Sethgun

as I said before, looks sick. Wil Is gonna love u for that first pic Real clean build man

theoretically thats gonna happen with all pads. It gonna get contaminated if your running a rim with dirty or marked walls, ride in the wet, and especially removing your tyre from the rim when replacing a tube or grinding. Always keep the tyre on the rim when you grind/regrind so you dont contaminate th rim wall and/or pads. Thats pretty basic so im sure you are aware of this already. If i ever get contaminated pads, ill usually ride a couple of minutes with the brakes slightly engagee d so it beds the pads in aagain and removes the crap from the rim and pads. Metho works wonders on cleaning the rim, i usually wipe it down before every ride

who cares about heatsink pads? The topic is about the 'belaey' pads and all these people badmouthing tnn in general, the rest that badmouth are all just like a herd of sheep and follow someone elses lead. The best critic is yourself. They dont cost a fortune, buy a pair and try them yourself rather than rely on someone elses shit experience that could be based on a number of factors. I use lgm's on no grind and they are bloody awesome, i juuuust ground my rim and f**k. They are just that good. Hold is immense, modulation is sweet and ive used rock blues before these and thought they were the shit, these kill them and i can only see the new belaeys being better, not goign by anyone elses opinions. Once my lgms run out, belaey refills will be going into my tnn fittings and if i dont like them, still shit for me ill just get another set of lgms. Go out there and try stuff kids, dont be sheep

yep. exactly my thoughts. Tnn kicks ass

i dunno why people bum tnn pads at all when i reckon they are the sickest out there. I ran lgms on my inspired with a 24byc lt rim thats not even a flat/sqaure wall and NOT GROUND and they shatted over most peoples setups i rode with a grind. Im running them on my new meta vtt2 build now with trialtech rims NO GRIND and they are just nuts, honestly dont think ill bother grinding bc the lock and mod on these are just frickin nuts, I can only imagine the newies are better. Opinions and reviews are opinions and reviews. If YOU wanna know how they perform, just buy them and ultimately make your own decision. It doesnt mean ur gonna be broke for the rest of ur life if u but 18quid pads. I just reckon there are too many sheep out there (i cant talk, i used to be the same when it came to choosing a 24 or stock bike!) who hang off the word and experience of others who a) ride differently taller and weigh different c) different bike setup d) expect something based on a previous poor experience, or just generally think there is better out there. just buy the f%^#in things and if u dont like em, sell em

nah I flogged the inspired off....really wanted to get back to a stock. Inspired was fun I gotta admit, but i wanted a stock for a long time. later in the year I might build up another inspired or a custom geo marino ill see. For now this is my bitch little off topic, but are 1/8" chains alot stronger than 3/32" BUT still stretch quite a bit? I think I wanna change the chain already. Havent had much of a chance to ride these past few night to stretch the chain out but after 2nd pedal kick last night SNAP bang goes my trialtech lite 3/32. Fixed, gonna take it for an easy ride tonight for stretch but i just cant b assed having to stretch a new chain all over again too often later.....

Yeh, after naming my vtt2 to Miranda, the bikes been doin funny things. I woke up for a piss early morn and saw my bike in the middle of the loungeroom lookin like this, nom nom nomm

thanks for the comments guys.....I shall name her "Miranda" lol after the sweet aussie model id like to fff...............

Yeh thanks for that guys. As is, its a little past halfway on the dropouts and if i take the chain off, it spins freely so its def the chain but its still rideable. With my weight on the bike and I stop pedalling, it doesnt just stop dead so thats a good thing. Ill set up my brakes now and after a bit of stretch, it should be good (fingers crossed).

