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Jack_M

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    Jack
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  1. Thats close to true but not 100%, and as Le of TNN is on holiday in Fiji I'll clear things up. Chris Russ, of Brisbane, Australia originally created the CRM compound (as well as others). He initially sold these himself, then later teamed up with Tim (forget his last name. North American fellow who ran Plazmatic) to mass produce them under the Plazmatic name. About two years ago, Le of TNN Engineering teamed up with Chris Russ and produced some CRM pads in light metal backings as TNN's first move into the pad market. These were a success but it became apparent that while CRMs were brilliant in their day, they were not up to the modern standard of pads. Le and Chris then set about developing a new pad, the LGM. This was followed by the Belaey pad. LGMs and Belaeys are produced in TNN's Brisbane workshop, with product development assistance from Chris Russ (ie a pad testing rig). As I am aware there are no plans to produce any more CRMs, for the simple reason that the LGMs and Belaeys are better. Hope that clears things up Cheers Jack
  2. Hey buddy. I had a little trouble building up my limey 320 for the same reasons. My spec ended up as Monty cranks with trialtech ti halfring and monty freewheel Wipperman 808 chain (its 8 speed, so narrow) Monty rear hub with 4 mm of washers on the driveside end of the axel to space it out to 110mm. Monty 12 tooth rear sprocket Monty 124mm BB The most important part of all this was the monty BB, and trialtech halfring for me. If you have issues at the moment, why not try getting a thin spacer to go between your cranks and freewheel if you arn't already running a bashring in there. Be careful that you have enough threads left on your crank though. If that fails, the next question is, how straight is your chainline at the moment? If its straight, then flip your rear cog around so the teeth sit nearest the spokes, and make a small spacer so the chain doesn't rub the spokes, as the guys above suggested. If your chainline isn't straight, then its time for a new BB. Your rear hub may also be contributing because its probably a hub designed to run with snail cams at 116mm spacing, and therefore without snail cams, the threads for the rear sprocket may be very close to the end of the axel. Thats why flipping the rear sprocket round may help. Jack
  3. Jack_M

    Onza Ice

    I had the same problem building up my limey320, and can explain it for anyone concerned. Most mod frames are spaced at 116mm in the rear end. However, there are actually two options with hubs that get run with these. 1) A 110mm hub, with 3mm of snail cam on each side, spacing it out to 116mm 2) A 116mm hub, with no snail cams, or possibly snail cams on the outside on the dropouts Now if you own a monty, your frame is different again. Its spaced at 106mm, and needs a monty hub also at this spacing to work. Snail cams are run on the outside of the dropouts. Finally, lets come to onza. Their new dropouts arn't designed to use snail cams, and are spaced 110mm. If you run a rim, brake, no worries you can just put in any 110mm hub and it will work. However, if you run a disc brake, you can't do this. Why? Disc hubs are designed to have something around 15mm distance from the end of the cones on the disc side, to the face of the rotor bolt mounts. A standard 110mm hub assumes that 3mm of this distance will be taken up by snail cams. Of course, on the onza this isn't the case cause your frame is 110mm, not 116mm. As a result, if you stick a H116 disc hub in your limey 320 frame, using only the 2mm spacers and no snail cams (like I tried), you'll get a nasty shock when the rotor rubs on the frame. So what hubs work with an onza and rear disc? Well either a dedicated 110mm hub. Viz make one. Or a 106mm monty hub, with 4mm of spacers of the drive side. I hope that helps anyone who's curious.
  4. Ahhh ok, the new website doesn't show piston sizes, only the old one did. Sorry.
  5. Did you snap just the lever blade or the whole brake lever? Is the price of 45 pounds for 2 blades or 2 levers? In regards to replacing a marta with a julie, have a look on the magura website which lists piston sizes and fluid types. If they are the same it *should* work. Also might want to check if the hose fittings are the same.
  6. Jack_M

    Chains.

