DYAKOV

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About DYAKOV

  • Rank
    Trials King
  • Birthday 06/22/92

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://atanasdyakov.tumblr.com/
  • Skype
    dyakov.atanas

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Glasgow

Previous Fields

  • County (UK Only)
    Glasgow
  • Real Name
    Atanas Dyakov
  • Bike Ridden
    Mod
  • Country
    United Kingdom

Recent Profile Visitors

8181 profile views
  1. Was just about to comment the same
  2. Hi all, I’ve logged on the forum from both android and iOS phones and I always seem to be unable to view some of photos and any videos people upload on their posts. I’m not sure if that’s it in general with the mobile version of the site or maybe there’s an option I need to tick on my profile? Sometimes photos will appear as broken links which won’t load and videos will load on a separate tab but won’t play. See screenshots attached below. And something else I’ve found useful using other apps is when you swipe left and right to go back and forth which doesn’t seem working on the forum here. So I always need to scroll down to the bottom of the page and use the wee arrows to go back a page. That’s not so much of a big deal but it would be useful if I could just swipe right. Nas
  3. Is it a disc brake you have on the rear? Once or twice I thought my hub was skipping as well and it turned out it was either the rotor or the brake calliper being loose and making a cracking sort of noise.
  4. That’s one tidy workshop!
  5. Currently I have a breath yes 20” frame with 1010 wheelbase, 362 chainstay, +90 bb Looking for a shorter frame with 350 chainstay, not too bothered about the bb but say anything between +60 and +80 will be alright. Been offered an old ice frame but I’m not too sure about geometry on that. Trialsaddict says 1000wb, 350cs, +80bb but the frame shown in the picture has a different head tube design, so I’m assuming it’s a newer updated version of the original ice frame. Does anyone know if that’s the correct geometry, also are there short and long ice frames or just one size? And last, is anyone selling a Jitsie frame by any chance or anything similar? Thanks, Nas
  6. I’d say that you could get a long mod frame and still feel comfortable on that mate. They now have quite long stems and bars as well have so much rise that it would add a fair bit on the overall length of the bike (have a look at the new clean bars). Certainly you wouldn’t have much to worry about if you went for a stock bike, length wise I mean. But my advice is get a bike and stick to it. The more you ride, the more you’ll get used to it. Lots of people (including me here) tend to change bikes way too often trying to get the perfect setup and by doing that you’ll end up focusing on the bike itself to “make” your riding instead of you actual riding it which never works. Glad to see people getting back to it cos street trials seems to dominate these days and tgs is slowly dying.. Cheers, Nas
  7. Frame geo sounds like a 20” monty frame
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  9. I know everybody has their own preference but still... give the 20” a chance. It might seem alien at first but once you get used to it you’ll love how comfy it is and especially how you can control the bike with your body instead of being “carried away” by the bike. This coming from me who started on a hardtail 24-18 gear ration with -30bb and 579483827292726 chainstay.. (all of that said... depending on your height) if your tall then probably a street machine or a stock trials bike yeah :-)
  10. Yeah I’d say pick one and start learning everything with the same foot forward AND to the side it should be done. When I first started riding I was right foot forward but I was also spinning and doing my side hops to the right. I was going like that for so long that it turned into a habit and even though I’ve been doing side hops to the proper side for quite a few years now I still can’t get myself to spin to the left. So if I was to do a pedal kick on a wall I’d either need to start further back (which makes pretty much a gap in itself) or I’ll end up doing something like a side hop to a rear wheel and it just doesn’t look right. Same thing applies to front to rears and it’s a pain in the ass. I’ve recently started learning spins to the proper side and I hope that will help me learn/improve other tricks and I wish I’d just learned everything the proper way..
  11. I’d agree with ogre there. Get yourself a nice second hand bike for the same amount of money. That will feel better and will last you longer as well. People on this forum are quite genuine and I can’t imagine anybody selling you broken parts either. Or, as people say - buy cheap, buy twice
  12. I’d say go for the KO bike if you like it! First thing is, especially for a beginner, you need to love how your bike looks! You need to look at it the way a groom looks at his bride on a wedding day and think “ooooh she’s the one” haha I’ve seen lots of people spending a fortune on “the right” bike and giving up after a month cos they’re impatient to learn everything and go big in no time. And if they’ve spent so much money on a bike that they don’t like but they only bought it cos somebody said it’s “the right” bike, then it’s very likely that they’d just quit. Geometry wise, yeah there is a difference between different frames but to a big extent that comes down to picking up the right stem and handlebars as well. After all, if you’re not a UCI top 5 rider, 100-200 grams more or less wouldn’t make that much of a difference. It’s that 100-200grams that make the KO frame a lot stronger than new model frames and that’s what you need as a beginner. When you get to a point that 100-200 grams and +10/20mm bb rise is essential to your riding, then you’d know what frame to get yourself and you wouldn’t be even asking on the forum :-) If he can do it, you can do it! -
  13. Thank guys for your replies! Just a quick update - managed to fit everything with lots of clearance between the bb and the freewheel. Just hope the thread will hold alright but if anything happens I’ll post on here anyway for other people to bear in mind. Weird thing is that when I tried to fit the cranks on a brand new KO bikes bb they wouldn’t insert easily as usual so I had to tighten the bolts to help the cranks slot in. They were nearly new cranks so I can imagine the splines being still quite tight and unworn wouldn’t just slit in very smoothly but I’d never had that issue before so it made me think is there any difference between splines of different brands of cranks/bb’s?
  14. I picked up a crank set from eBay the other day - 160mm tryall cranks, trialtech bash, echo tr fw - and I can see the fw isn’t screwed all the way in cos of the bash ring taking up some space on the thread. Spoke to my mate who had the same cranks ages ago and said that he just used them without a bash. I’m not a smooth rider in the slightest and I do need a bash. Another issue is they might not fit on the bb if fw comes out too much but I’ll see about that when I fit them on tonight. After all, they’re second had parts and have been used on a bike already so practically there should be no problem with fitting them on. My question is has anybody had that kind of a set up and did the thread hold alright? Any opinion/advice is welcome! Cheers, Nas
  15. I have two spare freewheels one 60 click tensile of the old ones (quite loud, took it off an old bike I recently bought) and a 72 click monty (not as loud and again came with my old bike, looks new and in a good shape though). Which one would be better to use? Cheers, Nas