nah rubber queen isnt whit, its my fave but for clearance on this frame ur mounting ur axle pretty far back....dont like the idea of getting too far back, (getting cracked dropout images in my mind) and thats where im gettin probs with chain tension. Its still rideable for now even though the rear wheel doesnt spin freely, just need to spend a few hours to stretch it out then should be right tension. If I stick a halflink on its too loose. Regarding the mist forks, they look the goods I reckon, and the geo is exact same as the tryalls which I think is why they are gonna be popular. Pretty stiff. If anyone is interested in them, hit Wil up at trialsden.com Might be far for some because hes local, but hes a champ

im thinkin bc my cams are maxed out, instead of buying ones with longer adjustments im just gonna stick a bigger washer under the cam bolt so it presses on that (effectively giving more adjustment) running halflink with axle close to the end and hopefully itll stretch enough after a while to ditch the halflink...or somehow bring it closer in the dropouts. Dont wanna be riding every day with an axle mounted 1-2 mm from the end of the dropout!

hey bud, its a new chain i got from you guys. Its a trialtech lite 3/32" . Rear rim is a trialtech and rubber queen with echo tr cams. Such small clearance with the vtt2 and this tyre. At the point where my tire runs smooth without touching my bb, ive maxed out my cam on the non drive side (drive side looks like its maxed too, sitting about the apex of the bulge on the cam-furthest point out) and axle sits a little more than halfway back of the dropout (this is without a chain) with the chain on at this point, its stupidly tight and stops from spinning. If i put a halflink on, its too much. Do you think i should go for a cam with more play like, the neon or viz! cams? They give about 10mm more adjustment so it should sit better with the halflink im guessing. Then once its stretched, maybe try again without the halflink? How much would a chain like this stretch out? Should i be looking at a different chain that has slightly longer or shorter links, or are all chains same link length?

now to get my tension spot on and put my skewer the right way up rubber queen+vtt2 = bitch fit

Actually yeh crap, ur right....if u put a narrow link together with the sides of a 2nd link, uve got an open end and a closed end (if that makes sense) a single half link gives u an open and closed end on a single link. Might have to play around and use 2 or 3 half links to get the tension spot on true? Its as if all i need is half a single link and ill be spot on, working with a few half links might end result in this somehow, ill play now

yeh ive got a couple of thos half links on but really, they are still the same overall length as a full link thats what gets me. Spoke tensioner......where did i see that here? u got a link? I think one of the tarty boys did that in a post......

Hey guys, Got a problem and need some advice. I cant get proper tension on my meta vtt2. Rear rim is a trialtech 47" wide, with conti rubber queen 2.4 and with the meta vtt2 frame, ive gotta have my axle mounted so its about 3mm from the end of my dropout for my rubber queen to fit (VERY TIGHT FIT) using a trialtech lite chain 3/32" and echo tr cams. When i got the wheel in the right spot, tension is just madly tight. Tight to the point where i turn the pedals and the rear wont freely spin, the over tension just blocks it. If I fit another link, its too loose. I cant bring the tyre in anymore as it will rub the bb shell. Ive tried a half link and 2 of them, still no fun. I dunno why people try a half link, the overall length is still the same or am I being given the wrong link from bike shops (they pretty much give me a link from a whole 3/32" half link chain) Are there any other chains that are slightly shorter or longer in link length to play with? Only other option im thinking of is getting neon or viz cams and adding an extra full link, as Ive reached max on my non drive side cam to get the wheel aligned. The viz or neon cams give me about 10mm more adjustment over the echo tr cams. Only problem is to get tension then, my axle will be mounted practically right on the end of my dropouts. I dont wanna change tyres....or would you suggest a 16t screw on over my 15t? Front is an echo sl 108 freewheel 18t Any thoughts?

so no real benefit of this moto to a mono trial? are they old or as current as the current mono trials? Not sure about the mounts. My mist forks are +20 so good for a 180mm. I bought a +20 adaptor thinking they werent +20 forks but i was wrong (guess i can run 200 now) but is there any real benefit of a 200 on a stock bike, or is it just a waste of weight....mounts on the piston are different as well so he has a isis mount for them to convert. Seems im talking myself out of it lol