    Kamels have very little clearance between the chain and the seatstay. They come fitted with an 8 speed wipperman chain or something very similar (or mine did anyhow). Fitting a larger chain like a kool chain may work, but quite often it simply wont fit because the chain rubs on the seatstay which can cause damage to it. So by all means run the kool chain if you want to but be aware of the rubbing. Failing that I've always used Wipperman 808 chains in preference to kool chains on all my trials bikes, and in this case rubbing should not be an issue.
  7. I too hope Terry gets better quickly. He struck me as a very kind fellow when I met him earlier in the year. Best wishes.
  8. Fixed Pants, when you say some 'discs' prefer resin pads, are you refering to the disc rotor or disc caliper? I am of the opinion that rotors do not have any real preference. I have however seen warning about not using sintered pads in certain calipers. Shimano calipers tend to come with such warnings. This however is because they are made to work with resin pads which insulate the caliper from heat quite effectively. The fear they have is that sintered pads without such good insulation will cause the brake system to overheat and fail, hence the warning. A number of after market pad manufacturers such as EBC also have similar warnings not to put their sintered pads in certain brakes. Having said all that theres two reasons it doesn't matter in this case. Firstly its a trials brake so it wont get enough heat into it to cause problems with either pad type, and its a mechanical disc with no fluid to overheat. Sintered versus resin for bite? I personally don't know. Conventional thinking says resin bites more but some brakes like BB7s have emmense bite with sintered pads. Sintered pads defintately have better wear life on a mountain bike, for trials maybe its less of a difference. Back to the original question. When i have tried to clean a rotor with hot soapy water I have never had much success. Some people swear by I can't make it work. I'm a little concerned that like me, you havn't cleaned the rotor well with the soapy water and you've contaminated the new pads. Hope thats all useful to someone.
  9. I feel the need to draw everyone's attention to some inaccuracies in this statement. CRM pads were developed by Chris Russ in Australia quite some time ago. CRM stands for Chris Russ Magura. These were then marketted under the plazmatic name by Tim at trialsin. Now people had mixed experiences with these but it is generally accepted that at some point Plazmatic CRM pads were produced that were not of the same quality as the originals which lots of people had loved. Tim however disputed this strongly in the thread as noted by Otacon. Fast forward to the present day and TNN is working in conjunction with Chris Russ to produce the TNN CRM pads available from Tarty's. Tim at trialsin however is not part of this operation. TNN has done large amounts of testing of the compound they are selling, comparing it to both the original and the 'dodgy' CRM and it is 100% the original. They however are fussy people, who are never satisfied and want to make something better. Prototypes are being tested at present. So I guess I'm asking you to re-think your opinion Otacon because if your only issue with TNN is the post referenced above then you need not worry. Lol and yes I am a personaly friend of Le at TNN, I however use discs and think you're all deluded running rim brakes
  10. That comp had about 20. Although depending on where in the country we are, we can get anywhere from 15 to 35 at a comp.
  11. Hey all. I thought I'd share some photos of our first national round for 2009. The spot is Anakie in Victoria. Photos I think were taken by Scott C but I could be wrong there... http://www.flickr.com/photos/37532762@N07/...57618623056319/ For anyone who's interested in results... http://www.observedtrials.net/vb/showthread.php?t=42732 Thanks
  12. Jack_M

    Nathan Roach

    Ahhh right that would explain my confusion. BTW im the aussie Jack who turned up to the comp at Hut Hill a month or so ago
  13. Jack_M

    Nathan Roach

    Really nice riding there. Is this the same Nathan who was on the KSAS a month or two ago?
  14. I don't have facebook... yeah I know I live in the dark ages... I try to ride with Le and Reid in Southbank but I work Wednesdays so often miss the night rides. Anyhow I'll pm you my email in case u use msn. Edit... so you're not a full member and therefore don't have the ability to PM.
  15. Hey Dean, its Jack (guy with long hair from the brissy comp) Both the things you have been told are correct. I havn't seen you ride much but I think something else may help you out a lot, particularly with the gaps. I noticed at the comp that when you hop on rear wheel your correction hops are still quite large, which isn't unusual. If you can make them smaller you will be able to set up for sidehops and pinch gaps more effectively. So when setting up for moves, maybe try concentrating on smaller hops and keeping your body relaxed on the bike. Now i've though of another thing in regards to correction hops you might be doing. When hoping on the spot, it isn't neccessary to kick on the pedals. You can kick, but it tends to make the hops bigger. Its something to think about though. Cheers Jack
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