ScotchDave

I've seen the cheesewire, I've also seen old rusty barbed wire and razor wire. Moral of the story: people are c**ts.

Well it's not really that hard for ants to shift a car, all they gotta do is simultaneously jump on the key and then on the gearstick and finally the accelerator. (Y)

Says its ok on grips so should be ok on rubber, just rinse it off after 30 seconds.

Well, I have seen one bb thread dead, some eejit tried to take his out the wrong way, thought it had seized so he went and got a scaffolding pole. (Y) (Y)

It's a little less than what a woodstock costs, cos the t-rex frame is cheaper.

Hahaha, I win. (Y) (Y)

Supercycles.co.uk

Is the lever bolt really tight, on my old set of maggies I found that if i used the TPA too much it would slow the return but if I slackebed off the lever bolt a bit it'd stop bring sluggish. (Y)

Hmmm, is your brake bled properly?

I'm usre if you ask steve nicely he'll give you extra pad, and why don't you wanna use any TPA?

Turns out that the advice about drilling the bigger hole actually has some use if you use a thin rim and a tight tire (x618 and fire xc) couldn't get the b*****d to seal, oh well I'll have to borrow the techy departments drill.

You DRILLED a hole in a shimano carbon booster. :unsure: (Y)

Why don't supercycles know??

Told ye all.(Y)

I think that's Ashley butler riding the proto onza T-mag, which he stickered up to look like his bro's coust.

Onza's you can try mine next time we ride, they're the same as the pazzaz I had last time, I love them, (Y)(Y)

Oh, well. ;) Maybe run a longer bolt on the stripped on and have a nut on the back. I think 4 bolts are m6 thread. (Y)

...

Yeh, you had a "vibration damper". (Y) What I said will almost always hold true, my brake actually seems to rotate between silly noise and quiet swoosh while still working really well. But a ceramic rim is normally a bit odd. Was your silent brake on a ceramic rim by any chance? Also say you have a t-mag frame (the old one) the sound will get amped in the downtube as you say it's not JUST the brake but the brake is the biggest factor.

Spacemunkee, heres a bit of brake science for you. ;) When a pad hits the rim it will cause friction, if you set the pads up at an angle to the rim, then when the forst part of the pad contacts it will start slowing you down, the harder you pull the more contact area and therefore greater friction. Now, with a trials brake we don't really need to angle our pads to the rim for modulation, in fact a brake feels and works better for trials when the pads are flush with the rim. If the pads are flush with the rim all the pad material will make contact (almost) immediately and the pads will bite, the bite makes the pads try to move and therefore produce a vibration giving the squeak we all know and love. That is why trials brakes squeak, and a well set up pair of pads will almost always squeak, this is why a squeaking brake is a working brake. Also Fat-Dan, take the pads of and sand them lightly on a flat surface, give the rim a grind, spray muc off on it, set up your brake using the 2p trick and then ride around alternately dragging and grabbing the brake. See if that helps, it can take a few goes (Y) This will hopefully make the pads wear flat to the rim. improving your braking.

Phone supercycles, ask for one, doubt that they'll charge you anything cept postage.

None of the new ones have come off the backings as far as I know and I have seen at least 2 sets of standard maggie pads coming off the backings.

Will, call someone like curtis, they need to know the standard and will know it.

An xtr would die, it's the bushings wearing out, I think you can actually buy new bushings.

How about you phone Phil and ask?