chris4stars

warm up your fingers first...typing is quite a good way www.google.co.uk ----> exercise warm up ----> click 'google search' = literally thousands of responses if though you want somthing a little more specific, you also need to be...

with a bike pump, fit the little barb/niiple thing at the end of the small pieces of hose (so theres one in each end) then use the presta/other valve to try and get a tight fit?

if the syringe doesnt give enough pressure to push it out you could try: connecting your other brake to it and use that...swap a few nipples etc on those clear plastic tubes maybe connect a footpump to the system and use the pressure from that?

Apologies if ive missed the news elsewhere, but are there going to be any adaptations to the 2011 fourplay frame? or perhaps further in future...

hey attila, im the guy you met! been a bit out of action lately with some bad bike luck and just working all the time...now when the new pads come tomorrow its all sorted, work shifts are back to normal, should be able to go out a little more for rides (aimed towards rab and mr milton!)

It could be that there is air in the lever cylinder section...can sometimes get trapped and requires you (or someone else) to compress the lever a few times (whilst lever body is pointed down so youd be pulling the lever vertically upwards) whilst you push/pull water through the system I cant remember where exactly the hole is, but ive been caught out by this before. when youre almost certain its properly bled, pull the lever rapidly as youre pulling water through to see if any extra bubbles come out...if they do, just repeat i find personally that whilst doing a bath bleed, repeatedly pushing and pulling the water through can dislodge any air pockets...just keep the syringe on the lever and make sure the hose at the slave is submerged

huuuge bunnyhop! loved it

youve been riding for 10 years? youve ridden god knows how many bikes, only you know how you felt on each one. finding the geometry of each wouldnt be a problem you come across like you already know alot about the subject - so why with that extensive knowledge cant you figure out what the best compromise for you is? after all, its only your opinion that seems to be right on this stopic

was my 1st thought 2nd - invest in a helmet 3rd - continue to stick it to the man, nice riding

cheers, id take it but im needing the bolts and spacers too! on that note, i'll get one of those... slightly off topic, but pointless making a whle new one just for a quick question - front wheel hops on the inspired front forks, there is flex there but thats understandable....im just wondering if they are prone to cracking and giving way if i keep at it? im about 75kg if that helps

tell him and the others to get a helmet on! would prefer to see what else he comes up with rather than watch another memorial ride.

hi everyone, as the topic title suggests....its about time i got a 4 bolt booster on the back and stop the flex, im wondering if the echo urban will fit? im using trialtech rims with a maxxis high roller on the back, if anyone has a similar set up or any other viable alternatives let me know...looking for something very stiff and ideally in silver (or the new aquamarine type blue the echo/viz stuff comes in).

Wondering if anyone has had a similar problem with a pain in the elbow area... basically, it feels like a dull (though quite intense at times) throbbing ache at the base of the bicep, though it feels a little deeper than that? the pain comes pretty early on in a ride in only my left arm, despite any painkillers. I then have to rest for an hour or two untill the pain has almost gone away, after that it is fine... im finding that the pain for some reason completely weakens the grip in my left hand...like when you wake up to a dead arm and can barely squeeze anything, and at times the pain randomly comes about during the night, often waking me up!? anyone with a similar problem, let me know how you dealt with it. if you did seek specialist medical advice, let me know what exactly their opinion was. thanks!

im not the person to ask about v brakes im afraid! the stopping power of a brake needed for trials is huge in comparison...so how it performs elsewhere may not be the best indication http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/media.php?group=guides&id=2 this is giving a rim a grind, when used with a decent brake pad it gives your brake the bite and hold you need in trials. there are pads specific for smooth rims, but the vast majority of people will use a grind.

