psycholist

Chances are the metal is off the crank as steel freewheels don't mark that easily. Check for burrs on the threads that might block them, especially stuff like weld spatter on the freewheel threads.

Not based on the Hope XC's I've pulled apart (But I'll reiterate that I've never opened a Pro2. It should just be a matter of pulling on the cassette - officially you're meant to take the end cap off the axle first, but pulling on the cassette is easier a lot of the time.

Reverse thread screwdriver? Surely you mean a left handed one ... Cutting a slot into the bolt head is guaranteed not to work if clamping it with a pliers hasn't worked already. I'm guessing the bolt sheared off because it's been tightened against the bottom of the bolt hole, so the threads in the frame should be fine. Another vote for the Molegrips/Visegrips here.

If it's like their other hubs you should be able to pull the freehub off the hub by pulling the freehub away from the hub while spinning it in the freewheeling direction.

Since the brake block can twist on the end of the cylinder in a Magura, setting toe-in makes no difference to them. On a VBrake it'll make things feel a bit mushy, if you're using toe-in on a V only use a very small amount.

Slapping the top bearing onto the steerer with the palm of your hand should be enough to fit most of them. If it won't fit have a look for burrs on the fork steerer or the headset cone and file or sand them flat before trying again. Hammering it risks doing damage to your fork/headset, especially if Aluminium parts are involved...

I picked up a DVD of the whole 2007 world indoor moto trials season in Halfords of all places. 4 hours of footage - fantastic . I'd pay a lot more to get the same coverage of bicycle trials events...

A friend of mine has SD5's, XTR levers and Nokon cables with red alu backed heat sink pads. Very solid, stops well and wears pretty slowly too . I'm still a Magura fan, though from the way my Magura pads are wearing it's obvious they're twisting a lot as they hit the rim. After using the first XT V's when they came out and being really impressed with the improvement when I switched to Maguras, I swore I'd never use V's on a trials bike again - this may yet change with the V's out now...

I'd say the lower bearing cone isn't fitted fully. A good bike shop will have a tool to ream the bearing seat on the forks flat. If it's already flat check if your steerer tube is straight. Don't ride the bike like that anyway, it'll ruin the headset in no time.

Best thing is to say you got it while rescuing puppies from a fire you discovered while you were on a sponsored walk raising money for breast cancer awareness... 60% of the time it works every time...

To build the wheel without the up-down out of trueness, back all the spoke nipples off until all the spokes are slack. Set each spoke nipple to the same point on the threads of each spoke (This assumes all the spokes connected to a given flange on the hub are the same length). A good starting point is to have the end of each spoke flush with the bottom of the slot for a screwdriver in the spoke nipples. If the spokes are too short for this, setting them so you can just see one spoke thread under each nipple is the other option. Line one pair of flats of each nipple with the braking surface of the rim (Leaving the spoke nipples like this makes it easier to count turns and also allows you to visually inspect your wheel for loosening spokes). Then, starting at the valve hole, work around the wheel tightening each spoke by a turn or two (If they're really slack), moving down to half turns once any tension starts to appear. To set dish wait till the spokes have some tension, then only tighten the spoke to the flange on the side you want to move the rim to. The wheel should have excellent up/down and side to side trueness without any help if you follow this procedure (Assuming the rim is straight to start with).

My guess is it's being bent too far when you tuck the bike up under you on hops and landings, I've felt my knee taking some nasty twisting on landings, but it never hurts thankfully. If you're talking about knee ligament trouble it could get pretty nasty if something is going wrong. Try to find a knee specialist, or at least a sports injury specialist to see about this - all most GP's will do is give you some anti-inflammatory tablets to mask the symptoms and possibly recommend an x-ray...

It's ages since I pulled one of those calipers apart, but I know I found where the spring went cos it worked afterwards... I found this though: http://www.sram.com/_media/techdocs/2007%2...004-000RevA.pdf - Look at page 18 and 19 .

It has to act to retract the moving brake pad when you let go of the lever, so look for suitable notches/holes in the brake arm and the caliper body to correspond with this requirement and the shape of the ends of the spring...

Have a look at the stuff 'The Scientist' on this forum has shared a while ago. Great for listening to while riding/working/relaxing... A couple of hour long mp3's with seamless music . Here's a classic for those who like both country and western - classic lyrics: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NKIyfdpt2V8