As the title says. Ive got a mono trial already with 180mm rotor but can get this one pretty cheap. Got no idea about the moto stuff. This pic is the one i can get. Its a 203mm rotor, but 1. is the lever clamp the same as a normal trials clamp (eg, like a mono trial) 2. obviosuly need an adaptor to fit our forks...is there such an adaptor to fit something like, say a trialtch fork? Ive got new mist forks which, like the trialtech ones are +20mm mounts (good for a 180mm rotor). I just got some +20 adaptors from tartys thinking my mists werent +20s, but they are so i can run 200mm now if i want....but prob wont unless i can get this v2 moto to work. If it CAN work, would i still need to run this +20mm adaptor plus adaptor to make it work with our forks?.....seems like a mess either way and lots of weight lol. Any pros/cons compared to a mono trial? weight etc? anyone running a setup like this? Cheers

holy crap! looks like some nasty dildo lol. Yep got a starnut and pressed it in, all sweet now. Thanks for the help guys

So i got my hope headset that came with a head doctor and modified it to use with my trialtech forks as they are threaded steerer. cut down the trialtech top cap on the lathe, threaded the centre for the hope top cap bolt and worked perfect, all bc i was bored one sunday and wanted to use the pretty hope top cap lol. Now god knows where i put the expanding bit that comes with the head doctor. ......do i just go with a star nut? Never used one as its always been a head doctor for me or a threaded steerer top cap so exact size im after is a mystery to me. internal diameter of my new mist forks are 20mm alloy steerer and hope bolt is a standard M6 (hope disk calliper bolt size) Are these star nuts available at pretty much all bike stores? We dont really have specific trials stores here in AU and im sure some of the boys can get it for me here, just not by tomorrow night or saturday. Any help with what size to go would be great. Im guessing go something like a star nut diameter of about 22 or 23mm and u just press it into the steerer tube? Cheers

again, looks lush. they ti echo cams? did u get tension sweet or need a half link? Im 9/10ths through finishing my build too, mist forks coming tomorrow and shes done Bring it to melbourne AU buddy, there is a clan of us here who all snapped up the shipment quick Got a mate selling a blue one too if anyone is interested, pm me. Hes gone with a slate II so this has only been touched, nothing mounted to it. Can get u in touch with him if interested

yeh carbon is just stickon.. my vtt2 build is blue frame with everything else black/white so should look the goods im hoping. just gotta use +20mm to use my 180mm rotor which is a shit

hotness......ive 3/4 built mine up just waiting on some bits n pieces, blue too and i reckon the best colour out of the 3. Was gonna ask immediately before iu saw ur specs as to what rear rim that was....is it single wall? front rim looks like a trialtech sq hole! did u have to change to smaller hub spacers to run the cams on the inside? i had to get shorter spacers for my rear trialtech hub for this reason to run cams on the 10mm guts on the inside, which is why i ask. Tyre clearance? how u running... further back than halfway on the horizontal dropouts to clear ur tyre? u should see mine with a rubber queen (and anyone consideringrunning this frame with one) im waiting on the cams but clearance looks like a bitch to the bb, will be running close to the end of my horiz dropouts.....is that a bad things in terms of strengh on these frames? Looks real lush

Just wondering if anyone has got them yet or ridden on any proto mist forks. Essentially the same geo as the tryall forks, but mega pimpness (available in is mount disk or 4 bolt). I ordered mine locally in Australia through a mate at TrialsDEN (check out the site, pretty darn good for us Aussie riders and great prices.....just waiting for them to arrive. Gonna run them on my meta vvt2 unfinished build with +20mm adaptors for my 180mm v2 rotor. Any feedback of actual users would be great in terms of stiffness and general feel. Heres a couple of pics.... cheers kids

leak leak leak, whatever u use, just the fact its an echo tr lever I bought one to replace my hs33 lever and have nothing but problems, there have been threads about this. Main piston walls are rough as guts and any o-ring u use (including the one on there already) just get chewed and leak....unless u get work done to the lever. Mine is sitting in a bag somewhere