rather than the chain tension will drive the shift, so less stress on the parts for a gear shift (While freewheeling). The big problems with this on conventional bikes were fitting the freewheel bits onto a 3 chainring setup (Think about the bearing requirements given the range of chain positions and chain lines 3 chainrings, all bigger than most freewheels produce and the loading the freewheel will take because of it). My guess is that what really shelved this one was trying to shift gears with the front derailleur while freewheeling...

Which body parts exactly did they measure? ...

If tensile will replace broken cranks under warranty I wouldn't modify them at all. If the thread in the tensiles are already f**kered then this sounds like a very good plan to get the cranks going... If you can get pictures I'm quote curious as to what way they're fitted...

I have a steel bodied Hope XC hub I used on my XC bike until I eventually had to get rid of it (After about a year) because the hub wouldn't backpedal without a lot of pressure, so when I stalled on technical climbs I couldn't backpedal to put more power down. The cassette I used also dug so deeply into the freehub spline I had to hammer it off - and this was an XC hub used for XC only - I contacted Hope who replied saying the hub wasn't suitable for trials - pretty true given it wasn't even up to XC use, They also offered me nothing by way of warranty support. That was my first and last experience with Hope. Replaced with a XTR in about 2003 and it's still running perfectly with no servicing at all.

Crap - Hope have just dropped even further in my estimation ... Explain again why so many people swear by them ?

Only question that springs too mind for me is why do you want to take the inserts out? Is it just curiosity or are you planning on using the inserts somewhere - are the pedals stuck in them?

I've got a Sony walkman phone, so since I carry my phone with me while trialsing anyway, I just listen to music on that. Can't recommend the connection for the earphones though. It clips into the end of the phone and the contacts get corroded after a while, so you have to wiggle the connector to hear the music properly. Biggest problem is when you do a big up (Big for me is somewhere around 1m) and my pocket is pulled tight against my leg during the tuck, the connection sometimes unplugs . Nokia do a few phones with standard 3.5mm jack plugs - get one of them if you happen to need a new phone and a new mp3 player. I've got everything from pendulum to enya on my phone - come to think of it I have a class mix of Enya's Orinoco Flow and Prodigy's Smack my Bitch Up too - along with the best country and western song ever written... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NKIyfdpt2V8

For a bunnyhop from manual you still have to compress the back wheel to make the bike leave the ground. Newtons laws say it's impossible not to. The only hop you can do without pushing into the ground beforehand is by accelerating your bike towards you faster than gravity, so your body will be in freefall while your bike is being pulled towards you, leaving you to meet the bike somewhere in the middle, with very little hop height. Compression and rebound damping (Or just plain friction if it's a cheap fork) means you don't get back what you put in on precompression before a hop, but you've no choice but to push the front wheel into the ground to lift the bike a decent distance off the ground...

If the brakes are good why change them for the sake of it? Disregard this if you've so much money you've already got everything else you want ...

You have a better explanation? The only other one suggested is that they're from the freehub hitting the ratchet ring inside the hub, and I'd expect to see either an axle or bearing failure to occur for this to happen unless they're way flexier than their design and people's experience would suggest. In my experience Hope make a lot of poorly designed products with seriously underspecced materials and only remain in business because they're good to give people replacement parts, but I'd give them the benefit of the doubt on this one. Can someone open a completely new hub and see if the same marks are there. If they're not on new hubs and appear over time they are due to the ratchet ring in the hub, otherwise I'd stand by them being from the chuck of the lathe/CNC machine used to shape the freehub body.

You've just contradicted yourself BTW. Front freewheels tighten towards the crank rear ones tighten towards the hub. Both are tightened clockwise when the pedals are loaded. Check it and see. Left hand threaded freewheels are for running the drivetrain on the left of the bike.

The other option for the cause of these marks is that the freehub is catching somehow on the ratchet ring in the body of the hub... Lots of deformation in the axle/hub/bearings would be needed for this to happen though - pretty unlikely I'd think (Without you having loads of other weird behavior from the hub).

I've seen the same marks on Hope XC hubs. I'm guessing they're from whatever chuck Hope used to hold the freehub during machining. Nothing to worry about I'd think, but then my Hope XC hub crapped itself from XC riding and had the same marks. I'd be more worried about the shards of metal though. Have you checked the shoulder on the axle between the bearings in the freehub and the hub bearings? This can deform over time as the axle bends between the freehub and the hub combined with the compression from the QR skewer and may allow the freehub to rub inside the hub where it's not supposed to. Also make sure the pawls and the ratchet ring are still the right shape and not missing any material... If the metal shards are not steel they're not from the pawls or ratchet ring - test with a magnet (Steel will be attracted to it, Al won't) if you're not sure.

Actually it's pretty much impossible. In order to get the bike off the ground to any kind of a height you must first push it into the ground to accelerate your body into the air. Same principle as jumping with no bike - push against the ground hard enough and you'll accelerate it enough to overcome gravity enough to leave the ground. The difference is you can use your upper body to create some of the upward movement (Pulling back on the bars) as well as having a longer lever (The chainstay) to give you more upward speed than your legs can supply on their own.

The olives don't come off, you'll need new ones which are compressed onto the brake line as you tighten the shroud nut into the lever. As for the barbed fittings. Get two bits of wood. Clamp them together and drill a smallish hole (At least 1mm smaller than the brake line) into where the blocks of wood touch so half the hole is in each block. Separate the blocks and clamp the brake line into this slot with about 1cm sticking out, wipe a bit of brake fluid onto the barbs on the fitting and tap it into the brake line with a hammer.

I'm based in Limerick, but occasionally do Cork thanks to a friend of mine who lives there and also rides trials. The skate park and all the rocks by the river by Ballincollig are fantastic ...