John Shrewsbury

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John Shrewsbury last won the day on May 9

John Shrewsbury had the most liked content!

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About John Shrewsbury

  • Rank
    Trials Master
  • Birthday 09/06/85

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    Street/Natural Trials, MTB
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  • County (UK Only)
    Vale of Glamorgan
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  1. Search Hayes or avid Fat adapter. It might be difficult to get one in 180mm. I only managed to find a 185mm here and filed it down
  2. A lot of people have had this problem over the years, it tends to be the over tightening of the caliper on top which can weaken the holes where bolts go through or there is a lot of shock going through the setup when running a 203mm rotor. But as your running a 180mm rotor it’s hard to tell if it’s just weak about the holes on this particular caliper or you just had bad luck this time round. I went down the root of running one of these adapters. Yes it’s a 185mm, but you can either file it down yourself or take it to an engineer to put it to 160mm/180mm. Plus there cheap on eBay, I’ve not had any problems since. I run a shimano 203mm icetech rotors with shimano Zee brakes F+R. I also put one fat washers with green cab bolt on top of the calipers to give them a bit more stiffness.
  3. Just splash some water on the rotor if you have EBC reds. Then give it some time and they will bedd in.
  4. I did when I trying to bunnyhop high stuff. But I actually adjusted mine in a little further on the bar so I have more grip length. But Ali C mentioned he puts a bit of sugru mold on the inner side of the levers, possibly worth a try. Also if you want the lever blades in further and not adjust them out too far you could bring them back in to a comfortable position. The take the wheels out or the calipers off and pump the pistons in a little ( not too much ) then force them back on in between the rotor and you should get a strong lever bite so you don’t have to have the levers out far. You will still be able to adjust the brake, but pump it then hold and tighten the caliper down. I do it every so often because I wasn’t getting a good enough bleed, specially on the rear. Good little tip to try.
  5. I bought a pair a while back, only noticed when fitting them to a bike and putting the wheel in that the wheel wouldn’t turn. I spoke with Mark Westlake about it and I didn’t really want to send them back as I needed them. In the end I put a schwalbe table top on to see if I had more clearance compared to the Continental race king I had on before. Wheel almost cleared it so I filed down a little bit of the steerer underneath and it clears fine. Shouldn’t effect the fork in any way but it will void warranty.
  6. I run the Zee brakes and EBC reds. Have done for the last 4 years, no complaints and run sharp as hell. Definitely recommend.
  7. Yeh done it to mine once, just sent the hub back to hope and had a new ratchet and body replaced. I used to run my chain pretty tight which may cause everything being squashed a little which might effect the ratchet area, but who knows.
  8. They always crack there, even my first Ashton Eddie tongue frame cracked there in the same place as the Zoot.
  9. Once this is built and we’re out of lockdown, think you should get in touch with Akrigg and meet up with him and film a video and see what he remembers about the bike. Plus he might enjoy being reunited with a replica of what he used to ride.
  10. I was at a British Comp round once and noticed Akrigg had done it on one of his Onza bikes, I asked him how he locked his out and he had done the same and just took the spring out and just set his gears up like normal. Simple and affective, plus it followed on with a lot of riders.