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    Trials King
  • Birthday 06/22/92

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  • Real Name
    Atanas Dyakov
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    United Kingdom

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  1. .

  2. I know everybody has their own preference but still... give the 20” a chance. It might seem alien at first but once you get used to it you’ll love how comfy it is and especially how you can control the bike with your body instead of being “carried away” by the bike. This coming from me who started on a hardtail 24-18 gear ration with -30bb and 579483827292726 chainstay.. (all of that said... depending on your height) if your tall then probably a street machine or a stock trials bike yeah :-)
  3. Yeah I’d say pick one and start learning everything with the same foot forward AND to the side it should be done. When I first started riding I was right foot forward but I was also spinning and doing my side hops to the right. I was going like that for so long that it turned into a habit and even though I’ve been doing side hops to the proper side for quite a few years now I still can’t get myself to spin to the left. So if I was to do a pedal kick on a wall I’d either need to start further back (which makes pretty much a gap in itself) or I’ll end up doing something like a side hop to a rear wheel and it just doesn’t look right. Same thing applies to front to rears and it’s a pain in the ass. I’ve recently started learning spins to the proper side and I hope that will help me learn/improve other tricks and I wish I’d just learned everything the proper way..
  4. I’d agree with ogre there. Get yourself a nice second hand bike for the same amount of money. That will feel better and will last you longer as well. People on this forum are quite genuine and I can’t imagine anybody selling you broken parts either. Or, as people say - buy cheap, buy twice
  5. I’d say go for the KO bike if you like it! First thing is, especially for a beginner, you need to love how your bike looks! You need to look at it the way a groom looks at his bride on a wedding day and think “ooooh she’s the one” haha I’ve seen lots of people spending a fortune on “the right” bike and giving up after a month cos they’re impatient to learn everything and go big in no time. And if they’ve spent so much money on a bike that they don’t like but they only bought it cos somebody said it’s “the right” bike, then it’s very likely that they’d just quit. Geometry wise, yeah there is a difference between different frames but to a big extent that comes down to picking up the right stem and handlebars as well. After all, if you’re not a UCI top 5 rider, 100-200 grams more or less wouldn’t make that much of a difference. It’s that 100-200grams that make the KO frame a lot stronger than new model frames and that’s what you need as a beginner. When you get to a point that 100-200 grams and +10/20mm bb rise is essential to your riding, then you’d know what frame to get yourself and you wouldn’t be even asking on the forum :-) If he can do it, you can do it! -
  6. Thank guys for your replies! Just a quick update - managed to fit everything with lots of clearance between the bb and the freewheel. Just hope the thread will hold alright but if anything happens I’ll post on here anyway for other people to bear in mind. Weird thing is that when I tried to fit the cranks on a brand new KO bikes bb they wouldn’t insert easily as usual so I had to tighten the bolts to help the cranks slot in. They were nearly new cranks so I can imagine the splines being still quite tight and unworn wouldn’t just slit in very smoothly but I’d never had that issue before so it made me think is there any difference between splines of different brands of cranks/bb’s?
  7. I picked up a crank set from eBay the other day - 160mm tryall cranks, trialtech bash, echo tr fw - and I can see the fw isn’t screwed all the way in cos of the bash ring taking up some space on the thread. Spoke to my mate who had the same cranks ages ago and said that he just used them without a bash. I’m not a smooth rider in the slightest and I do need a bash. Another issue is they might not fit on the bb if fw comes out too much but I’ll see about that when I fit them on tonight. After all, they’re second had parts and have been used on a bike already so practically there should be no problem with fitting them on. My question is has anybody had that kind of a set up and did the thread hold alright? Any opinion/advice is welcome! Cheers, Nas
  8. I have two spare freewheels one 60 click tensile of the old ones (quite loud, took it off an old bike I recently bought) and a 72 click monty (not as loud and again came with my old bike, looks new and in a good shape though). Which one would be better to use? Cheers, Nas
  9. Cheers for that mate! Yeah I’m really keen on trying one and I’ve been looking at your thread. I’d be after a hs33 frame though and I’ve got a few parts left from my old bike, so it’ll be more of a mix and match rather than buying a whole bike. But thanks for that!
  10. I’ve had quite a few mod bikes and all of them being old model frames e.g. echo lite 08, Monty 221ti and a pr one, adamant a3, limey 320, because colour, koxx xtp 08?.... Out of them I really liked how the limey 320 felt. So I guess for my new build I’d be looking for a short wb frame, with high bb and a short chainstay as well (that adamant was shit to ride!) I was thinking to get a relatively newish frame, something on the lines of ozonys curve for example. I’m not interested in any of the top range scorpio/Monty m5/and other carbon frames (or voltron frames as I call them) as I can’t afford that and I bash a lot... Can you guys suggest other options for me to consider also give an opinion on the ozonys curve mod frame? Cheers, Nas
  11. I don't really have much experience with stock bikes but definitely go for a long wb if it's a mod mate. I am around 171-172cm and my personal preference is for a short wb... but being 180cm and over will be a pain to ride! Do you not have any friends around whom you can ask to try out different bikes/geos and see what feels most comfy?
  12. You mean a rim brake yeah? That should be fine if you're not using a brake booster/washers etc.. also double check for retapped threads, cos people tend to go M6 instead of helicoil...
  13. way too many punctuation marks mate
  14. Right, so there isn't a rule what size stem and bars to use. It all depends on the frame length (measured as wheelbase) and the chainstay, your height, and your personal preference. Some people like long bikes while others like short bikes. 150x30 stems are sort of universal and that's why lots of people use them by default. I've used different size stems on different bikes that I've had. You just need to experiment and see what works best for you. In general (as to my understanding) the longer chainstay you have, the more it will pull you down when staying on a back wheel. That's why you'd use a shorter stem with a lower rise angle, so you'd pull your front end higher/closer to your body and vice versa. Then rotating your bars (depending on the backsweep as well which is usually 10 degrees) will help for your balance respectively: having it vertical will help you easily pull the bike for pedal ups and bunny hops and having it rotated forward makes it more comfortable for static moves such as pedal kick, side hop, surge etc.. Hope that helps!
  15. to be honest I can't fault it mate! They were notorious for leaking but with all racing line bits (blade, piston, fittings) it works as it should and is quite comfy as well. Plus being all cnc and universal left or right hand makes it ideal I think.