The issue has been turned into global warming as a further attempt to convince people to stop depending on unsustainable fuel sources. The problem with fossil fuels is not really to do with their global warming contribution - the greenhouse effect is currently making the Earth 33 degreesC hotter than it would be without it, so clearly it's necessary to maintain life as we know it and the 0.6 degC the IPCC has put out as their official (And believable) world temperature increase figure is a pretty small change compared to that which the Earth has been through already. Human activity contributes somewhere in the region of 5.5% of the greenhouse gases on the atmosphere, so hardly within the margin of error. Water is the biggest greenhouse gas, and water levels are directly linked to the Earth's temperature, so there is a danger of a small change caused by the other greenhouse gases leading to a vicious cycle of increased temperature. The primordial Earth as an extreme example is thought to have had over 30% CO2 in the atmosphere - with global temperatures in the region of 70 degC (This did not have to support mammilian life of course). A small fraction of this CO2 was subsequently trapped in fossil fuels, most was chemically bonded into various minerals (A process which has been suggested as a Carbon Capture and Storage (CCS) technique for power stations). The sea level has risen I think 20cm in the past hundred years, leading to some pacific islands being evacuated or planning evacuation (There are plenty of islands in the Pacific supporting populations on subsistence fishing with max heights over sea level of only 2 or 3 metres, so increasing sea level has a huge impact on them), so there are already effects being seen with the global warming seen already. Irrelevant to global warming however, moving away from fossil fuels should be inherently desirable as a means of achieving political and economic separation from the countries with the biggest oil reserves and very dubious political stability records (Namely the Middle East). I don't think anyone believes the war(s) in Iraq have anything to do with human rights, promoting democracy or weapons of mass destruction, it's all about ensuring an oil supply, the same is true for Afghanistan (Except it was an oil pipeline through it that was required IIRC). Given that at current consumption rates the world's oil supply will only last for 40 years (In the 1970's this was estimated at 30 years though, put it remains a finite resource) and the world's consumption rate for oil is continuously increasing, there must be a consideration of alternative energy sources. Incidentally, coal at about 200 years left at current consumption rate is the most abundant fossil fuel. It should be noted that there is every possibility that reserve figures, particularly in the Middle East, are considerably inflated - namely the reserves don't seem to drop each year as oil is produced and there are occasional jumps in figures which may be related to improved extraction technology, but don't seem to correlate with new discoveries (There's a wikipedia page showing a table of values with suspicious changes for anyone who's interested). The driver for lying about oil reserves is that the bigger an OPEC country claims their reserves are, the more oil they're allowed extract in a given year. Countries such as Dubai have already acknowledged their oil is finite by putting a lot of the money they're making now into building tourist attractions to keep money coming into the country after the oil is gone. This is probably a daft activity though, since without oil tourists aren't really going to be able to travel there unless alternative energy grows a hell of a lot. Nuclear power is also not a solution - there's a finite amount of Uranium in the world too, much of which is controlled by similarly politically unstable governments. Hydroelectric power currently contributes about as much to electricity generation world wide as nuclear, and it's thought that we may be near peak production of Uranium already too. If nuclear fusion is made workable it might be a solution however (This has been promised as being within a decade of solving since probably the 70's and is still not workable)...

Depends whether you like difficult or dangerous... I'm all for difficult, but if the consequences of a handlebar/chain/crank breaking or a loss of grip or balance would lead to a big fall I'm not interested. It really pisses off people I cycle with though, as they know I'm able to do certain stuff but haven't the nerve, while they haven't the skill to do it but have the nerve to try it... Those that like both the difficult and dangerous categories are the ones with sponsorship deals...

If all you want to do is change the outer chainring you'll need a 5mm allen key and possibly a big dirty screwdriver (Or a Shimano TL-FC20 chainring bolt tool) in case the chainring bolts just spin rather than unscrewing. Undo the chainring bolts on the outside of the crank (Pedal side of the chainrings) and you should be able to replace the big chainring without removing the crank.

I've pretty much doubled the distance I can gap by playing on a corner in a car park near me where the footpath forms an 'L'. I go parallel with the kerb on one side of the 'L' and launch off the kerb at an angle to put the back wheel into the kerb perpendicular to it. It's got me used to building speed with a half pedal stroke before I launch, all without the risk of binning myself on high up gaps (Which I'm getting more confident on).

Usually the spokes from the disk side are slightly shorter as the hub flange has been moved in to make room for the disk (If both are the same diameter). For a 32 hole rim you'll need 16 of each spoke length - just remember to keep them segregated while you're lacing the wheel up...

As I said previously they do make standard flanged hubs: http://www.industrynine.net/official/hubs.html

Looks like you're pulling the bike up vertically. Do you move backwards between the take off and landing? If so - and based on the picture I reckon you do - try giving the pedals more of a push before take off. Also a lower handlebar should allow you to get the bike to the same angle but have the bars further away from your legs... Next question is how to stop youself getting kneed in the chest on bunnyhopping big ups ...

I started back in 1996 on a Raleigh Gritstone (First MTB I bought - hi tensile steel, rigid fork, 21 gears, canti brakes...). My house was one of the first to be finished in its estate, so I spent a lot of time riding over pallets, blocks and all sorts of other stuff in the building site around the house. A year or two later I discovered trials as a sport existed...

Based on my experience with conti vapours and explorers on my XC bike you're dead meat if you expect conti tyres to grip on anything damp. Maxxis (And the condiment of your choice )...

Rev'rend!!! Fantastic post .