Brisa

Ok, you may want to try feeling round the carpet on the passengers side floor up behind the head unit. Basically a bit of fairy tale following the breadcrumbs (or wires in your case :o )

MadManMike, I think the Clio headunit is sort of part of the bash, I don't have one so can really check but Wally if you can see if there is a way to get your headunit out..

Bargain for a tenner :o

Exaggerate more, more momentum and arms out! Will keep trying it and hopefully keep getting higher!

If your thinking of getting them you should know they arent too strong, infact out of the few people that use them most have snapped. Also warranty is pants so WHEN you do snap them don't expect a Middleburn style helpfullness.

I think im right in saying that DMR had some Juniors on it didn't it? Suppose that doesn't help :o

Just emphasise everything, really throw your arms out and try to use the momentum. I got a little bit of advice from 'aaroncosbey' off here yesterday. Used it on my new 20" (always rode 26") and i was soon doing my personal best.

Yes that should be fine, even more so that grease as it tends to clog up and not let the pawls release as well as a light oil would.

Is there ANY way I can get this video :- Please :o

I think your choice are really the starter's of trials. Personally if it was based on riding ability it would be in no particular order: Danny Smith Ali C Matt Berridge Craig Lee Scott Neil Tunni And another persons videos amaze me are Jack Barnes.

Not meaning to piss on your post there Squit-man but any forks in the history of trials forks with bonded steerers usually snap where the steerer joins the crown. This is due to the metal being thinner/smaller/weaker at this part in order for it to fit inside the crown to then get bonded. This is the only way a steel steerer can be attached to alloy forks. With echo forks you have a full alloy steerer that go's through the crown and is welded at the bottom of the crown. This is a far better design meaning the metal is the same thickness/strength all the way down. I have had VERY bad experiances with bonded forks, firstly I snapped a set of Orange trials forks, this being the result Linky. Then I got a set of Liteguys, Yet again a bonded steerer and I snapped then, I then borrowed a mates set of lite guys until i got some new forks and on the first day, guess what..... yup they snapped. Since then I have only ran fully steel forks, I had OLD Echo Chromo's on my Base, I have Tuf Guys on my levelboss and I am using standard T-pro forks on my T-pro even though nothing else on it is standard. I have seen these Echo forks hold up to a lot and I personally think they would be the only alloy fork I will EVER use.

Heat treating is the method of strengthing but then again its a bit hit and miss...

I have got 6'6" to tyre but didn't keep it. Can get around 6' comfertably.

Hope bulbs dont last long at all, if your set on a hope at least get a mono/xc. The DMR revolver is a MTB hub that is basically a big bmx hub, you screw the freewheel on the rear and use a normal chainring up front. I can get you pictures of my set up if you wish when i get home from college. I use 22t chainring up front and a 18t freewheel on the back. I have savaged 3 hope hubs, one sport, one moneo and one XC. I have also Savaged a LOCKED out deore when i ran front freehweel (like twisted/cracked the hub body) I have used this DMR/ACS set up for around 2 months now and i can honestly say it has NEVER skilled while im doing TRIALS. It does the odd skip just cycling along just like most things do (as im sure you will be used to being a mod rider) If your worrying about it loosening (which it wont on the back) you can take it to a local garage and get a spot of weld on it for about a quid. I have done this on my MOD and its nice knowing it CANT EVER loosen. Can also get you some pics of that if you would like.

You said metal pipe, it just thought i would clear it up in one for him :closedeyes:

I think you see in a lot of his vid's him using Norco team tyres or something?

Mono/xc has 21 ep's What crank arms does he run?

I agree, front freewheel is a good way to go. If you can get an ENO do it but if you can't just go for an ACS and as soon as you get it, make sure its tight and take it to local welding place and ask them to tack the lockring to the remover lug bits. This should stop any hassle you may be getting with loosening, its worked fine for me. I hope to buy an ENO sometime but until them im happy using the ACS. The ZOO! cranks are fairly expensive aren't they? If no why not buy some Echo's (i think i read on tarty bikes they not have a steel freehweel thread :closedeyes: ) and get yourself an ENO. I use Echo cranks on my MOD, have had no problems with them so far. Tensiles are another very good choice, they just feel immensely stiff and look pretty good too. Endofreak on here has locked out his hope hub, PM him for details if you wish to know more. Save you some cash on buying an overpriced fixed hub.

Incase you havn't noticed the dmr hub is like £35 and an ACS is between £10 and £15. You get for your money, 36 engagments. Something that won't give you a lot of hassle and if the freewheel does die eventually just get a new freewheel. I have a hope xc and a mono in blue that need to visit hope if anyones interested.

Not much you can do as alloy doesn't weld very good. Best thing you could do is drill a small hole as you have said at each end of the crack. This should hopefully stop it spreading and take it to a local welding place and ask them to put a gusset over the top of it. You may be lucky enought for it to last a while and maybe not but it wont cost you much to find out. Is it out or warranty?

Mate, get it right. Your the one going off saying its a beginners bike because its 'short'... I am posting constructivly because I don't like to see people put down new products because of assumptions. This isn't good for companies bringing out a new product as people could be sucked in by your opinions just like you obviously have. About the decision on long bike short bike, I ride both. I have a levelboss with a WB of 1075mm and a t-pro with a 1010mm WB. The spec part is a full of shit statment. A monty for three times the price of the t-mag doesn't have a much better spec... are you going to argue it does? All im saying is that the beginners bike bit is a crock of shit, I know people will agree with me. Just give it a chance dude. Not everyone out there can afford a specced out Python. Stop critisizing until you can back it up.

Get the dmr revolver with an ACS freewheel. Hopes dont come close if you dont mind running single speed

I agree with everything you have said... but VW have NOT made the golf better! Mk1 all the way!!

WTF? Beginners bike = short... ooooooooook, so you ride a Python, so does that = Immense rider? Pull your head out of your arse, if you don't like it critisize constructivly. Don't just go.... Mehhhhhhh its short.... that must make it a beginners bike! I suppose the likes of Craig Lee Scott was a beginner when he rode for monty or Matt Berridge is a beginner because he rides a Curtis (beginners bike)?

Mate.. having snapped 2 sets i think im qualified enough to say theyre the worst thing onza make! You ride lite guys, just be ready to pick your teeth up! Every set i know of in the country has failed at the steerer.