spartan

oh my god the rear cable is soooo long lol. But its freakin nice man. You shoulda rocked more green though could look like my czar!!

If you dont mind working a little. Avid Ultimate vee Red Heatsink CNC pads with a light grind and some tar (or medium no tar for wet) Nokon sleeved housing teflon coated cable Dangerboy anodized lever Best brake system ever but finding parts for the ultimates is a bitch. cant go wrong with HS33s though.

I find that for moves going up that, until your going pretty high, technique takes a back door to brute strength. I mean if you want to pedal kick up a 2 foot wall then you have to be able to pedal kick obviously but mostly you need to be able to really jump off of your legs and pull hard with your arms, after that just pull the bike up into you and stick the rear to the wall. If you find a flat piece of road or w/e then practice going as high as u can with a sidehop then landing on the ground its a great way to practice. For distance its harder because you have to go up and forward. I find that i jump up with my body and forward with the pedals. So the pedal kick takes you forward and your body take you up. Also, for static gaps it helps to take off at a slight angle, it helps you really jump into that gap rather then into the handle bars. Keep practicing, Ian

Yeah for the money the echos are the best for sure. I hear the profiles are nice but ive never used one. The surly rear hubs are great and cheap but im not sure if they come with a 116 spacing. Its pretty hard to f up a single speed hub though. echo *** here people!!

if u find the guy/bi**h then kick their f**king ass for me!!!

Yeah trialspads only has the red refills and i have the cnc backings already but like i said i have the pads epoxied in. Does anyone know how to remove them. I have heard lots of good things bout the reds but are they better then the rock blue vee pads?? And if i cant get the blue stuff out of the backings then how much would the pads be in CAD. Cuz normally brake pads are like 25-35 bucks but 19 euros is more then that isnt it?? Thanks, Ian

Yeah you can replace them because the pad is just pressure fit into the backing. But because mine kept ripping out i had to use epoxy to glue mine into the backing and the stuff i used has a breaking strength thats like over 1000 pounds soo... Where can i get the red heatsinks though, hbtrials dont have them and neither does webcyclery?? Also, are the echo levers as comfortable as the dangerboy ones, i hear that they tend to cause blisters??

The top 3 or 4 threads on my left side blue rock vee pad are stripped. I tried rethreading but no luck. Im pretty sure i need new pads now but dont really want to go back to the rocks again ive had bad luck with them. I want the Heatsink red pads but i doubt they come for vees. To be honest ive been thinking about going to maguras for a while as ive had alot of trouble with my vees. Can you get the heatsinks red in a vee pad?? Do the echo brakes leak alot or should i just get a magura with an echo lever blade (i hate the magura ones) or should i just stick with vees?? Thanks guys, Ian

The rock blue pads are pretty good but i think the heatsink reds are better. My rock pads then to work really well in one direction but not so good in the other!

yeah im pretty sure the rim is outta dish, Ill endevor to fix that, will this affect wether the tire rubs the frame. The way its set up right now the left side is all the way out on the adapter and the right side is in the middle. I cant find an email for Sram or Avid but ill give them a call this week.

The big distributers of Avid in ottawa are Norco and Lambert and neither of them carry the parts i need. Should i call sram directly?? I dont think the pad is toed in though it looks really flat to me. This is a usuallly occurence. For some reason one pad sits really nicely in the middle of the braking surface and the other just bairly hangs on the inside of the other.

Ok so i have rock blue pads on sd3 arms and zhi adapters on my Czar 26. Because the vee boss is really low i have to run the pads really high in the rail so i dont really get full range of adjustment out of them. Basically, my left pad keeps like twisting so its sideways on the rim. I managed to get it to stop a little while ago and used my bike alot. The squeak you get from tar and a grind was loud and happened when the bike was going forward and backwards. I just went on a ride and the pad twisted again so i set it back and tightened it down but now it only squeaks when the bike is going backwards. Like it feels really sorta mushy moving forwards. And it just sounds like rubbing then like a really soft high pitched wail when you pull it really hard. Like they have ok power i guess but there is no bite moving forwards. I dont really know whats going on, the pads arnt toed in but on hits only like 7/8's on the rim because the adaptors. So what the hell is going on, my brakes were so nice at the start of the ride now their frustratingly bad?? Also: does anyone know where i can get spares for my avid ultimates, i know there was a thing bout using a shimano piece or w/e. I need the right side brake arm spring kit. I have the spring i just need the assembly that goes under the arm??? Help Anyone??

Yo James barton destroys on the rear wheel. Pretty much any pro has no problem just chillin on the back wheel...old bean!!

I wish there was a way to spell the awsome whipping sound people make whenever they got seriously burnned lol!! Yeah i guess its true the english arent actually part of the mainland. But tither ho old sport, us canadians arent the ones with the accents, its you who have the wacky accent that our women find so irresistable (shakes fist). How you guys manage to be so ugly and yet so sexy??? PS: Bycentenial trials for the win people!!!

it depends on whether it was smooth or chunky. Like if you landed it really nice and smooth then i would say thats great progress but if it was really rough you might wanna work on gaps a little more. When i started all i did was drops and balance so now i need to go back and work on my ups and gaps. Ive been riding for 3 years and can ride railroad tracks as long as i want to and drop bout 2 feet over my head but i can conly gap like 6 foot on a good day and i can tap like barheight. It all depends what you focus on!! Ian

WE DONT SAY ABOOT YOU BUM!! LOLS!!! No but canadian people do say ehh alot, its true. Jolly good for picking up that one old spice. Pip Pip Cheerio im off to the pub to drop off this brew from the boot of my lorry. I just have to close the bonnet first. You wacky euros, i love u all!!

yo looks pretty nice man. Watch for cracks around the simulated seat tube, the specialized Sx trail uses the same frame design and they all cracked there every couple of months. Good find though!!

I like to keep my arse fairly low. But my girlfriend likes hers in the air, ehh ehh whos with me!!!

dude just wear thicker socks!!

Yo dude at least u snapped the shoulder rockin it with trials. I broke my collar bone playing soccer last year. Now in the UK i wudda been a hero as "football" the the big sport, but in Canada im seen as a huge fag. Soccer kicks ass though, and so does trials, and any injury involving the shoulder blows serious chunks because you cannot sleep for about 3 weeks without waking up every 2 minutes in horrible agony so.... Sorry dude, that sucks huge huge monster balls man.

i dont like it as much, there arnt enough videos up there and for some reason i always get crappy ones when i search

Im not gonna change the bars just yet because im sorta lending it to my bro to learn on and i dont want to put any more money into it, i still have my czar remember. I was surprised though like, the "moves" are easier on this bike, like gaps and sidehops, but it feels like your working so much harder. And i was surprised how much easier sidehops were, like wow, straight up past my record on the czar, its the one place where i think this bike is the better one!! I find that its harder to pedalkick and pedal up things though, just i cant get as high as i can with the stock but all around its a really nice bike. And i think my brother is f**king lucky to have somin of this spec to learn on!!

Yeah if you dont mind tinkering with your hub a lil more then CK is deff the better hub but i think the Pro II is less maintenance intensive. Either one you get their both super strong and super nice, the CK as almost twice the engagement though!

Picked this baby up used for a killer deal. Spec: Monty 221ti Monty wheels and hubs (28 spoke) Monty freewheel Monty stem Echo bars Monty cranks Echo lite fork Dual hope mono trials And there she is: