gussie

Would you not be better getting dj parts? Since it is a dj bike you want right? But here is cheap stuff. and i havent a complaint to make.

If it is compatible with Shimano HG spline it will work. That is the standard (basically). It will say "only works with..." or "use only with..." if it doesn't fit on a HG spline. Just so you know, i don't actually know if it's called an HG spline but i do know it's an industry standard.

How wide is your rim? Because isn't there something about certain rims, at a certain width can't take a tyre larger than ..... I don't know if this is the case in trials but in mtb there was a little chart thing i had somewhere saying like (that is just an example) 29mm rims can't be used with anything larger than 2.6". So my point was tyre to large for rim? Infact what about if you have a tube suitable for the tyre. Like same size sorta thing. Might do something it might not i do not know. And erm don't hold me to any of it please its just some thoughts.

Profile do a 116mm hub with a disc mount. King do not, however, this man has.

What about putting to bits of wood in the vice then the sprocket between them so it digs in. Then put something on the end of the crank and turn? Edit: might be easier as it will hold the crank still? Well it will give it a fixed pivot point rather then being able to move like the chain in vice method?

It didn't really change my life but was good anyway. I used to ride with my flat bars tilted far to far back and then someone pointed it out and i moved them forward and it was so so much nicer and getting up obstacles (although only little) was a lot easier.

Aren't the dmr hubs solid? I thought they would be, for jumping? Oh well, i don't think i could even bring myself to do that to my nice new frame anyway.

Yeah what bender said. Surely a dmr or similar hub with threads for a freewheel or sprocket with a nutted 10mm axle would be strong enough? But then again i don't actually know how strong the axles have to be it was just a thought.

I used to run 33 to 11. On a dirt jumper was pretty sweet. Could accelerate easily and get a pretty good top speed. But i agree with what others say 22 is too small for DJ. This is all presuming you don't want to do anything but jumping on it.

Tell him copper grease is what you put on threads....only locktite sometimes.

You can run any of 1, 2, 3 or 4 but you would have to change some of the fittings on the ends. Now i believe you have an 04 lever body. You can not fit any of the new lever blades in 04 lever body and an 04 lever blade will not fit in an new lever body.(obviously). But you can run any one of the above levers with any slaves(again some fittings may need to be changed for instance on the deng slaves). So basically if you have 04 slave pistons(the bit that the pad goes on) you can simply buy a new COMPLETE lever and then bleed it. Or as someone else mentioned if you love your 04 have a look on ebay or the far sale section on here. That may sound really patronising but its not meant to be.. sorry

Yes i suggested that but which way would it unscrew because on this it looks like it is a "left hand thread", is that what they're called but i mean it unscrews the way a normal thread would tighten????? I think. I'm slightly confused and can't be bothered putting the brain power in to visualise it all and stuff. Plus i dont have a set of cranks i can test it one...So that sucks

Well if you have any kinda long pointy thing you could try just undoing the head of the bolt. Using hammer and long pointy device, tapping it round? As this may relieve some of the tension on the actually bolt. Which in turn may mean you can take them out and then use a normal crank puller? That may not work though. Is there some sort of separation between the bolt head and the bit with the holes? Like in the link i left above there is clearly two different pieces of metal?

I thought with self extracting crank bolts they stayed in the crank arm the hole time even when the crank arm was fully off the bike. So when undoing the crank bolt the crank arms is pulled off the spindle/axle? So surely it would take a lot more force to turn the bolt if it has to act as a crank puller too. I know when i use a crank puller i crap my self every time because it feels like i'm using quite a lot of force. And as for the it goes tight then loose, +1 for the something is PROBABLY bent. Does it have anything like this has on it or look like this. The holes/larger allen key being used to get it on the first time i think? Edit: Haha to the last part of your post! And also is it an isis or square taper bottom bracket because they have different diameters of bolts and isis also has two different diameters. So if you are going to try and drill it I (IMO) would be tempted to drill with say a 5mm (this is me presuming the smallest diameter of bolt for a bottom bracket is m12? although i think square taper may be smaller) first so you know there is no way of hitting the threads on the axle/spindle then progressively move to bigger drills. In fact have you called tartybikes? It may seem silly but to be honest if i had tried everyhting the forum had recommended i would go to them explain the situation what you have tried ect ect. and then as a last resort start to drill?

That's a little bit contradictory isn't it?