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ben_travis last won the day on January 18

ben_travis had the most liked content!

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About ben_travis

  • Rank
    Thats Enough Now Tart
  • Birthday 11/27/84

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  • County (UK Only)
  • Real Name
    Ben Travis
  • Bike Ridden
  • Quick Spec
    Inspired Arcade 2017
  • Country
    United Kingdom

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  1. Hey dude, I’ve had zero problems with mine so far. It’s been solid with no skips or slips. I’ve tried to put mine through it’s paces with decent sized gaps and TGS stuff as well as the streety stuff and it’s been really reliable. Can’t help on where you’ll source one from though I’m afraid.
  2. Don’t worry about the glue, just tape back over it. After a recent hub swap I’ve re-taped mine with glue under with no issues
  3. From the picture below, it appears your tape is only across the middle of the rim and not across where the tyre sits. It needs to be the FULL width of the rim including on the flat section where the tyre sits. From experience this pushes the tyre bead up into the catch on the rim.
  4. Big vote for hope adapters here. I’ve had the same two on front and rear for a couple of years with zero issues.
  5. I managed to get the pump below on a deal but heard decent things about the Topeak and leyzene pump too EDIT: Should add that it’s managed to get nearly every tyre bar one airking seated. That includes all sorts of mtb tyres. After the one that didn’t seat was when I started lubricating the bead and rim and it’s been near faultless since.
  6. It sounds to me that you need to get yourself to a bike shop to get an air compressor on it. Or buy yourself a tubeless tyre track pump. To me, there is no point trying to get the tyre to seat before you've got the insert in. They are tight but they definitely go on so you've just got to get that bit sorted. From the picture you put up with the zipties on, it looks as if you've not pushed your bead in under the insert on the bit of tyre that you do have on the rim already, which definitely needs to happen to get the insert in. When you're trying to seat the tyres are you lubricating the beads with some soapy water? If not, then definitely recommend this. It just helps the bead move across the tape better from experience. Typically i follow this routine: One side of tyre fully on (doesn't need to be seated) Tubeless valve in (with core still in place) insert fitted over rim start fitting other side of the tyre starting at the valve and moving both ways so that the last bit of tyre to be fitted is opposite the valve core Make sure as you go round that you push this side of the tyre into the middle of the rim underneath the insert (typically i used a tyre lever for this) When you get to the last bit of tyre you can pour sealant in the side of the tyre at this point (or wait till step 9 if you want less mess) Rotate the wheel so the the sealant goes to where the valve is Use tyre levers to fit the last bit of bead as this will typically be tight regardless take valve core out (and you can put in sealant at this point if you didn't at step 6) Spin the wheel to get the sealant all around the inside of the wheel Apply soapy water on both beads and the inside of the rim wall (i'd get a brush to apply at this point to get right in there) Pump (i've got a tubeless tyre track pump) or compressor on with the valve core at the top of the wheel Get pumping then squirm and squeal when the tyre pops (every time). take pump off and then put valve core back in (i don't let tyre right down, i get my finger over the open core and then put the valve core in before tyre fully deflates) pump tyre back up to about 45 psi and give it some good ol' spins to get that sealant into all the pores then leave over night If you've tried all of that and are still struggling, then recommend you taking it to your local bike shop for them to do it. They'll have it done in no-time.
  7. I’ve tried a few different mtb brand rim tapes but always end up back on gorilla tape. Ideally you want a tape that is as wide as your rim in a single size
  8. i9 do have a free coaster in the works I believe. Christian Rigal filmed a video for i9 and has many coaster clips in it too. Also...this...
  9. Well, shit. Guess there isn't any reason for me to be slowing down if you're still plucking away at 40 dude. Nice Mike!
  10. This'll be my last reply, but i really think you're clutching at straws dude. Did you get a bit annoyed by the fact that you didn't win any magura brakes, hence your frustration? Specifically on that video, anyone can watch that section and see that Hans specifically points out that beginners hop backwards because of poor C.O.G, but the 'advanced' technique is to hop forwards, "maybe over a gap or something" to quote him. I've never met anyone in 20+ years of riding trials who has made the back-hop distinction as specifically hopping backwards (other than that trashzen link - which i 100% don't agree with). I'm pretty certain that the universal description is that a back hop is hopping on the back wheel, same as a front hop is hopping on the front wheel regardless of direction. Alternatively, gapping and landing on your back wheel his a gap to back, or a gap to front is landing on your front wheel. You're free to be as pedantic as you'd like with your descriptions, but probably not worth asking someone else to be that pedantic when it doesn't appear to be the consensus.
  11. Will just leave this here, you can skip to 55:30 yourself to see what these guys (you may have heard of them) called “the back wheel hop“. You may also note that this was filmed in the pre-2000’s IIRC so it’s been around a while. A little longer than trashzen as well (sorry julien (I think), no criticism of your site intended) I’d imagine 99% riders shortening it to back hop isn’t really that bad. Same way hopping on the front wheel in any direction would be a front hop. But I guess I’m just lazy...
  12. Can you explain the difference on here so that those respectable people can learn from you and the OP can ensure his website is correct.
  13. I'd recommend the 9.p pads to help reduce pad rock.