trev

Bring Up My Post

thats what trials is missing today, more incentive to get your moves dialled. bring back the dead fish.

tarty bikes used to have a try-all ankle protector which I can't find on their site. I use them because I hit my ankles on the chainstays. the protection is more on the inside and outside of the ankle so may not help you but they do wrap around the back and the material is pretty thick. it may be worth contacting tarty bikes to see if they still have them.

nice riding intermediate this year then?

just built up a genesis frame with parts aquired from the forum (thanks everyone) and from my old MAD phase. so far so good. as said above rear braking is stiff enough so you don't need a booster. The whole frame seems robust but light with good angles. definitly more a comp frame. only had it up and running for and week the only issue i have had is that the bolts for tensioning the chain are a bit short but this is down to an old chain which is the next upgrade. otherwise can't fault it.

glass sucks go for the marathons plus, its a commuting bike, you don't want to be faffing around fixing it. they're not that slow.

errr what a spoke tensioner?

I have run a double wheeled sprung tensioner. the double lets you wrap more chain around the sprocket. i think tarty suggest you go double under a certain size sprocket but can't find advice on their site. it seems to me that a sprung tensioner will always keep the tension even when taking big hits. the tensioner i had was a bit of a faff to set up but it worked. if you have a rear mech kicking about you can use that. use a length of spoke / cable in the mechs cable guide/ securing bolt to adjust the chain line and get it right under the chainstay. i think french max was running a set up like this last year at fort william.

Cheers got the chain on with some slack which has been taken up but the screw tensioners though it has used almost all of the screw. Chain line isn't to bad just not perfect. I have a spacer on the rear hub that pushes the sprocket out a bit. Think I will go with it and see how it rides.

Hi Two Questions. I have a stock bike with horizontal drops outs. The gearing is 18 tooth front and 15 tooth back. What is the best way to measure the chain length? Should I measure it tight and hope that there is some slack once joined or measure it loose and take up loads of slack. Also the chain line isn't great. The crank (freewheel) end sits further out than the back (new cranks old isis BB). would you put spacers on the front or rear? Thanks

what are the pedal threads like? is the pedal axle bent? have you smashed the pedal hard when riding? make sure there is a washer between the pedal and crank arm. had the same crank thread problem on a mouintain bike. was a result of smashing the pedal into a rock at speed.

Green = extremely easy , mom dad and the kids on a tag along Blue = easy, smooth surface though some more recent ones can be nailed at full speed, with small berms and rollers. no drops, roots or rocks red= moderate, everything can be rolled at slow speed but at high speed you can get some air with table tops, jumps and drops. expect some roots and rocks mid trail. medium length (up to 15 to 20k) Black = hard to extreme, bigger drops, rocks roots. more of a natural feel. some are very long and demanding (glentress), some are very technical (wolftrax) where trials skills come in handy. Orange = can generally be rolled at slow speed but are designed with big berms , jumps and table tops. The thing about trail centers is that on any given trail colour once you have ridden a section of it you will know what level of skill you need. You are not going to come across anything more difficult on that trail. Whereas Natural trails will throw all sorts of obstacles at you so you need to be more on your game.

why do people ask these questions?? its never too late to start anything. Started two years ago, now 41. Still suck but have gotten better and hope to get even better. No doubt its easier to start a young age - no kids, no job, mom makes your tea and does your washing etc. As others said its about having fun. and it keeps you away from the woman you already have!

Maybe being stupid but I can't leave feedback for members on this site I am Logged in, go to member page, go to feedback, click on appropriate field, add link to topic and leave comment. But no joy. always get message saying can't leave feedback what goes?

spray on silicone will clean and make the frame shiny, it will help keep off the mud for a couple of rides, just make sure you keep it away from bearing and braking surfaces. Pro downhillers use this on wet courses. have tried car pollish on the mountain bike. it does similar to silicone but more hassle to put on

enjoyed the riding. nice timber frame barn.

Must be so annoying when you're there all smashed up, all you want to do is get sorted out and carted off to hospital, and the ambulance guy you're speaking to is getting fussy about exactly what you were doing and trying to clarify exactly how you ended up falling off. Seems a bit pointless, especially bearing in mind how potentially serious his injuries could've been. Dude, Those paramedics did exactly what they should have done. You may have found it annoying, but they need to find out exactly what happened because the obvious injuries may be masking more serious injuries. Most on this forum will have seen the footage of Chris' fall months ago and are aware of the outcome of his injuries but as the first medical professional on scene the paramedics understanding of the accident and the mechanism of injury has a huge bearing on the future health of the patient. If they don't know whats going on they can't treat Chris properly and could potentially cause more damage. It has nothing to do with covering their ass, it's called doing their job properly. Anyway enough ranting. Glad to see Chris on the mend, in my opinion he is by far the most innovative, skillful and entertaining rider out there. I was gutted when I heard about his fall and have missed seeing new videos this summer. Get well soon.

Dan Do you still have the maggy brake pads and citrus green ones for sale? Can you bring them tomorrow if you do. Ta Trev

More efficient and direct power. If the freewheel is on the back the power from the cranks has to be transmitted through the chain to the freewheel which then has to engage to drive the wheel. It might seem minor but every bit of power / efficiency saving makes a difference.

try adding another small spacer on the fork steerer (over or under the bars). if there is not enough room between the top cap and the top of the fork steerer you will get play even though it seems that there should be enough room to tighten it all the way.

I've got the days booked off so barring disaster..... Tell the other oldie theres no better time to start. will get the entry form off soon. Still two days?

Too many things to do and not enough annual leave from work to allow me to do them so can't make it.

Figure out which foot is best and stick with it but is worth practicing with the other now and again particularily for comp riding as you never know when you may need to go with the weaker foot. JD and Toiz you gents need your own thread and possibly some counciling to sort out your differences

41 and i know i'm not the oldest. wish i had started when i was 23! i would gladly send my wife around she's 45.

Phone Tarty Bikes they ususally seem to know what fits what bike...... or get a ruler.