DYAKOV

Members
  • Posts

    735
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

DYAKOV last won the day on February 5

DYAKOV had the most liked content!

Reputation

157 Excellent

1 Follower

About DYAKOV

  • Birthday 06/22/1992

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://atanasdyakov.tumblr.com/
  • Skype
    dyakov.atanas

Previous Fields

  • County (UK Only)
    Glasgow
  • Real Name
    Atanas Dyakov
  • Bike Ridden
    Mod
  • Country
    United Kingdom

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Glasgow

Recent Profile Visitors

9546 profile views
  1. Don’t know if anyone has noticed but @Pisankahas been uploading old videos on his YouTube channel. This one is a killer!
  2. I never use open links no matter what. Replace that with a standard link and you’ll be fine.
  3. I’m using home made adapters and they work pretty well. Why don’t you try and make your own? It’s good fun and you can experiment with the design.. I have some spares incl a full v-brake setup and I have alu material + pivot bolts as well if you wanted to try and chisel a set.. let me know if interested?
  4. Super glue the pad material into the backing. Just make sure to be quick before it dries and only apply super glue to the base/bottom of the backing, avoid spreading glue to the side walls because the pad will get stuck to it and you’ll have a hard time trying to push it all the way in. Re pad material - as far as I know all of the tnn pads are intended to be used on a ground rim for best performance. You can experiment with the depth of the grind. LGM (green) and ADM (black) compounds seem to be the most popular ones. Or at least I haven’t heard about any other. If you’re looking for softer compound to use on a smooth rim, I’d recommend trying the jitsie blue pads or heatsink yellow pads.
  5. You might need a new chain tool.. I recently noticed that my chain tool isn’t 100% centred to the pin any more and it does a bit of damage to the metal plate of the chain link I’m taking apart. It hasn’t snapped on me yet but I’m definitely mindful of it. And no, I haven’t had any issues reusing the same pin again. Although I never really push the pin all the way out. If you’re in doubt, take a spare chain link off the offcut you must have left and replace the whole section. Better safe than sorry!
  6. I’d say it’s all down to personal preference and style over all. Many people will say that 20” bikes are much lighter and easier to ride. But that’s only noticeable in the first few hours after coming off a bigger bike. Give it a week and once you’re used to the 20” it stops feeling that flicky. Likewise, I recently started using my 26” more and the first couple of rides were horrible. It felt so big and heavy and slow. Then I got used to it and I can’t have enough of it. My aim is to switch between the two and not really focus on what a bike feels like but focus on my riding itself and making the most of what bike I’m on at the time, so eventually I’m hoping to improve my skills overall. Last addition to my collection is a 24” comp bike and surprisingly that’s what I’ve been using the least. I suppose that it’s a good bridge between the other two sizes and if I didn’t have them, I’d be happy with that. But if I was to switch from either of them to the 24” there isn’t any noticeable difference in how it feels. Anyway, I’d say get the kind of bike that you associate trials with and get used to it.
  7. Hi buddy, most people will suggest to try a street bike, either 24” or 26” (like the hex you’ve mentioned) which is probably the closest to what you’ve been on 20 years ago. Any of the new style comp bikes will feel alien to you but why don’t you try to look for some old deng frames circa 2006-2008? The old echo pure frame (2006ish?) had a seat and a pretty universal geometry, the 2008 pure or control are both seatless but bb height is rather neutral so won’t be too much of a shock, also those frames were made indestructible. And last advantage is that they’re old now and people would be selling them cheap.
  8. I’d say just practice drops and gradually increase the height? Not sure how high 4ft is (I work in centimetres) but if you’re coming from a 2ft drop straight onto a 4ft drop, you will be scared and that’s normal. Start with your comfortable height and add a few inches every time. Then it won’t seem as scary and before you know you’ll be dropping off that 4ft wall without even thinking about it. Another issue is that it’s probably a bit too early for you to drop off major heights - and that’s quite normal too. When I first started riding I had almost 0 bike control but I would throw myself from 3 meter drops with just 2 pedal kicks like it was nothing haha I just wanted to be too good too soon. The more I ride, the more rarely I find such heights to drop off (or at least the need to), so in my case it went the other way round - I started with higher drops and I’m going lower.
  9. DYAKOV

    A short video

    Man! That was amazing, so much power, control and playfulness, really enjoyed that!
  10. Woooow you’ve got some great spots there mate! Really enjoyed the video, scenery, tune.. well done!
  11. Remember seeing that tutorial by James Barton doing taps on a rock and he’s making it look so easy. Also, pick any old school video by Phil Williams, James Porter, Neil Tunnicliffe and the likes.. they all used to smash their front wheels way under the edge. I’ve only proper tried once and I ended up mid air in a superman position nearly smashing my face in the wall. Having said all that, I’ve noticed that whoever does touch ups are always riding 26” bikes and walls seem pretty high too. Following........
  12. Not him mate. It’s Michal Nowak, a big name in Poland together with @Pisanka
  13. That’s definitely my all times favourite. So playful and creative, always makes me want to go out and ride!
  14. What kind of clamps do you use? If not washerless ones, is it possible that you’ve got some worn seals which might be causing the play? Even though plastic backings aren’t as stiff as the metal ones I don’t think there should be that much play so it’s noticeable when on rear wheel.. I mean we’re speaking about 1-2mm play