im hoping you are sourcing most of that fromt hings you already have! for what youre building, it really isnt worth spending very much money at all for the benefits you'll recieve (those carbon forks came to mind) you'll need to re-look at the chainring/sprocket ratios....considering alot of trials bikes run with 18:14 or close, with a 32 tooth chainring youd be looking at a 23-24 tooth sprocket on the rear so when that bit is sorted, get some decent pads for your v's, a grind on the wheel and you'll be good to go

for your first bike, dont get caught up in 'geos' and all that chat....untill youve riden for a good while, you wont know what you like. as for bike choice, the 20" vs 24" vs 26"...they all have thier pros and cons, as someone said, check out tarty bikes and some of the videos on there. best advice though is to try and find some local riders, meet up and ask to have a go...everyone is more than happy to help, and it could save you alot of money in future! as for something cheap/light/strong...best bet is to go second hand, have a look at the for sale section on here to get an idea of prices. you may have to make compromises though depending on how cheap you want, light and stong AND cheap dont often go together! *edit, i know you want to use your own parts...you will know the weights of what you have and what feels nicest, not much we can help you with there. if you are reluctant to buy, just get some decent v-brake pads, a grind on your wheel and go from there

30 mins on a regular bike.....easy enough to average 12-15 mph on that so im guessing youre anywhere from 5-7 miles away from the activity? hmmmm....initial thoughts are yes as everyones said, its possible, but as a beginner its not ideal to have something that off putting from the offset, you may not have had a chance to build up the same passion for it as everyone else!

very impressive...i liked the long side rail ride im with matt though, looks like alot of effort put in over the 8 weeks, and definatly some previous biking experience...still very quick learning aswell as the advice already given, id also recommend learning to come off the sides of walls (or anything for that matter) slightly differently. whilst slowly rolling along, pull on the front brake doing a mini endo, moving the rear to the side you want to go off then push from the front wheel to get clear from the wall. its an ideal technique for bailing as its all very controlled. also allows for better rear wheel placement on the landing aswell as the benefits from landing rear wheel first.

ah so this is what i was told about.....see you all there

did exactly the same about 2weeks ago! was about a foot up on these playpark things and went straight over...the bike then followed and thumped me after, was called the elephant man at work for a week! blood and bruising everywhere... happens when the rear wheel isnt quite on the ledge (in this case that block). nothing to do with brake/tyre slipping in my opinion, he was about to kick forward so the brake had been released anyway.

water bleed (done in a bath to ensure its perfect) nice grind the echo sl lever (i love it) magura braided hose rockman blues in cnc backings pads perfectly lined up in setup making sure your lever body is in the right place on the bar and at the right angle...small changes can make a world of difference *edit - and my rear brake is amazing, complete confidence in it

haha, thanks for the support with my initial reply post... a few extra bits...when you get pedal kicks, or rear wheel hops in general sorted look first into doing the following perhaps: - holding the bike on the edge of the gap (ie - where youd be before you jump). being able to hold it there, making adjustment hops or small pedal rotations to roll forwards/backwards. when you get to an edge, you dont want to feel rushed into doing the jump (see the secong video again). you want to compose yourself and be in a position to bail if necessary. - with the landing, try landing to rear and staying on it, in position to pedal kick again. when you come to going larger you will want to be in control of the landing, alot of lines may not even give you the space to let the front drop. - (something i found) dont rush the movement! let me try to explain that. i was finding that when i was gapping bigger, i was inadvertantly snatching and the whole movement was jerking and didnt flow. making an effort to slow things down, helped a huge amount. i think the reason behind this is that sharp explosive movements just make any flaws in technique even bigger. - think about what yorue trying to do....jump far, you want to get height and distance at the same time. dont forget the height element! - relax, let the front drop naturally and try and make the move flow. try not to do the move with legs stiff and straight...its a whole body movement, not just a kick - one little add-on....i found that making sure the bars came to my waist mid gap helped quite a bit, may just be me!

I know its hard...but really (in my opinion) you should be focusing on your pedal kicks and getting comfortable with those rather than working on distance. The second video in that post is a pretty good example of why! pushing yourself too much can make you much more prone to accident, or developing bad habits in your technique that may be harder to fix later down the line...Longer gapping comes with time, just enjoy riding and put away the tape measure

thats soooo 2009, get with it http://bmxcolor.narod.ru/main.html